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FORBIDDEN 
PAWS 

in the 

Land/Og 



The Otherwise Man 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Cliap._^_-. Copyright No. 

Shelf-IP:.^ 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



Forbidden 


Paths 


in the 




Land of 


Og 



A Record of the Travels of Three 
Wise and Otherwise Men to 
the East of the Jordan River 



BY THE 

OTHERWISE MAN 



7 




VTTA I r LUX 



New York Chicago Toronto 

Fleming H. Revell Company 

Publishers of Evangelical Literature 



| ' V.. 1 ...ni. r;,. f.Q | 

j OCT 8 1900 

r/l3C0 

StO'M! 1 Cfil»V. / 
OROfc« 0'ViSIOK, 



Copyright, 1900 
by 

FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY 



1Fn flfoemortam 
Tb ONE 

WHOSE KINDLY WORD OF HELPFUL COMMENT HAD 
LEFT ITS IMPRESS ON THESE PAGES 
ERE SHE PASSED BEYOND 

THIS LITTLE BOOK 
IS DEDICATED 



Preface 



Palestine is a much-travelled land. During 
the spring months the roads between Jerusalem 
and Damascus are dotted with white tents, and 
the pavements of her historic towns resound 
with the ring of the horses' hoofs. 

But the East-Jordan region is seldom visited 
for various reasons. The government is chary 
of giving permission; the springtime is unfa- 
vorable; the tourist has no leisure for such a trip. 

Hence it was accounted a rare privilege, when 
three missionaries could leave their respective 
fields of labor and journey together in the au- 
tumn time to the lands east of the sacred river. 

If this simple record of their travels may find 
interested readers in the hands of its friends, 
and afford them an hour's glimpse into those 
historic regions, its mission will have been ac- 
complished. 

May the enjoyment of the trip at second-hand 
be as great as the pleasure experienced in the real 
tour in The Land of Og. 

The Otherwise Man. 

At Home in Syria, Sept. 30, iSgg. 

7 



Contents 

chap. page 

Whittier's " Palestine " 13 

Introduction— Concerning Og 15 

I. Plans and Preparations 17 

II. Introductions by the Way 24 

III. A Sabbath Day's Journey 35 

IV. « The Kingdoms of this World " 43 

V. Geographical 50 

VI. A Bedawy Prince at Home 60 

VII. Golan, the City of Refuge 72 

VIII. Maneuvering 83 

IX. A Memorable Ridge 96 

X. Gadara, the City of Tombs 103 

XI. A Sabbath Beside Galilee 112 

XII. A Prophecy and a Fulfillment 124 

XIII. The Oaks of Bash an- 139 

XIV. Camp and Castle 153 

XV. A Halt at Mizpah 164 

XVI. Jerash, the Magnificent City 176 

XVII. A Grewsome Bedchamber 191 

XVIII. A Quest for Water 199 

XIX. The Ford of the Jordan 213 

XX. Bethshan and the Ignominy of Saul . . . .226 

XXI. The End of the Journey 237 

Conclusion— Contrasts and Hopes 244 

9 



List of Illustrations 



i « 



Jordan River Frontispiece 

FACING PAGES 

The Cook "En Route" 

The Cook at Work 

Public Weigher 

Threshing the Wheat 

Women at the Mill 

A Load of Water 

Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee- 112 

Village at Migdel 114 

Arab Woman and Child (-146 

Eastern Embrace \ 

A Crusader's Castle 154 

Modern Jerash Across the Stream .... 180 
Southern End of Colonnade Avenue . . . 

The Forum at Jerash 

Bedouins at Dinner , 2 ^ 8 

Midianitish Cameleers . 

Village School 

Fishing Boats on Sea of Galilee .... 



J. 184 

( 
i 



Palestine 



Blest land of Judea ! thrice hallow'd of song, 
Where the holiest of memories pilgrim-like throng ; 
In the shade of thy palms, by the shores of thy sea, 
On the hills of thy beauty, my heart is with thee. 

"With the eye of a spirit I look on that shore, 
Where pilgrim and prophet have linger'd before ; 
With the glide of a spirit I traverse the sod 
Made bright by the steps of the angels of God. 

Blue sea of the hills ! in my spirit I hear 
Thy waters, Gennesaret, chime on my ear ; 
Where the Lowly and Just with the people sat down, 
And thy spray on the dust of his sandals was thrown. 

Beyond are Bethulia's mountains of green, 
And the desolate hills of the wild Gadarene ; 
And I pause on the goat-crags of Tabor to see 
The gleam of thy waters, O dark Galilee ! 

I tread where the twelve in their wayfaring trod ; 

I stand where they stood with the chosen of God — 

Where His blessings were heard, and His lessons were taught, 

Where the blind were restored, and the healing was wrought. 

O, here with His flock the sad Wanderer came — 
These hills He toil'd over in grief, are the same — 
The founts where He drank by the way-side still flow, 
And the same airs are blowing which breathed on His brow. 



13 



Palestine 



But wherefore this dream of the earthly abode 
Of humanity clothed in the likeness of God ? 
Were my spirit but turn'd from the outward and dim, 
It would gaze, even now, on the presence of Him ! 

Not in clouds and in terrors, but gentle as when, 

In love and in meekness, He moved among men ; 

And the voice which breathed peace to the waves of the sea, 

In the hush of my spirit would whisper to me ! 

And what if my feet may not tread where He stood, 
Nor my ears hear the dashing of Galilee's flood, 
Nor my eyes see the cross which He bow'd him to bear, 
Nor my knees press Gethsemane's garden of prayer. 

Yet, Loved of the Father, thy Spirit is near 
To the meek, and the lowly, and penitent here ; 
And the voice of thy love is the same even now, 
As at Bethany's tomb, or on Olivet's brow. 

O, the outward hath gone ! — but, in glory and power, 
The Spirit surviveth the things of an hour ; 
Unchanged, undecaying, its Pentecost flame 
On the heart's secret altar is burning the same J 

— Whittier. 



14 



Introduction 



Concerning Og 

Everyone knows, of course, about Og, the 
giant king of Moses' day, whose bedstead was so 
large that it was worthy of mention in the sacred 
record, and was taken as a captured curiosity to 
the land of the Ammonites. 1 

But our present interest in Og centres not so 
much in the size of the man and the peculiarities 
of his furniture, as in one or two facts of 
geographical and historical import, which serve 
to give the name of the giant monarch prominent 
mention in the volume in hand. 

In the first place, the kingdom of Bashan, over 
which he ruled, was largely coextensive with the 
territory traversed by the three tourists, whose 
pilgrimage forms the subject of the present dis- 
sertation. 

Secondly, Og's trait of exclusiveness, mani- 
fested specially in his unwillingness to permit the 
passage of the Israelites through his territory, has 
been transmitted to his successors in power, with 
the result herein narrated. 

In a word, it may be said that King Og was 
the creature of circumstances. Bashan and the 

1 Dent iii. n. 
15 



Introduction 



children of Israel rescued his name from the 
ignominy of oblivion. Had he been the monarch 
of Cathay, he would never have found a place in 
the sacred book. And had the Israelites not 
essayed a peaceful passage through the East- 
Jordan territory, the name of Og would not have 
appeared on the present page. 

It was his good fortune to rule over a wide 
and densely-populated region, remarkable for the 
variety of its natural features and the unparalleled 
fertility of its soil. Nor has the land of Bashan 
ceased to be an attractive district to all classes of 
foreigners, from the time when the Israelites 
wrested it from Og's hands, to the present day 
of peaceful invasions by well-intentioned tourists. 
The land of Og possesses a peculiar interest for 
the student of the Bible, even though its giant 
ruler has perished, and the only evidences of 
Israel's possession are the curious stone-heaps, 
known as "the tombs of the children of Israel." 
Bashan no longer teems with a vast population, 
nor would its inhabitants intimidate an invading 
army. The natural and historical attractions, 
however, remain the same, and tempted the 
herein-mentioned travellers to brave the interdic- 
tions of Og's successors and journey in the trans- 
Jordanic country. 



16 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



I 

PLANS AND PREPARATIONS 

Travelling in Bashan may be likened to a trip 
by rail from New York to Chicago in that it dif- 
fers from it in every particular. One advantage 
of the former is the absence of "stuffy " coaches, 
— abundance of ventilation, especially on cold 
and rainy nights. Other advantages are not so 
apparent. Possibly the avoidance of porters' fees 
at first-class hotels might be mentioned; but that 
necessarily argues the non-existence of the hotels. 
The trip by rail may be planned and executed in 
a short space of time and with a minimum of 
mental energy. A tour in Bashan requires hope 
for its inception, experience for its preparation, 
patience for its management, time for its comple- 
tion. 

Indeed, it may be truthfully said that the 
journey herein described had its beginning in 

17 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

hopes, rather than in expectations. Every mis- 
sionary in Syria probably hopes that he may cross 
the Jordan (speaking literally as well as meta- 
phorically) and visit the land of Gilead and 
Bashan. Few, however, see their hopes realized. 
It was a happy concurrence of circumstances that 
enabled not only one, but three missionaries 
actually to carry out plans which had been 
formulated fully three months before. 

At first it was treated as a mere delightful 
project; then plans of missionary work were laid 
with an ample hiatus from the middle of October 
and onward. Later on, as the expedition looked 
more and more feasible, the question of an 
itinerary was broached, and desirable points of 
interest settled upon. Now plans and counter- 
plans passed back and forth, the possibilities and 
actualities of camp outfit, provisions and the like 
were docketed and checked off; and when the 
date was set, there followed an interval of sus- 
pense. What innumerable hindrances might arise 
to thwart all plans! 

For a missionary may not order his affairs with 
the precision of a bank clerk. His services are 
"pro bono publico," and noteworthy is this in- 
genuity displayed by his " public " in introduc- 
ing into the sphere of his activities all classes and 

18 



Plans and Preparations 

descriptions of duties;— theological, educational, 
pastoral, political, financial, medical, practical; — 
duties to the young, duties to the old; duties to 
the living, duties to the dead ; duties to the rich, 
duties to the poor; duties to the learned, duties 
to the ignorant; duties to the single, who wish to 
be married; duties to the married, who wish to 
be single. Indeed, it is well if, in the multiplicity 
of varied duties, he keep ever uppermost his 
chief vocation, and say with Paul, "I am made 
all things to all men, that I might by all means 
save some." 

The bearing of this disquisition upon the ques- 
tion in hand is that a funeral, or a new school, or 
a fallen wall, or a church quarrel, or a sick child, 
might have caused irreparable delay to any one of 
the three. 

In fact, one circumstance did arise, which at 
the time somewhat dampened the ardor of the 
would-be tourists. It was a governmental matter. 
Tis a queer coincidence that the Turkish govern- 
ment is quite as unwilling to open the doors of 
Bashan's hospitality to foreigners, as were Sihon 
and Og in their day to grant leave of passage to 
Moses and Joshua and Hur. He who wears a 
hat is viewed with the eye of suspicion and dis- 
trust by officials and dwellers in those inland re- 

19 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

gions. Permissions are rarely granted to intend- 
ing tourists, and recent cases have occurred 
where travellers were turned back, or kept wait- 
ing on the borders for the proper papers, until 
time and patience were exhausted. 

Knowing this full well, the plars of the present 
party had not included an application to the gov- 
ernment; but by some fortuitous circumstance 
such application was made through the Consulate 
to the Governor-General of the Dair ascus Wilayet, 
with the result that a most courteous answer was 
returned, stating that a request ha i been sent to 
Constantinople for an Imperial Iraie! 

Three unoffending American missionaries, with 
no possible ulterior motive, must await the pleas- 
ure of his Ottomanic majesty to investigate the 
import and consequences of this highly important 
political move, and grant his sovereign permission 
for a three-weeks' tour in this part of his domain! 
But the result was a foregone certainty. Con- 
stantinople, if need be, is at the ends of the earth. 
As well might one have established telepathic 
communication with Og himself, and gained 
possession of that monarch's (presumably) gi- 
gantic seal-ring, whereby to make legal the intru- 
sion into his territory. 

There is a useful Arabic proverb to the effect 

20 



Plans and Preparations 

that " every act accomplished is lawful, and every 
act discussed is forbidden." It is not a bad prov- 
erb in its practical workings. The proposal to 
apply it to the present emergency met with 
unanimous approval. According to agreement, 
therefore, on a Friday afternoon late in October, 
the three parties to this clandestine expedition 
met at Judeideh, near Mount Hermon, each from 
a different mission station, and all realizing the 
nature of the undertaking. Suffice it to say that 
"roughing it" must be the general order for the 
day. Not even "the king's highway " 1 appears 
to solace the weary traveller. Nor may he call for 
many "extras" of any kind with hopes of suc- 
cess in obtaining them. 

True, the " Cook's Personally Conducted " may 
pay his ten dollars a day, and expect to travel 
with considerable luxury on the well-beaten routes 
west of Jordan. But, withal, the "Personally 
Conducted " is an object of pity. He belongs to 
his dragoman, and must accept his statements as 
the quintessence of veracity ; he is beset by im- 
pertinent beggars; his "mount" maybe the first 
or the worst in his experience; he knows no 
Arabic (except a few "swear-words" in general 
use by muleteers). And think what he misses! 

1 Num. xxi. 22. 
21 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

All previous knowledge of the Arab and his ways; 
the relative value of money (an important item to 
the average missionary); one's own well-tried 
horse; intimidation of saucy urchins; knowledge 
of the language; choice of routes in detail; ex- 
hilarating experiences in new roads; privilege of 
freeing one's mind to the muleteers and cook, as 
occasion warrants or demands ; not to mention the 
genuine pleasure in "setting up camp," — build- 
ing a house in a new place every day. Yes, the 
missionary has the advantage, provided he makes 
use of it in the right way. 

The party under discussion believe that they 
did proceed according to approved principles. 
Perhaps a recital of necessary preparations might 
suggest work rather than recreation. But what is 
work to one may be relaxation to another. It is 
undeniable that the " impedimenta " in such an ex- 
pedition are numerous and varied. The rendez- 
vous that Friday afternoon was well-filled with 
the evidences of contemplated travel, audible as 
well as otherwise. Donkeys, dogs and men (and 
women, too) furnished the noise; boxes, bundles 
and bales, the substantiate. 

First, there were the tents with full quota of 
ropes and pegs, and a generous flag to top them 

all and display the stars and stripes. Folding 

22 



Plans and Preparations 

beds and plenty of bedding must go along, for 
good sleep is better than a tonic. The table with 
all its equipments; pots, kettles and kitchen outfit, 
suggest the necessity of food. Hence bags of 
many sizes found a place in the loads, filled with 
cereals, salt, sugar and the like. A whole box 
was devoted to cans, — cans of beef, cans of fish, 
cans of corn, cans of peas, cans large, cans small, 
cans short, cans tall. Bashan boasts no grocery 
and meat shops. Then the lights, — lanterns, can- 
dles and matches; rubber goods for possible 
rain; Bibles, guide-books, maps and papers; tools 
and medicines; toilet and personal articles of 
wear, including a laundered shirt against the time 
of a return to "civilization." 

And last of all was a bag, furnished and filled 
by the senior member of the party, whose motley 
contents eked out the wants of every department 
of camp life with a cheerful disregard for the pro- 
prieties of affinity and aesthetic assortment. 



23 



II 



INTRODUCTIONS BY THE WAY 

The early dawn of Saturday witnessed a busy 
scene — a fitting prelude to the labors of the "first 
day out. " The heterogeneous collection of travel- 
ling effects was packed and arranged with careful 
calculation as to minimum of bulk and maximum 
of safety. Glass goods were tenderly cared for, 
and an honest attempt was made not to put the 
horses' feed-bags in the box with the rice and 
cold roast. 

When all had been arranged satisfactorily to 
the minds of the travellers, the public weigher 
was called. With his old-fashioned steelyards 
and a sturdy muleteer at each end of the pole he 
went rapidly from one bundle to another, weigh- 
ing each one. Then by a judicious combination 
of these according to weight, the loads were 
"made up" with equity and equilibrium. For 
each muleteer is obliged by contract to carry on 
his animal a maximum of sixty rattles (about 
three hundred and fifty pounds); and, unless the 
services of the weigher have been previously in- 

24 



Introductions by the Way 

voked, the ordinary muleteer easily forgets his 
knack of estimating weights. The public weigher 
nips in the bud many an incipient wordy dispute, 
which might develop into mild anarchy, if allowed 
to follow the natural course. In this country the 
tongue is mightier than the brain. 

Let us not, however, disparage the Syrian 
muleteer. He is of the utmost use to the tourist. 
He is the freight train of the land. With sur- 
prising ingenuity he assorts the most conglom- 
erate camp outfit into an exact number of loads 
to correspond to the animals engaged ; two 
heavy packs of equal weight are swung on the 
sides of each mule, and a lighter bundle is fas- 
tened in the middle (unless the calculating owner 
purposes to ride on the load over the long, weary 
stretches). And the wonder is that this is all done 
by means of but two ropes^Xo a mule load! Woe 
betide the tourist who spendeth his shekels for 
rope and bindeth his bundles therewith ! It is 
not needed ; it is extra; it disappears. 

Thus securely freighted, away goes the 
mule up hill and down dale, over rocky bridle 
paths by courtesy styled roads, fording streams 
and rivers where the water rushes madly over 
treacherous stones, yet seldom spilling his load. 
Behind him trudges the muleteer, guiding him by 

25 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

his voice, travelling hour after hour under blazing 
sun or pouring rain. He has no visible wardrobe 
other than that upon his back, and is content with 
an amount of dry bread and cheese (frequently 
carried for convenience under his arm) that would 
ill serve an American pauper. He sings as he 
goes, with hand to mouth, evolving crude, ap- 
parently inarticulate strains, in a hollow, minor 
key, that may have ''charms to sooth a savage 
breast." 

Such is the man who " moors " you for half a 
dollar a day, including mule and feed, his own 
scanty fare, and his services in setting up camp, 
watering and cleaning your horse, aiding the 
cook, and being general factotum. 

Since it is becoming that the members of the 
present company should be properly introduced, 
the muleteers may first come forward for recog- 
nition. They display all the characteristics of 
their guild, even to the immense darning needle 
visible in their headgear. This last is used both 
to baste up bundles and also to encourage lagging 
mules. Aside from differences in temper and age, 
all muleteers are alike. Their individuality yields 
to their profession. In a bargain for services the 
mules are hired, and the muleteers are treated as 
a necessary accompaniment. Hence names are 

26 



Introductions by the Way 

of little consequence. It may be interesting, how- 
ever, to note that on this occasion both Job and 
Elijah were represented by namesakes. But 
the leading characteristics of those ancient heroes 
were not confined to their successors in name. 
Each one of the expedition had opportunity to 
display something of the patience of Job and the 
sturdy courage of Elijah in the face of difficulties. 

Khaleel, the cook, deserves a special word 
of introduction. For he is a functionary 
hardly to be dispensed with. The lines by Owen 
Meredith meet with full corroboration in the daily 
experience of the tourist : 

" We may live without poetry, music and art ; 
We may live without conscience and live without heart ; 
We may live without friends ; we may live without books ; 
But civilized man cannot live without cooks." 

Now the chef of this party is assuredly an im- 
portant personage, and realizes it (far more than 
do the others). He has gotten into pantaloons 
and boots, wears a girdle and revolver, has his 
headgear arranged in true dragomanic style, and 
gives tone to the whole party. He affects a dis- 
play of fancy horsemanship upon telling occa- 
sions, and makes it his duty to repeat orders given 
to the muleteers and guides, by way of emphasis 

27 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Gg 

both to the command and to the importance of 
his position. 

His cooking, however, is not to be despised, 
considering the environment. No well-arranged 
kitchen with stove and sink and pantry close at 
hand, not even a table, can he boast. His kitchen 
is the open air ; his stove is alow, shallow trough 
of sheet iron, so arranged that pans and skillet 
may rest just above the fire of glowing charcoal in 
it. His larder is as nomadic as he, — sometimes all 
in a heap, according to the revised version of the 
rule, "a place for everything, and everything in 
that place\" sometimes scattered amongst the 
boxes in both tents. His work table is the ground 
about him, in this respect fully in accordance with 
the genius of the country in doing all work on the 
lowest possible level, either sitting with feet 
tucked under or standing in a bow-shaped, back- 
breaking position. (Brooms in this country have 
handles about six inches long ; bread is kneaded 
on a table as many inches low ; and one maid 
was heard to exclaim with delight, when a new 
hand-sewing machine appeared, " Oh, now I 
can sit on the floor and sew with it in my lap ! ") 

Add to these circumstances the fact that ready 
cash is of no avail in a district where there is 
nothing to purchase, and the wonder grows that 

28 



Introductions by the Way 

the cook is able to provide for hungry men as 
well as he does, with a handful of coals, out in 
the wilderness, under the stars. 

Perhaps a part of the secret is found in the 
abundance of fresh air and physical exercise. 
These are excellent sauce. When one is at 
home, the mind may revert to delicate puddings, 
juicy roasts and garnished side dishes. But for 
the hungry traveller, burned by the hot sun and 
dusty within and without, the evening meal, 
served in the moonlight just outside the tent, 
dispels all envious thoughts. There may be 
nothing more than a moderate supply of native 
bread and a fried egg or two, with olives and 
cheese and a possible can of salmon or beef ; — it is 
eaten with gratitude and meets the present want. 

It cannot be denied that the bill of fare does 
not undergo many variations ; canned goods play 
a large part in its make-up, and one may be par- 
doned if he think sometimes of the home with 
its well-ordered table and varied supplies. It was 
Henry Drummond who, after months of explor- 
ing in the heart of Africa, remarked in effect that 
all " tinned" goods had come to taste alike to 
him, from kippered herring and strawberry jam 
through all the steps of the tiring gamut to sar- 
dines and the like. 

29 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

A word as to the missionaries themselves. 
Please do not bring to mind, forbearing reader, 
the picture of the sedate and serious gentleman 
found on the front cover of your missionary 
magazine. Clad in flowing ministerial garb, with 
broad-brimmed hat, long white beard, an open 
book in his left hand, he is earnestly exhorting an 
all-absorbed gathering of half-clad savages, who 
have laid aside their spears and wicker shields in 
their eager desire to drink in the eloquent words 
of the preacher. No; such a picture could not 
have been realized in the present group. For 
this trio of tourists consisted of three young men, 
forgetful for the nonce of the cares and responsi- 
bilities of missionary service, from which they 
were temporarily released. They were off for a 
vacation to a part of the country seldom visited, 
and enjoyed it all the more for the added spice of 
its quasi-illegality. 

True, they had not forgotten to bring Bibles, 
nor did they fail to use them as occasion offered. 
But these weapons of peace were accompanied 
by others not so suggestive of tranquillity. Shot 
guns, revolvers, rifle and dogs were taken with 
the expectation of hunting, and for defence, if 
necessary. And why should not a missionary 
hunt, especially with the example of David before 

30 



PUBLIC WEIGHER 




THRESHING THE WHEAT 



Introductions by the Way 

him, who undoubtedly supplied his needs from 
the larder of nature. For he had fled from before 
Saul to similar regions of forest, hill and dale, and 
the adroit reference 1 to his outlawed condition 
was evidently inspired by his own experiences in 
hunting partridges, as plentiful then, as now. 
Be it said that many a partridge graced the trav- 
ellers' table in the wilderness, and the eastern 
hills yielded their choicest game to the hunters. 

Three congenial companions were they, ready 
to accept with good will every hardship, fatigue, 
or danger. One was dubbed " our aged friend," 
— an entire misnomer, save in the trifling matter of 
seniority. He was the moving spirit of the enter- 
prise, thoroughly acquainted by long experience 
with all the traits of the genus" " Arab," and a 
keen observer of every noticeable characteristic 
or peculiarity in landscape, inhabitants and build- 
ings old and new. He usually arrived first at the 
proposed camping-place, and, throwing off his 
coat, engaged in untying ropes, setting up 
tents, driving pegs, and directing operations 
generally. 

The second member of the trio was "our liter- 
ary friend," endowed with a genius for journal- 
istic effort, the statistician of the party. 

1 1 Sam. xxvi. 20. 
31 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

The " otherwise man " completed the number, 
remarkable for nothing worthy of note. 

The cavalcade, whose component elements 
have been thus introduced, was a long one in its 
entirety, as it left Judeideh on a Saturday morn- 
ing and travelled toward Hermon. Three mis- 
sionaries, four muleteers, one cook, four horses, 
four mules, two donkeys, and two dogs were 
the joint members of the expedition, each one 
indispensable in his position. 

Old Sol, jovial orb of light and heat, beamed 
benignantly upon the tourists, as they rode 
along toward the village where they were to 
spend the Sabbath. They had not far to travel, 
and had been over the road many a time. It 
had led them 'at first southward in a well- 
watered plain, by the site of old Ijon, the 
northernmost town of ancient Palestine. 1 It 
passed near Abel, once saved by a wise 
woman's advice from Joab's destructive fury. 2 
Thence it crossed one of the streams, which 
unite to form the Jordan, and over a rich, 
alluvial plain to the southern base of the noble 
Hermon range. 

The day was exceedingly hot, and the travellers 
were well-nigh overcome with thirst. Even the 

1 2 Kings xv. 29. 2 2 Sam. xx. 16-22. 

32 



Introductions by the Way 

expected cold draught from the fountain near 
the river, where they lunched, had been denied, 
by reason of a family washing in progress at the 
fountain itself, amidst the thicket of oleanders 
and low shrubs. Hence the great, gushing, ice- 
cold fountains at Banias were hailed with de- 
light. 

There is the main source of the Jordan, emerg- 
ing from the very base of snow-capped Hermon, 
out of that vast storehouse of pent-up waters, 
bubbling up into a wide stream, which connects 
as by a silvery band those two objects of sacred 
interest, — Hermon and Galilee. These waters 
gush forth from the midst of a natural amphi- 
theatre, whose towering walls are formed of 
solid rock. Leafy trees entwine their branches 
across the stream from bank to bank, and thus 
afford a shady retreat from the glowing sun. 
Such a gem of nature could not escape the eye 
of worshipping man; there are found to-day 
niches carved in the rocky walls, — a rural temple 
to the god Pan. Traces of the fact also exist in 
the name of the village, Banias, that is, Pan ias. 
But Pan is gone, leaving no blessing, unless by 
his order those springs continue to refresh thirsty 
travellers with their abundant waters, cold as 
Hermon's snows. 

33 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



Across a slope and up an opposite mountain 
side is Ain Kunyeh, almost the last outpost of the 
American mission, on the border of the Jaulan, 
the Arabs' land. There the tents were pitched, 
near a fountain, under the shade of tall poplars, 
with the flag waving proudly in the breeze. 
After supper the evening was spent with the 
Syrian friends, and all united at the close in the 
customary evening devotions. The missionaries 
gladly retired; for on the morrow they must ful- 
fill their duties as preachers of the Word. 



34 



Ill 



A SABBATH DAY'S JOURNEY 

Although missionary work is not the theme of 
this volume, it may be permissible to take one 
glimpse of a mission outpost, even though it 
involve a delay in entering the desired country. 
Being Sunday, the time is opportune both for the 
visitors and the visited. 

It was the privilege of the " otherwise man " 
to minister to the church at Mejdel, distant an 
hour and a-half from Ain Kunyeh. This was his 
second visit, made after the lapse of over five 
years. How well he recalled the first occasion ! 
He was on his " maiden Irip " in the country, in 
company with the missionary in charge of the 
district. His knowledge of the Arabic was 
extremely limited. From his gesticulations and 
frantic efforts to be intelligible, one might have 
thought him a direct arrival from the tower of 
Babel. All was new to him, at that time, — 
language, people, customs and history. He had 
already seen and heard much that was interesting, 
and Mejdel was an added chapter. He listened 

35 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

with amazement to his missionary guide as he 
unfolded to him the history of the place. 

It was made up of Christians and Druzes, 
whose lack of harmony was proverbial. Rough, 
sturdy mountaineers they were, bronzed by the 
summer sun and toughened by the winter snow; 
for Mejdel is high up on the southeastern slope 
of Hermon. Farming, grazing, robbing and 
being robbed made up the round of their life. 
Yet when the gospel reached the hearts of some 
of those uncouth robber-farmers, it transformed 
them into true and faithful followers of Christ, 
as strong and robust in their acceptance of the 
truth, as they had been before in unlawful pur- 
suits. 

The advent of the missionary and his guest on 
that summer day five years ago was an occasion 
of unusual interest to the villagers. They came 
to the schoolhouse both to converse with their 
missionary friend and counsellor, and also to see 
the newcomer. With laughable frankness the 
missionary interlarded his Arabic conversation 
with remarks in English (supposably translations 
of the conversations, but really characterizations 
of the different individuals about him), as " That 
man was once the most noted cattle thief in all 
this district"; or, "This one is the prince of 

36 



A Sabbath Day's Journey 

liars," (evidently some one in whom regeneration 
had not blossomed out into perfect fruition) ; 
and other remarks which revealed both the need 
of the pure gospel in some lives and its manifest 
work in others. Thus the time was spent that 
day, and it is a question which profited more, 
the sturdy farmers or the pupil missionary. 

Two years after this visit, occurred a general 
uprising of the Druzes in all that region. Mejdel 
and Ain Kunyeh were burned and looted and 
destruction was rife. Not that the Druzes did 
it all ; oh, no ! The Turkish soldiers, conser- 
vators of the peace and protectors of the helpless, 
took a large part in the proceedings, as only 
Turkish soldiers can do. The whole town was 
laid waste, and the Protestant church did not 
escape. The girders under the sheet-iron roof 
were badly burned and the roof was in danger 
of falling in. Complaint was made to the gov- 
ernment by the missionary in charge, and was so 
vigorously followed up that orders were sent to 
the town official (Turkish of course) to replace 
the damaged girders. He purchased the neces- 
sary lumber at a neighboring village (and never 
paid for it), and so the church and preacher's 
home were restored. 

But the poor inhabitants suffered intensely. 

37 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

The winter was upon them, and their supplies 

had all disappeared. This opportunity was 

eagerly seized by the missionaries to minister to 

their wants, both temporal and spiritual. Such 

was the ordeal of fire and sword in the Hermon 

district, which, terrible as it was, could be called 

but an echo of the fiendish work done at that 

time in Armenia. Is it any wonder that love of 

the government is notably wanting in this land ? 

Again a period of three years passed by, — years 

of toil, which served to restore the face of nature. 

This Sunday morning the missionary rode 

through the town for the second time, glad in 

the thought of meeting again some of those with 

whom he was unable to speak at the first visit. 

Now he could give them the gospel message in 

their own tongue. He had hurried away from 

camp as early as possible. Yet he arrived almost 

too late. For as he tied his horse to a native 

hand millstone (referred to by Solomon 1 and our 

Lord 2 ), he heard the Syrian preacher announce 

the text. Quietly entering the church, he took 

his seat on the floor with the worshippers. The 

preacher paused, somewhat confused, then asked 

'in broken English, "Do you like to preach?" 

The missionary stepped forward, clad in his 

lEccl. xii. 4. 2 Matt. xxiv. 41. 

38 



A Sabbath Day's Journey 

riding garb, and his homiletics likewise arrayed. 
Without wishing to forestall what might have 
been a more profitable sermon than his own, 
nevertheless he did not care to miss the oppor- 
tunity of addressing this mountain congregation. 
He read and expounded the story of Naaman, the 
Syrian, as a type of sin and its cure. It may be 
that Naaman passed through Mejdel on his 
journeys to and from Samaria ; for it is on the 
great highway to Damascus. At any rate the 
Syrian prince furnished the material for a plain 
gospel message, which was welcomed by the 
hearers that day. Thoroughly oriental was the 
scene ! The congregation to the number of 
seventy-five were seated on straw mats about 
three sides of the large, unfurnished room. The 
favored ones found physical support by leaning 
against the wall, while the rest "squatted " wher- 
ever they could find enough matted surface. The 
men occupied one side of the room, and the 
women the other, with a flaming red curtain 
hanging between. The costumes were doubtless 
in the fashion of Naaman's day. Yet that un- 
cultured audience paid excellent (and often audi- 
ble) attention, nor would the preacher have ex- 
changed pulpits with any western divine. 
After the service the rural congregation gath- 

39 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

ered in the parlor of the native helper and re- 
newed acquaintance (in Arabic) with one whom 
they had seen five years before. This visit was a 
pleasant sequel to the other, and the service ren- 
dered was a true delight to the man who hopes 
for better things. 

Discouragement found no lodgment in the 
thoughts of the "otherwise man," as he turned 
back from the delightful morning gathering. 
Even had the responsive hearers left any shade of 
doubt, surely the ride itself would have dispelled 
it all. As he checked his horse at the summit of 
a high ridge, a magnificent, suggestive view lay 
all about him. To the north, majestic Hermon 
with its hoary head stretched at great length like 
some prostrate giant. At its base were many 
villages. To the east and south the great plain 
was lost in the distance — the land of Og, pro- 
ductive Bashan. The western horizon was 
closed by the undulating line of mountain ridges 
in Naphtali and Zebulon. 

Far below, at the opening of a deep valley, 
Banias appeared,— not much in itself, but might- 
ily stirring the memory. For it is the site of 
Caesarea Philippi, one of the grandest of Roman 
cities, made sacred by the entrance of Christ, 
doubtless over the very Roman bridge that spans 

40 



A Sabbath Day's Journey 

the chasm to-day. To the right of the town, 
crowning a high spur of Hermon, are the ruins 
of a mighty Crusaders' castle, more massive than 
any other in Syria, vying with the famed Rhine 
castles of Germany. There it stands, the monu- 
ment of man's attempt to found a Christian em- 
pire by strength of arm and frowning tower. 

Another peak of Hermon, not far from the 
Roman city, looking toward the south country, 
is in all likelihood the scene of a transaction far 
surpassing the building of Crusaders' castles, 
even as God's works are grander than man's. 
There occurred the transfiguration of our Lord, 
when He ushered Moses and Elijah into His 
presence to talk with them prophetically of His 
marvellous redemptive act, — His death, that the 
world might live. In that presence how small 
appear man's mightiest works; how weak his 
strongest efforts! The divine purpose, born in 
eternity, which prompted the living gift of a 
dying Saviour, transcends in depth and breadth 
the greatest plan of mightiest earthly sovereign. 
God's purpose in redemption includes all times 
and all peoples. Nor can man tell how God may 
choose to accomplish His purpose. He called 
Abraham from Ur of the Chaldees, David from 

the sheepcote, Paul from a rabbi's seat, to be-r 
41 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

come instruments in His hand, that His majesty 
might be revealed, His kingdom triumph, and 
Jesus reign forever and ever. 

The preacher might return to camp confident 
that God's all-embracing purpose had included 
his sincere effort to aid and cheer the little 
church at Mejdel. His "Sabbath Day's Journey " 
was but a part of a larger plan. 

" Nothing useless is, or low ; 

Each thing in its place is best ; 
And what seems but idle show 
Strengthens and supports the rest." 

— Longfellow, 



42 



IV 



"THE KINGDOMS OF THIS WORLD " 

The Holy Land is preeminently a historical 
country. It lives in memories of other days. In 
order to follow with interest the record of any 
section of the land, it is quite essential to grasp 
the outlines of the country's progress as a whole. 
A brief historical summary may therefore be 
here inserted as a slight aid in unravelling the 
tangled lines of world-power which have been 
perplexingly mingled in this little strip of sea- 
coast. 

If one might take his stand upon some lofty 
mountain-top, and call in review before him the 
various peoples and nations that have entered 
and held this land, how many would they be, 
and how diverse the civilizations ! Palestine and 
Syria are the battlefield of the ages. How many 
pages of the sacred history are stained by the 
record of war and bloodshed! 

When the Israelites came up from Egypt to 
possess the Promised Land, they found it already 

43 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



occupied by many tribes, 1 some strong and others 
weak; 2 some bound together by loose ties of 
alliance and federation; 3 all idol-worshippers* 
and enemies of the one God. Their spies, by 
describing the characteristics of the West-jordan 
nations, early frightened them into abandoning 
the original intention of going directly up by 
Hebron and Jerusalem. Therefore they received 
long punishment for their cowardice and hard- 
ness of heart. When they had finished their 
wanderings in the wilderness, then they at- 
tempted to encircle the Dead Sea and peaceably 
pass through the East-Jordan countries, unmo- 
lesting and unmolested. They even asked for- 
mal permission 5 of Sihon, king of the Amorites, 
whose kingdom joined Bashan on the south. 
But Sihon looked with disfavor upon such a 
wholesale permission, — the passage of hundreds 
of thousands of men, women and children, to- 
gether with vast numbers of animals of all kinds. 
Such a host would drain the resources of the 
land. So he refused, and consequently God 
gave to His children a victorious passage. When 
Israel had conquered Sihon, then they came on to 
Bashan. 

1 Gen. xv. 19-21 ; Ex. iii. 8. 2 Judges i. 7. 

3 Josh. ix. 2. * Deut. vi. 14. 5 Deut. ii. 26-29. 

44 



The Kingdoms of this World" 



Og, who had reigned undisturbed heretofore, 
was not dismayed by the advance of this pecul- 
iar people, travelling from Egypt in a motley cara- 
van. He " went out against them, he and all his 
people, to the battle at Edrei." 1 But he failed to 
realize that God, the King of kings, was fighting 
Israel's battles. He met utter defeat, and was 
slain, with his sons and all his people; and the 
Israelites "possessed his land." 2 Thus waned 
the star of his power; his country was given to 
aliens; Bashan was allotted to the half tribe of 
Manasseh; the one-time land of Og became a 
Jewish possession, and shared with the rest of 
Palestine the vicissitudes of war and empire. 

After the children of Israel became established 
in the land, there ensued a long and stormy 
period under the judges. Then the monarchy 
was established and lasted undivided for three 
generations, when ten tribes separated from two 
and established the northern kingdom. After this 
came a period of retrogression, until the Assyr- 
ians burst upon them and eventually carried cap- 
tive the whole land. Never was such a com- 
plete destruction known! The kingdom of Israel 
was fairly blotted out! The tramp of the east- 
ern armies resounded throughout Bashan in all 

1 Num. xxi. 33. 2 Num. xxi. 35. 

45 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

its length and breadth, and Jordan's fords were 
crossed by myriads of the Assyrian host. Da- 
mascus fell into the hands of Tiglath-Pileser, 1 
and the whole East-Jordan country was stripped 
from its Jewish possessors and became an Assyr- 
ian province. 2 Sargon later completed the devas- 
tation, and the kingdom of Israel ended igno- 
miniously. 

Nor did the kingdom of Judah fare better. 
Nebuchadnezzar, the mighty Babylonian king, 
destroyed Jerusalem and carried the people into 
captivity. 8 

Three hundred years before Christ another and 
a distant power entered the country. Alexander 
the Great, of Macedonia, carried his conquests 
over all known seas and lands, and the traces of 
that Grecian civilization are scattered through- 
out Syria. Massive old theatres, stately temples, 
inscriptions and coins, show that the people 
became thoroughly imbued with the Grecian cul- 
ture. Even the Greek language in a measure 
supplanted the Hebrew and later Aramaic. 

But this Hellenistic tendency eventually aroused 
the warlike spirit in the loyal Jews, and the noted 
Asmonean family of the Maccabees restored to 
the nation something of its former power. 

» 2 Kings xvi. 9. 2 1 Chron. v. 26. 3 2 Kings xxiv. 14. 
46 



"The Kingdoms of this World" 

Yet not for long. After b. c. 63 the formi- 
dable Roman influence was felt in the land, and 
Syria became a Roman province under the rule 
of the Idumean Herods. Roman architecture 
prevailed; Roman roads overspread the country 
like a net; Roman law and justice were felt; 
Roman geography made new divisions in the 
land; Roman armies razed Jerusalem to the 
ground. 

After Constantine had transferred the Roman 
capital to Constantinople, Syria remained under 
the power of the Byzantine rulers, until the be- 
ginning of the seventh century. Then Chosroes 
II., king of Persia, took possession for an inter- 
val of ten years, only to be driven back by 
Heraclius, the Byzantine. 

His reign, however, marked the rise of a new 
power in Syria. The nomadic Arab tribes, which 
had always wandered more or less over Syria, 
and were always a menace to Byzantine rule, had 
already occupied the Hauran. Now, under Mo- 
hammed's unifying influence, this rapidly-rising 
power seized all the land, capturing Damascus 
and Jerusalem in rapid succession. They swept 
all before them, until their dominion extended 
from Egypt to the Bosphorus. 

After a rule of more than four hundred years, 

47 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

by no means free from strife and bloodshed, the 
Saracenic power was checked and well-nigh 
overthrown by the advance of those half-reli- 
gious, half-adventurous armies, — the Crusaders. 
In 1099 Jerusalem was wrested from the grasp 
of the infidel, and all Syria became a battlefield. 
Castles were built, of massive proportions, on 
almost inaccessible heights, — huge watch-towers 
of Christianity. The Orders of the Knights of 
St. John and of the Templars were formed, and 
the Holy Land was held with varying success for 
two hundred years, until Acre, the last foothold, 
was surrendered to the Moslems. 

During all those years great changes appeared 
in the Islamic power itself. Arabs were suc- 
ceeded by Turks; the Tartars pressed upon the 
Carismean Mohammedans, who for a time held 
the Holy City; the Mamelukes of Egypt were 
instrumental in the final overthrow of the Cru- 
saders; and finally, in 15 16, the Othmanic Turks 
gained the supremacy, which they have held ever 
since. 

In the year 1799 Napoleon entered the country 
and fought his way as far as Nazareth and Safed. 
Nor has the present century been a quiet one. 
Religious sects have warred with one another, 
and the great uprising of i860 was the cause of 

48 



"The Kingdoms of this World" 

European intervention and the establishment of 
the Lebanon government under a Christian Pasha. 

Such, in brief synopsis, is the record of four 
thousand years of world-power in Syria. Can 
any other country show such a continual permu- 
tation of rulers, peoples and civilizations! King- 
doms have waxed and waned, religions have 
been born and passed away, armies have trav- 
ersed the land, and every nation has coveted this 
little strip of country, the door of the East. War 
and bloodshed, slavery and death, have marked 
the passing years, until the wonder is that the 
land of Palestine was ever chosen as the cradle 
of the true religion and the birthplace of the 
Prince of Peace. 

Yet this very perplexity of historical data has 
invested the Holy Land with surpassing interest 
to the student of history, sacred and secular. 
The traveller's efforts, however trying they may 
be, are rewarded in ample manner. Wherever 
he goes, east or west of the Jordan, he treads 
historic ground. The land of Og yields a plenti- 
ful harvest, and a few handfuls have been gleaned 
here and there, and gathered into the pages of 
this little book, not in regular order, only to whet 
the appetite for larger and fuller supplies found 
elsewhere. 

49 



CHAPTER V 



GEOGRAPHICAL 

Geography is not one of the exact sciences. It 
is as variable as history itself. The kaleidoscope 
of events noted in the preceding chapter had its 
due effect upon the geographical nomenclature 
of the Holy Land. It is the purpose of this 
chapter to mention some of the changes which 
occurred, and to outline the geographical condi- 
tions of the trans-Jordanic country at some of the 
most important periods of its history, beginning 
at the time of Og himself. 

The kingdom over which Og ruled, was in 
general known as Bashan, though this name in 
some places in the sacred geography sinks to the 
level of a section of the whole kingdom, coordi- 
nate with Argob and Gilead. 

It is difficult to define exactly the boundaries of 
Bashan, for the references in the Old Testament 
are somewhat indefinite. From the investiga- 
tions of Robinson, Schumacher, Merrill and 
others, it is fairly well ascertained that Bashan ex- 
tended from the Jordan river eastward for fifty 

50 



A Bedawy Prince at Home 

of the mental acumen required to compute the 
value of seven twenty-fourths of a horse ! 

Yet this is no stranger than many other customs. 
For example, counting is always done by pairs. 
The shepherd counts his sheep thus. When the 
maid counts the loaves of native bread, the result 
is announced as so many pairs and a single one 
(if one is left over). Even gold pieces are thus 
counted! The Arabic is read and written from 
right to left ; a line of manuscript is even at the 
top, and hence words and phrases are imDERScored 
above. Twelve o'clock is at sunset ; 5 is 0, and 
o is a period. " Sun " is feminine, " moon " mas- 
culine ; the orator begins, "Gentlemen and 
ladies." Locks are generally upside down ; the 
hands are washed after eating ; the carpenter 
saws away from the body ; in building a 
tire the twigs and chips are placed on top of the 
charcoal ; in hot weather the head is wrapped in 
a shawl ; the father is known by the name of his 
eldest son. 

The Arab tribes are Moslem, though they are 
not so strict as their city co-religionists. Perhaps 
they pray, but certainly not so regularly as the 
Koran prescribes. Nor does their religion in the 
least interfere with business. A horse "deal" 
the world over carries with it the aroma of dis- 

67 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

honesty. Even the Arab hospitality is in some 
points subject to criticism. To use a figure of 
civilized speech, it might be termed "silver 
plated." For when a feast is prepared, the great 
heap of food is so arranged, that the first to be 
served eat from the outside of the small mountain 
of rice, and when they have finished, lo, the rice] 
has disappeared, and under it is a mass of boiled 
wheat, the common food of the peasantry ! 

Their coffee, however, is the genuine article, — 
no chicory berry in it, — pure Mocha, prepared in 
the presence of the guests, from the first process 
of browning it. This is done by placing a hand- 
ful of the green coffee in an immense iron spoon 
with long handle, and holding it over the glow- 
ing coals. Next it is pounded in a wooden mor- 
tar with a wooden pestle to a rythmical cadence 
not unpleasant in its variations, which is produced 
by certain dextrous taps upon the side of the 
mortar, as the pestle is withdrawn to be poised 
in the air for another descent upon the amber, 
redolent berries. After it has been transferred to 
a curious long-handled, long-nosed, brazen coffee- 
pot, it boils briskly for a time, and then a sip of 
the dark fluid is poured into dainty cups and 
these presented to the guests. The host also 
partakes, as a token of benevolent intentions, or, 



A Bedawy Prince at Home 

at least negatively, to prove the absence of poison 
in the drink. 1 After this preliminary trial, the 
cups are later filled with the dark, bitter coffee, 
and the guest is expected to drink it all. 

He who drinks coffee, or a cup of milk, 
or eats a morsel at the tent of the sheikh, is 
thereupon under his protection; nor is it etiquette 
to ask as to the business or objective point of 
the wayfarer, until after the lapse of three days. 
During that time he may eat and sleep as freely 
as if he were in his native village, and no ques- 
tions asked. That is Arab hospitality, in a land 
where the screech of the lightning express is 
unheard and unknown, and the voice of the 
hotel runner is still. Oriental hospitality requires 
time and patience, two commodities abundantly 
bestowed upon the easy-going Arabs. 

The travellers were not privileged to test these 
virtues to their full extent, because the itinerary 
included but an hour's stop at the encampment. 
However, an hour was quite sufficient to afford 
a view of Arab tent life. True, a poetic glamour 
overspreads this mode of existence. Novelists 

1 As corroborative evidence it has been noticed that the 
servant in receiving back the cup from the guest quickly places 
his hand over it with averted face, that he may not see whether 
any of the guests have suspiciously refrained from tasting the 
coffee. 

69 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

and poets have vied with one another in invest- 
ing these black tents and their swarthy occupants 
with the romance of idealism. But the fact 
remains that the tents are hot in summer, cold in 
winter, wet in rainy weather, uninviting at their 
best. The possibilities in the culinary depart- 
ment are meagre in the extreme, with no further 
variety than what rice, wheat and milk can 
afford. In the matter of dress they practice the 
extreme of simplicity, both in quantity, quality 
and style. Feminine rivalries in this direction 
are unknown. The only indulgence in ornamen- 
tation is in tatooing and in the use of blue-glass 
nose-jewels much in vogue. 

The sameness of their life would be appalling 
to a nervous westerner. No perceptible business, 
no newspapers, no social functions, no literary 
and musical clubs, no market reports, no football 
games, no elections! In such circumstances a 
little guerilla warfare would be welcome and a 
funeral would be a boon. Indeed, the latter is 
highly prized by townspeople as a choice occasion 
for social intercourse. One woman was heard to 
remark enthusiastically, after attending a funeral, 
" I enjoyed it very much! " 

The three tourists left the encampment of the 
noble Arab el Fudl, in nowise inclined to prolong 

70 



A Bedawy Prince at Home 

their visit, yet thankful for this opportunity to 
see an Arab prince and his home. They moved 
on for three hours more, the stony monotony of 
their road relieved only by an occasional fox- 
hunt (the real article without anise seed). They 
passed several of the isolated crater-cones, 
lunched in the open, with but a sip of warm 
water from the ever-ready pottery jug, and 
finally, in the middle of the afternoon, reached 
their first camping-place in the Jaulan, in the 
unpeopled wilderness. There they had ample 
opportunity to write, to discuss plans for the 
untried road before them, and surrender them- 
selves to the abandon of unshackled freedom. 
Even the cook felt the influence. For he served 
"floating island" as the first course, and fol- 
lowed it up with potatoes, Irish stew and the like. 

Then followed the calm, restful quiet of a 
moonlight night. 

" How beautiful is night ! 
A dewy freshness fills the silent air ; 
No mist obscures, no cloud, nor speck, nor stain, 

Breaks the serene of heaven. 
In full-orb'd glory yonder moon divine 
Rolls through the dark-blue depths ; 
Beneath her steady ray 
The desert circle spreads, 
Like the round ocean, girdled with the sky ; 

How beautiful is night ! " — Southey. 
71 



VII 



GOLAN, THE CITY OF REFUGE 

Desolation is mildly expressive of the Jaulan 
in the autumn time. Two days of travel over 
its level, rocky surface from its northwestern to 
its southeastern corner revealed nothing but 
stones, ruins, graves and squalid indolence. The 
only exceptions to this monotony were due to 
outside influence. 

The first was a thriving Circassian village 
nestling on the side of a low hill, about a half 
hour off from the camping-place. Its well-built 
houses, its numerous haystacks, and its glisten- 
ing mosque dome revealed an industry of per- 
severance noticeably out of harmony with their 
surroundings. These Circassians came into the 
country in the year 1878 as a sort of political 
exiles, and wherever they have settled, they 
have made the "desert to blossom as the rose." 
Their villages, to the number of a dozen or 
more, dot the eastern edge of the Jaulan, and by 
sheer force of industry and will they have estab- 
lished themselves in the face of exasperating 
72 



Golan, the City of Refuge 

annoyances from their Bedawin neighbors. They 
are honest in the midst of rank dishonesty; and 
they follow Paul's injunction, "If it be possible, 
as much as lieth in you, live peaceably with all 
men." 

The Jews have introduced the second novelty 
into those dreary stretches of Arab-land in the 
form of a carriage road, which runs from a point 
near the waters of Merom, past Golan, to Mez- 
areb, the present terminus of the Damascus- 
Hauran railroad. Now this is not a macadam- 
ized road, with fences and shade trees on either 
side. It is nothing more than an honest attempt 
to clear a wide path amongst the loose surface 
stones, and construct a few simple passageways 
in places, to avoid the mud of springtime. 

Yet this modest attempt at improvement 
awakes no slumbering ambition in the Bedawy. 
On the contrary, he reads in this the signs of 
encroaching civilization and resents it with all 
his might. He has tried to undo what the Jew 
has done, by rolling back the large stones into 
the middle of the road, and thus impede the 
progress of any hypothetical vehicle unfortunate 
enough to attempt the journey. 

This road, however, was hailed with joy by 
the three travellers, who had wearied of jogging 

73 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

over the stony plain, ever on the alert lest a 
horse should stumble and fall. That was a long, 
thirsty ride, — six hours under a relentless sun, 
over a tract absolutely shadeless. 

" And on the traveller's listless way 
Rises and sets th' unchanging day, 
No cloud in heaven to slake its ray, 
On earth no shelt'ring bower." 

Only two trees were sighted during the day, and 
they were far away. 

Thanks to the old Romans, one of their sub- 
stantial bridges provided a cool, shady retreat, 
where lunch was discussed. The arches of that 
bridge still rise in refreshing memory. Eight 
solidly-built, pointed arches unite to form a 
bridge two hundred and fifty feet long and 
fifteen feet broad, spanning the Rukkad river, 
which is gentle enough in the fall, but evidently 
capable of manifesting in winter great obstruc- 
tive ability. The old bridge has withstood nobly 
the ravages of time. Its interstices are filled with 
excellent lime mortar, and at comparatively small 
expense it might be repaired. Then the roving 
inhabitants would not need to camp beside the 
swollen stream, awaiting sometimes for days 
and weeks the abating of the waters, that they 
may cross. However, they have nothing else to 

74 



Golan, the City of Refuge 

do, and their domestic economy suffers no jar 
by encamping here or there. 

This noble bridge stands as an almost im- 
perishable monument to the sovereignty of the 
ancient Romans, in this land. That they were 
preceded, however, by a civilization far more 
ancient than theirs, is evidenced by the large 
number of dolmens scattered all about the dis- 
trict in the vicinity of the bridge. These are 
remarkable piles of stone, called to this day 
"graves of the children of Israel," and were 
manifestly used at one time for sepulture. They 
consist of a circular platform of stones, upon 
which a rude tomb was erected, made of slabs 
of stone set on edge, and covered over by one 
or two enormous pieces. These tombs all have 
an east and west trend, are from two to three 
yards in length, about half as wide, and propor- 
tionately high. These huge monuments of a 
hoary antiquity may be counted by the hundred, 
nor may it ever be known who erected them and 
who found a last resting-place therein. Perhaps 
the giants of Bashan were buried in them,— those 
doughty warriors of Og's time. Then the land 
was densely inhabited. We read in the book of 
Joshua 1 of sixty cities, and in Deuteronomy 2 that 

1 Joshua xiii. 30. 2 Deut. iii. 5. 

75 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

"all these cities were fenced with high walls, 
gates, and bars; beside unwalled towns a great 
many." By this may be understood sixty centres 
of population, together with the outlying vil- 
lages. Where could be found now sixty towns 
worthy of a name and record ? Those tombs 
are of a truth evidences of a bygone civilization, 
— a memorial of buried greatness. 

Suppose, now, that the scroll of the ages might 
be rolled back to the time of Joshua and his suc- 
cessors. How different would be the landscape! 
Instead of stones would appear grain and vines 
and trees. Cities and towns and villages would 
be spread over the plain, joined to each other by 
a network of roads. The Jew would be there, 
but not by the gracious permission of his maj- 
esty, the Sultan ; — rather by right of victory and 
conquest. Farmers, merchants, warriors, law- 
givers, all would unite to improve the land and 
transform it into the Holy Land of Promise. 

And among other excellent and pleasing fea- 
tures would be one which commends itself as 
furthering the ends of justice and protecting its 
dignity, — namely, the city of refuge. There 
were six such cities, three on the east, three on 
the west of Jordan. Of these six, only two are 
of interest in the present discussion, — Ramoth 

76 



Golan, the City of Refuge 

Gilead in 'Ajlun, and Golan in the Jaulan. They 
were established at the command of the Lord, 
"Ye shall appoint you cities to be cities of ref- 
uge for you; that the slayer may flee thither, 
which killeth any person by error. And they 
shall be to you cities for refuge from the aven- 
ger; that the manslayer die not, until he stand 
before the congregation in judgment." 1 

The necessity for this provision of justice had 
its origin in the custom of tribal and family 
feuds, —avenging of blood, — prevalent to this 
very day. By it, for every murder there must be 
a compensating shedding of blood, and at the 
present time it need not be the murderer who is 
to be killed in his turn, but any innocent member 
of the tribe. Such justice bears but slight re- 
semblance to civilized codes of law. But it must 
not be forgotten that the children of Israel were 
hardly more than roving bands in those days, to 
whom God in His wisdom adapted such customs 
and laws as were best fitted to meet their needs, 
which contained also the germ of a higher and 
nobler existence 

Golan was well chosen as a city of refuge. It 
was situated in the midst of a vast plain, on rising 
ground, which might even deserve the name of hill. 

1 Num. xxxv. II, 12. 
77 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

[At this point it may be well to remark that 
this is an unscientific record. Identifications 
of historic spots, and all differences of opinion in 
regard thereto, are left for settlement to abler 
minds. Suffice it for the purposes of this narra- 
tive that Golan once existed somewhere east of 
the Jordan, and in this near vicinity; and that 
some explorers of no mean repute have located 
it at this very spot. Visitors to the Holy Land, 
who desire to preserve the least bit of sentiment, 
should not be too particular as to topographical 
niceties. In this instance "the letter kilieth."] 

Doubtless the Golan of ancient times was an 
imposing city. For it was the capital of the 
great district of that name. It may well be im- 
agined as covering a large area, with its citadel 
crowning the hill. Walled round about, it was 
a strong fortress for defence and a welcome 
refuge for the oppressed. Perhaps the Bible 
dictionary illustration comes to mind. There is 
the massive wall of the city, and the great gate 
opened by an expectant priest or Levite, ready 
to receive the fleeing unfortunate, who has un- 
wittingly killed a fellow-man. He is well-nigh 
exhausted, but fear and hope urge him on. 
His headgear is gone, his long locks stream out 
behind, on his countenance are depicted mingled 

78 



Golan, the City of Refuge 

emotions, and his eye is directed toward the 
gates. He has all but entered. In one short mo- 
ment he will be safe. 

But the " avenger of blood" is close behind 
him in hot pursuit. The arrow lies notched upon 
the string; the bow is drawn. Will the arrow 
find its mark ere the gates have swung to ? Alas, 
that childish query of long Sabbath afternoons 
will never be answered! The runner still flees 
from the avenging pursuer, the gates stand ajar, 
the arrow is still poised in mid-air, all the possi- 
bilities of a ruthless tragedy remain, — not a line 
of the picture is changed. 

Not so the city itself. No sane man, Jew or 
Gentile, would seek refuge in the dirty, dusty, 
degraded village that dishonors the name of 
Golan. Its buildings are ruins; its well is pol- 
luted; its citadel is a dunghill. Far from being 
a city of refuge, it has turned away the Jew, who 
sought an entrance, not for his own good alone, 
but to improve the general condition as well. 

Some years ago a colony of these despised, in- 
dustrious Israelites settled here, built them sub- 
stantial tile-roofed houses near the village, 
planted trees of various kinds, cultivated the land, 
laid out the carriage road, and might have restored 
to the place something of its ancient prestige. 

79 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Thereupon these uncouth villagers, farmers 
only by necessity, first-cousins to the lawless 
Bedawin, began a series of lying intrigues, which 
eventuated in the driving out of the Jews. The 
trees were uprooted and the vines despoiled. 
But the Jews will undoubtedly return some day. 
They are not to be dealt with thus unceremo- 
niously. And the villagers realize this. They 
fear a return, and look with suspicion upon all 
strangers, as being possible agents of their en- 
emies. 

When the travellers arrived at Sahem ej Jaul£n 
(the modern name of Golan), the tents were soon 
surrounded by a group of interested (and inter- 
esting) men, women and children. They were 
a sickly-looking lot, unwashed and unkempt, 
yet suspicious of any surreptitious introduction 
of civilization. The town well was so filthy that 
even the mules would hardly drink. Water for 
cooking and drinking purposes was brought 
from a distance of half an hour in tins that had 
once held kerosene oil. 

One innovation had been brought into the town, 
— a shop kept by two enterprising young men 
from Judeideh, one of them a former pupil in the 
Boarding Academy at Sidon. It was evident that 
these young men enjoyed the visit of their 

80 



Golan, the City of Refuge 

friends, and they entered most heartily into the 
singing when prayers were held. They had a 
varied stock of goods, and even furnished two 
small canisters of tea, not any the better for its 
long residence in the country. 

The villagers live a miserably poor life. There 
are some patches of ground called gardens, where 
a little corn and a few cucumbers and other such 
vegetables are grown. These, together with 
curds and cheese, are supposed to restore the 
wasting tissues of mortal man. Meat is a luxury, 
reserved for feasts and special occasions. 

The mental food is no better in quality and less 
in quantity. Of the whole district it may be said 
that schools are unknown. Education is at its 
lowest ebb. In regard to the moral and spiritual 
condition of the villagers it were better to be 
silent. True religion is- inward. What have 
they within their souls that could possibly be con- 
strued as a hungering and thirsting after right- 
eousness ? 

Far more suited to their desires and capacities 
was the village dance held that evening. The 
travellers were invited, but politely declined, as 
even from a distance both ears and nostrils were 
filled with the attendant noise and dust. The 
place chosen was evidently some open space, not 

81 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

far from the camp, where the elite of the town 
gathered in the moonlight. According to reports 
conveyed early in the proceeding by the Judeideh 
merchants, the men were seated in a large circle 
and giving the time by a mingled clapping of the 
hands and a gutteral grunt as near " hu-way-yah 
hu-way-yah" as can be expressed in civilized 
English. 

A drama was enacted by various damsels, who 
in turn seized a sword, entered the ring, and suc- 
cessfully warded off the advance of would-be 
suitors, until the one of their choice appeared,— 
and all this to the clapping of the hands and the 
dull, guttural "hu-way-yah." This was mild 
excitement, requiring no exercise of mental 
energy, admirably adapted to the limited intel- 
lects of the performers. Hour after hour they 
kept it up, with no variation in the time or the 
monotone, until one feared for the results upon 
their mental furniture. 

The tourists had early sought their cots, wearied 
by a day of excessive heat and dust; but far into 
the night, as they awoke ever and anon, came 
that low, droning sound, — the groaning of the 
sons of Golan, — " hu-way-yah, hu-way-yah." 



82 



A Bedawy Prince at Home 

of the mental acumen required to compute the 
value of seven twenty-fourths of a horse ! 

Yet this is no stranger than many other customs. 
For example, counting is always done by pairs. 
The shepherd counts his sheep thus. When the 
maid counts the loaves of native bread, the result 
is announced as so many pairs and a single one 
(if one is left over). Even gold pieces are thus 
counted! The Arabic is read and written from 
right to left ; a line of manuscript is even at the 
top, and hence words and phrases are UNDERS^or^ 
above. Twelve o'clock is at sunset ; 5 is o, and 
o is a period. " Sun " is feminine, " moon " mas- 
culine ; the orator begins, "Gentlemen and 
ladies." Locks are generally upside down ; the 
hands are washed after eating ; the carpenter 
saws away from the body ; in building a 
fire the twigs and chips are placed on top of the 
charcoal ; in hot weather the head is wrapped in 
a shawl ; the father is known by the name of his 
eldest son. 

The Arab tribes are Moslem, though they are 
not so strict as their city co-religionists. Perhaps 
they pray, but certainly not so regularly as the 
Koran prescribes. Nor does their religion in the 
least interfere with business. A horse "deal" 
the world over carries with it the aroma of dis- 

67 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

honesty. Even the Arab hospitality is in some 
points subject to criticism. To use a figure of 
civilized speech, it might be termed "silver 
plated." For when a feast is prepared, the great 
heap of food is so arranged, that the first to be 
served eat from the outside of the small mountain 
of rice, and when they have finished, lo, the rice] 
has disappeared, and under it is a mass of boiled 
wheat, the common food of the peasantry ! 

Their coffee, however, is the genuine article, — 
no chicory berry in it, — pure Mocha, prepared in 
the presence of the guests, from the first process 
of browning it. This is done by placing a hand- 
ful of the green coffee in an immense iron spoon 
with long handle, and holding it over the glow- 
ing coals. Next it is pounded in a wooden mor- 
tar with a wooden pestle to a rythmical cadence 
not unpleasant in its variations, which is produced 
by certain dextrous taps upon the side of the 
mortar, as the pestle is withdrawn to be poised 
in the air for another descent upon the amber, 
redolent berries. After it has been transferred to 
a curious long-handled, long-nosed, brazen coffee- 
pot, it boils briskly for a time, and then a sip of 
the dark fluid is poured into dainty cups and 
these presented to the guests. The host also 
partakes, as a token of benevolent intentions, or, 

68 



A Bedawy Prince at Home 

at least negatively, to prove the absence of poison 
in the drink. 1 After this preliminary trial, the 
cups are later filled with the dark, bitter coffee, 
and the guest is expected to drink it all. 

He who drinks coffee, or a cup of milk, 
or eats a morsel at the tent of the sheikh, is 
thereupon under his protection; nor is it etiquette 
to ask as to the business or objective point of 
the wayfarer, until after the lapse of three days. 
During that time he may eat and sleep as freely 
as if he were in his native village, and no ques- 
tions asked. That is Arab hospitality, in a land 
where the screech of the lightning express is 
unheard and unknown, and the voice of the 
hotel runner is still. Oriental hospitality requires 
time and patience, two commodities abundantly 
bestowed upon the easy-going Arabs. 

The travellers were not privileged to test these 
virtues to their full extent, because the itinerary 
included but an hour's stop at the encampment. 
However, an hour was quite sufficient to afford 
a view of Arab tent life. True, a poetic glamour 
overspreads this mode of existence. Novelists 

1 As corroborative evidence it has been noticed that the 
servant in receiving back the cup from the guest quickly places 
his hand over it with averted face, that he may not see whether 
any of the guests have suspiciously refrained from tasting the 
coffee. 

69 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

and poets have vied with one another in invest- 
ing these black tents and their swarthy occupants 
with the romance of idealism. But the fact 
remains that the tents are hot in summer, cold in 
winter, wet in rainy weather, uninviting at their 
best. The possibilities in the culinary depart- 
ment are meagre in the extreme, with no further 
variety than what rice, wheat and milk can 
afford. In the matter of dress they practice the 
extreme of simplicity, both in quantity, quality 
and style. Feminine rivalries in this direction 
are unknown. The only indulgence in ornamen- 
tation is in tatooing and in the use of blue-glass 
nose-jewels much in vogue. 

The sameness of their life would be appalling 
to a nervous westerner. No perceptible business, 
no newspapers, no social functions, no literary 
and musical clubs, no market reports, no football 
games, no elections! In such circumstances a 
little guerilla warfare would be welcome and a 
funeral would be a boon. Indeed, the latter is 
highly prized by townspeople as a choice occasion 
for social intercourse. One woman was heard to 
remark enthusiastically, after attending a funeral, 
" I enjoyed it very much! " 

The three tourists left the encampment of the 
noble Arab el Fudl, in nowise inclined to prolong 

70 



A Bedawy Prince at Home 

their visit, yet thankful for this opportunity to 
see an Arab prince and his home. They moved 
on for three hours more, the stony monotony of 
their road relieved only by an occasional fox- 
hunt (the real article- without anise seed). They 
passed several of the isolated crater-cones, 
lunched in the open, with but a sip of warm 
water from the ever-ready pottery jug, and 
finally, in the middle of the afternoon, reached 
their first camping-place in the Jaulan, in the 
unpeopled wilderness. There they had ample 
opportunity to write, to discuss plans for the 
untried road before them, and surrender them- 
selves to the abandon of unshackled freedom. 
Even the cook felt the influence. For he served 
" floating island" as the first course, and fol- 
lowed it up with potatoes, Irish stew and the like. 

Then followed the calm, restful quiet of a 
moonlight night. 

" How beautiful is night ! 
A dewy freshness fills the silent air j 
No mist obscures, no cloud, nor speck, nor stain, 

Breaks the serene of heaven. 
In full-orb'd glory yonder moon divine 
Rolls through the dark-blue depths ; 
Beneath her steady ray 
The desert circle spreads, 
Like th« round ocean, girdled with the sky ; 

How beautiful is night ! " — Southey. 
71 



VII 



GOLAN, THE CITY OF REFUGE 

Desolation is mildly expressive of the Jaulan 
in the autumn time. Two days of travel over 
its level, rocky surface from its northwestern to 
its southeastern corner revealed nothing but 
stones, ruins, graves and squalid indolence. The 
only exceptions to this monotony were due to 
outside influence. 

The first was a thriving Circassian village 
nestling on the side of a low hill, about a half 
hour off from the camping-place. Its well-built 
houses, its numerous haystacks, and its glisten- 
ing mosque dome revealed an industry of per- 
severance noticeably out of harmony with their 
surroundings. These Circassians came into the 
country in the year 1878 as a sort of political 
exiles, and wherever they have settled, they 
have made the "desert to blossom as the rose." 
Their villages, to the number of a dozen or 
more, dot the eastern edge of the Jaulan, and by 
sheer force of industry and will they have estab- 
lished themselves in the face of exasperating 

72 



Golan, the City of Refuge 

annoyances from their Bedawin neighbors. They 
are honest in the midst of rank dishonesty; and 
they follow Paul's injunction, "If it be possible, 
as much as lieth in you, live peaceably with all 
men." 

The Jews have introduced the second novelty 
into those dreary stretches of Arab-land in the 
form of a carriage road, which runs from a point 
near the waters of Merom, past Golan, to Mez- 
areb, the present terminus of the Damascus- 
Hauran railroad. Now this is not a macadam- 
ized road, with fences and shade trees on either 
side. It is nothing more than an honest attempt 
to clear a wide path amongst the loose surface 
stones, and construct a few simple passageways 
in places, to avoid the mud of springtime. 

Yet this modest attempt at improvement 
awakes no slumbering^ ambition in the Bedawy. 
On the contrary, he reads in this the signs of 
encroaching civilization and resents it with all 
his might. He has tried to undo what the Jew 
has done, by rolling back the large stones into 
the middle of the road, and thus impede the 
progress of any hypothetical vehicle unfortunate 
enough to attempt the journey. 

This road, however, was hailed with joy by 
the three travellers, who had wearied of jogging 

73 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

over the stony plain, ever on the alert lest a 
horse should stumble and fall. That was a long, 
thirsty ride, — six hours under a relentless sun, 
over a tract absolutely shadeless. 

u And on the traveller's listless way 
Rises and sets th' unchanging day, 
No cloud in heaven to slake its ray, 
On earth no shelt'ring bower." 

Only two trees were sighted during the day, and 
they were far away. 

Thanks to the old Romans, one of their sub- 
stantial bridges provided a cool, shady retreat, 
where lunch was discussed. The arches of that 
bridge still rise in refreshing memory. Eight 
solidly-built, pointed arches unite to form a 
bridge two hundred and fifty feet long and 
fifteen feet broad, spanning the Rukkad river, 
which is gentle enough in the fall, but evidently 
capable of manifesting in winter great obstruc- 
tive ability. The old bridge has withstood nobly 
the ravages of time. Its interstices are filled with 
excellent lime mortar, and at comparatively small 
expense it might be repaired. Then the roving 
inhabitants would not need to camp beside the 
swollen stream, awaiting sometimes for days 
and weeks the abating of the waters, that they 
may cross. However, they have nothing else to 

74 



Golan, the City of Refuge 

do, and their domestic economy suffers no jar 
by encamping here or there. 

This noble bridge stands as an almost im- 
perishable monument to the sovereignty of the 
ancient Romans, in this land. That they were 
preceded, however, by a civilization far more 
ancient than theirs, is evidenced by the large 
number of dolmens scattered all about the dis- 
trict in the vicinity of the bridge. These are 
remarkable piles of stone, called to this day 
"graves of the children of Israel," and were 
manifestly used at one time for sepulture. They 
consist of a circular platform of stones, upon 
which a rude tomb was erected, made of slabs 
of stone set on edge, and covered over by one 
or two enormous pieces. These tombs all have 
an east and west trend, are from two to three 
yards in length, about half as wide, and propor- 
tionately high. These huge monuments of a 
hoary antiquity may be counted by the hundred, 
nor may it ever be known who erected them and 
who found a last resting-place therein. Perhaps 
the giants of Bashan were buried in them, — those 
doughty warriors of Og's time. Then the land 
was densely inhabited. We read in the book of 
Joshua 1 of sixty cities, and in Deuteronomy 2 that 

1 Joshua xiii. 30. 2 Deut. iii. 5. 

75 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

"all these cities were fenced with high walls, 
gates, and bars; beside unwalled towns a great 
many." By this may be understood sixty centres 
of population, together with the outlying vil- 
lages. Where could be found now sixty towns 
worthy of a name and record ? Those tombs 
are of a truth evidences of a bygone civilization, 
— a memorial of buried greatness. 

Suppose, now, that the scroll of the ages might 
be rolled back to the time of Joshua and his suc- 
cessors. How different would be the landscape! 
Instead of stones would appear grain and vines 
and trees. Cities and towns and villages would 
be spread over the plain, joined to each other by 
a network of roads. The Jew would be there, 
but not by the gracious permission of his maj- 
esty, the Sultan ;— rather by right of victory and 
conquest. Farmers, merchants, warriors, law- 
givers, all would unite to improve the land and 
transform it into the Holy Land of Promise. 

And among other excellent and pleasing fea- 
tures would be one which commends itself as 
furthering the ends of justice and protecting its 
dignity, — namely, the city of refuge. There 
were six such cities, three on the east, three on 
the west of Jordan. Of these six, only two are 
of interest in the present discussion, — Ramoth 

76 



Golan, the City of Refuge 

Gilead in 'Ajlun, and Golan in the Jaulan. They 
were established at the command of the Lord, 
"Ye shall appoint you cities to be cities of ref- 
uge for you; that the slayer may flee thither, 
which killeth any person by error. And they 
shall be to you cities for refuge from the aven- 
ger; that the manslayer die not, until he stand 
before the congregation in judgment." 1 

The necessity for this provision of justice had 
its origin in the custom of tribal and family 
feuds,— avenging of blood, — prevalent to this 
very day. By it, for every murder there must be 
a compensating shedding of blood, and at the 
present time it need not be the murderer who is 
to be killed in his turn, but any innocent member 
of the tribe. Such justice bears but slight re- 
semblance to civilized codes of law. But it must 
not be forgotten that the children of Israel were 
hardly more than roving bands in those days, to 
whom God in His wisdom adapted such customs 
and laws as were best fitted to meet their needs, 
which contained also the germ of a higher and 
nobler existence 

Golan was well chosen as a city of refuge. It 
was situated in the midst of a vast plain, on rising 
ground, which might even deserve the name of hill. 

1 Num. xxxv. ii, 12. 
77 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

[At this point it may be well to remark that 
this is an unscientific record. Identifications 
of historic spots, and all differences of opinion in 
regard thereto, are left for settlement to abler 
minds. Suffice it for the purposes of this narra- 
tive that Golan once existed somewhere east of 
the Jordan, and in this near vicinity; and that 
some explorers of no mean repute have located 
it at this very spot. Visitors to the Holy Land, 
who desire to preserve the least bit of sentiment, 
should not be too particular as to topographical 
niceties. In this instance '"'the letter killeth."] 

Doubtless the Golan of ancient times was an 
imposing city. For it was the capital of the 
great district of that name. It may well be im- 
agined as covering a large area, with its citadel 
crowning the hill. Walled round about, it was 
a strong fortress for defence and a welcome 
refuge for the oppressed. Perhaps the Bible 
dictionary illustration comes to mind. There is 
the massive wall of the city, and the great gate 
opened by an expectant priest or Levite, ready 
to receive the fleeing unfortunate, who has un- 
wittingly killed a fellow-man. He is well-nigh 
exhausted, but fear and hope urge him on. 
His headgear is gone, his long locks stream out 
behind, on his countenance are depicted mingled 

78 



Golan, the City of Refuge 

emotions, and his eye is directed toward the 
gates. He has all but entered. In one short mo- 
ment he will be safe. 

But the "avenger of blood" is close behind 
him in hot pursuit. The arrow lies notched upon 
the string; the bow is drawn. Will the arrow 
find its mark ere the gates have swung to ? Alas, 
that childish query of long Sabbath afternoons 
will never be answered! The runner still flees 
from the avenging pursuer, the gates stand ajar, 
the arrow is still poised in mid-air, all the possi- 
bilities of a ruthless tragedy remain, — not a line 
of the picture is change^. 

Not so the city itself. No sane man, Jew or 
Gentile, would seek refuge in the dirty, dusty, 
degraded village that dishonors the name of 
Golan. Its buildings are ruins; its well is pol- 
luted; its citadel is a dunghill. Far from being 
a city of refuge, it has turned away the Jew, who 
sought an entrance, not for his own good alone, 
but to improve the general condition as well. 

Some years ago a colony of these despised, in- 
dustrious Israelites settled here, built them sub- 
stantial tile-roofed houses near the village, 
planted trees of various kinds, cultivated the land, 
laid out the carriage road, and might have restored 
to the place something of its ancient prestige. 

79 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Thereupon these uncouth villagers, farmers 
only by necessity, first-cousins to the lawless 
Bedawin, began a series of lying intrigues, which 
eventuated in the driving out of the Jews. The 
trees were uprooted and the vines despoiled. 
But the Jews will undoubtedly return some day. 
They are not to be dealt with thus unceremo- 
niously. And the villagers realize this. They 
fear a return, and look with suspicion upon all 
strangers, as being possible agents of their en- 
emies. 

When the travellers arrived at Sahem ej Jaulan 
(the modern name of Golan), the tents were soon 
surrounded by a group of interested (and inter- 
esting) men, women and children. They were 
a sickly-looking lot, unwashed and unkempt, 
yet suspicious of any surreptitious introduction 
of civilization. The town well was so filthy that 
even the mules would hardly drink. Water for 
cooking and drinking purposes was brought 
from a distance of half an hour in tins that had 
once held kerosene oil. 

One innovation had been brought into the town, 
—a shop kept by two enterprising young men 
from Judeideh, one of them a former pupil in the 
Boarding Academy at Sidon. It was evident that 
these young men enjoyed the visit of their 

80 



Golan, the City of Refuge 

friends, and they entered most heartily into the 
singing when prayers were held. They had a 
varied stock of goods, and even furnished two 
small canisters of tea, not any the better for its 
long residence in the country. 

The villagers live a miserably poor life. There 
are some patches of ground called gardens, where 
a little corn and a few cucumbers and other such 
vegetables are grown. These, together with 
curds and cheese, are supposed to restore the 
wasting tissues of mortal man. Meat is a luxury, 
reserved for feasts and special occasions. 

The mental food is no better in quality and less 
in quantity. Of the whole district it may be said 
that schools are unknown. Education is at its 
lowest ebb. In regard to the moral and spiritual 
condition of the villagers it were better to be 
silent. True religion is inward. What have 
they within their souls that could possibly be con- 
strued as a hungering and thirsting after right- 
eousness ? a 

Far more suited to their desires and capacities 
was the village dance held that evening. The 
travellers were invited, but politely declined, as 
even from a distance both ears and nostrils were 
filled with the attendant noise and dust. The 
place chosen was evidently some open space, not 

81 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

far from the camp, where the elite of the town 
gathered in the moonlight. According to reports 
conveyed early in the proceeding by the Judeideh 
merchants, the men were seated in a large circle 
and giving the time by a mingled clapping of the 
hands and a gutteral grunt as near " hu-way-yah 
hu-way-yah" as can be expressed in civilized 
English. 

A drama was enacted by various damsels, who 
in turn seized a sword, entered the ring, and suc- 
cessfully warded off the advance of would-be 
suitors, until the one of their choice appeared, — 
and all this to the clapping of the hands and the 
dull, guttural "hu-way-yah." This was mild 
excitement, requiring no exercise of mental 
energy, admirably adapted to the limited intel- 
lects of the performers. Hour after hour they 
kept it up, with no variation in the time or the 
monotone, until one feared for the results upon 
their mental furniture. 

The tourists had early sought their cots, wearied 

» 

by a day of excessive heat and dust; but far into 
the night, as they awoke ever and anon, came 
that low, droning sound, — the groaning of the 
sons of Golan, — ''hu-way-yah, hu-way-yah." 



82 



VIII 



MANEUVRING 

The Hauran! That far-away district, that 
dream of other days, the forbidden land, had be- 
come a reality, and the horses' hoofs were mak- 
ing their impress upon its rich soil. There it lay 
at the travellers' feet, stretching off into the dis- 
tance, glowing in the early morning sunlight. 

Those plains could reveal many a secret of war 
and bloodshed. There Chedorlaomer and the 
Rephaim giants met in deadly conflict at Ashter- 
oth Karnaim, 1 which rises on a double-pointed 
hill not far from Golan, and is famous in history 
for a temple to the heathen goddess Ashtoreth, 
and also as being one of Og's royal residences. 2 
Only a few hours away was Edrei, another of 
his capital cities, 3 where he was overwhelmingly 
defeated at the hands of Israel. 4 

Near by could be seen El Merkez, the present 
residence of the governor of the Hauran, and re- 
puted to have been the home of the patriarch Job. 

1 Gen. xiv. 5. 2 Joshua xii. 4. 

3 Joshua xiii. 12. *Deut. iii. 1-^. 

83 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

It is well that this venerable individual did not 
live to come under the sway of those same 
Turkish governors, who occupy his native soil 
to-day, else might his enviable reputation for pa- 
tience have been tarnished by contact with the 
representatives of all that is slow, obstructive, 
and exasperating. Who, more than the Turkish 
government, is responsible for the sad retrogres- 
sion in these districts, both of inhabitants and 
land ? These governmental leeches have sucked 
the life-blood of the poor peasants, until there is 
no hope left, nor any further reason for industry 
and effort. Improvement is but an excuse for 
greater excesses of iniquitous misrule. This is 
strong language, but not more so than that used 
in a popular Handbook for Syria and Palestine, 
compiled by a clergyman of the Church of Eng- 
land, who says: 

"Syria has been oppressed for centuries by 
foreign rulers who show no real interest in the 
soil or the people, and whose policy is to keep 
the inhabitants bound down in ignorance and 
poverty, all the available wealth of the country 
being grasped by themselves. The present do- 
minion of the Turk is no exception to this rule; 
and the miserable peasants are hopelessly crushed 
under the threefold oppression of the govern- 

84 



Maneuvering 



ment, the money-lender, and the tithe-gatherer. 
The results are potent to all — indolence, destitu- 
tion, bigotry, feuds, and bloodshed. The natural 
resources of Syria are excellent, and under a fair 
and enlightened government the country might 
rise again to prosperity. ... In the district 
bordering on the east boundaries of the country 
there are hundreds of towns and villages de- 
serted, whilst tens of thousands of acres of the 
richest soil are abandoned to the periodical raids 
of the wild hordes of the desert." 1 

Is it surprising that a people, fostered under 
such a government, should grow up to exhibit 
traits of dishonesty, trickery and suspicion in 
their most glaring form ? And is it any the more 
surprising that the Turk should use every en- 
deavor to prevent the ingress of Europeans and 
other foreigners, even as transient travellers, into 
those parts, where injustice and oppression have 
full sway ? 

The trio of sightseers were not unmindful of 
all these facts, and for two days had watched 
with closest scrutiny every road leading to gov- 
ernmental centres, lest they should meet some 
soldier or officer, who would forthwith report 
the presence of " Franks " in that forbidden land. 

1 Murray's Handbook for Syria and Palestine, 
85 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Thus far all had gone well. Now, however, a 
change was felt. The people themselves were 
suspicious to an extreme. Mezareb, a telegraph 
and railroad station, was only a few miles away, 
to approach which meant certain detection and 
inquiry and orders to appear at Damascus. The 
sheikhs of Sahem ej Jaulan were indebted to the 
government for assistance rendered in ejecting 
the Jews, and hence would gladly do a favor in 
return. 

What was the dismay, then, of the travellers, 
as they left Sahem ej Jaulan by the eastern road, 
and advanced along the great plain, to discover 
in a backward glance one of these very sheikhs 
riding up to them, accompanied by a soldier, 
both mounted on swift steeds! They were on 
the straight road to Mezareb, and would rejoice 
to give the word of warning. 

The tourists had not intended to follow the 
main road for long, but hoped to strike off in a 
southerly direction, cross the river, keep on past 
Tell Shehab, and end their day's journey at Irbid, 
only one day distant from Jerash. 

But this movement of the Golan sheikh com- 
pletely disconcerted their well-laid plans. For 
he could by rapid riding reach Mezareb, and a 

mounted soldier or two could reach Tell Shehab, 

36 



Maneuvering 

ere the travellers with their pack-animals could 
cross the deep gorge of the Yarmuk river and ar- 
rive at Tell Shehab by a straighter route, though 
far more difficult. That is, the sheikh and the 
soldiers could traverse two sides of a triangle 
more quickly than the baggage-laden party could 
cover the third. 

This sheikh accompanied them for a half-hour 
or more, and during all that time his eyes were 
busily surveying with most careful scrutiny 
horses, riders, arms, dogs and loads, so that he 
could have given a minute description of the 
whole expedition. While he conversed with the 
"foreigners" with evident satisfaction, yet his 
air of reserve and suspicion boded naught but ill 
for the successful issue of present plans. 

However, when the guide (an old man from 
the village and very talkative) turned off toward 
the south on a road leading to Jillen and the river, 
the great natural "divide," all breathed more 
easily, and there was a perceptible and spontane- 
ous quickening of the pace, even to the smallest 
donkey. 

Arrived at Jillen, a superb view greeted the 
eyes of the travellers, enough to dispel all dis- 
quieting thoughts of government, soldiers, or 
discovery. Here was an exhibition of natural 

87 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

grandeur not often seen. It was the deep gorge 
of the Yarmuk river, which flows in its mighty 
chasm fully seven hundred feet below the level 
of the surrounding country. It is as if the earth 
had burst asunder into a yawning abyss, which 
had given passage to the rapid stream. The 
country on either side is perfectly level, and the 
sides of the fissure are almost perpendicular. 
Hence one might ride nearly up to the brink of 
the precipitous gorge, without in the least sus- 
pecting its presence. 

Far, far below, the madly-rushing waters of 
the river fill the air with the sound of their cease- 
less energy, as they dash over rocks and boulders 
and form miniature rapids and cascades, or 
whirl in circling eddies about some broadened 
corner. On the banks the vegetation is luxuriant 
and vari-colored. A few Bedawin have selected 
the wider parts to pitch their temporary camps. 
The sides of the gorge, at first glance, reveal no 
possible way of descent from either side, — only 
a network of goat paths, which no human be- 
ing, other than the experienced goat-herds, could 
climb with safety. Such is the boundary be- 
tween the Jaulan and Haur&n on the one side, 
and 'Ajlun on the other. 

The travellers halted upon the brink of this 

88 



Maneuvering 



mighty chasm, this natural (and geographical) 
boundary, with something of the feelings of the 
children of Israel at the shore of the Red Sea. 
To turn back upon their tracks meant dis ^ 
appointment and disgrace; to the left hand lay 
the high road to Mezareb; the right hand path 
would lead them into greater difficulties of 
valleys and impassable chasms; and before them 
this precipitous, pathless gorge! Unlike the 
children of Israel they did not murmur, but did 
what was far more practical, — resolved them- 
selves into a committee of ways and means, sent 
out scouts to reconnoitre, and eventually plunged 
down the steep sides over a path that zigzagged 
in a most dangerous fashion over slippery rocks 
and down difficult steps. 

When they reached the river bank, they could 
look back at their courserpast giant boulders that 
threatened to come crashing down upon them. 
They made their way through thick bushes of 
oleanders to the ford of the river. 

There a new difficulty confronted them even 
worse than the descent. The Israelites were 
highly favored in comparison, because they went 
over the Red Sea on dry land. Here, however, 
was a ford of the worst possible description. 
The water was rushing swiftly along, over a 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

river bed filled with large, smooth boulders. 
And it was sufficiently deep to add to the diffi- 
culties of the passage. The animals could not be 
sure of a single step. They might easily place a 
hoof upon the top of a smooth, slippery rock, 
and slide off into a deep hole on the other side 
of it. 

At such a ford the rider must make absolute 
surrender of all prospects for future comfort and 
dryness. He must tuck his feet up in a most 
uncomfortable and insecure fashion, must watch 
gun and saddle-bags and umbrella, must guide 
his horse up stream, and keep clear of the other 
struggling animals. Add to this the shouting of 
the muleteers and the assembled Bedawin, the 
barking of the dogs, and the decisive directions 
of the travellers, and the scene may be mentally 
pictured. 

No untoward accidents occurred. One mule 
lost his load, but after he had reached dry (or, 
at least, muddy) land. Another fell, but he, too, 
obligingly waited till he had crossed the river. 
So, after a delay of a half hour, the caravan 
moved on, thankful for progress made, " count- 
ing their mercies." 

At this point a new guide was taken on to con- 
duct them up to the high level of the plateau on 

90 



Maneuvering 



the southern side. It was a heavy uphill pull, 
especially for the loaded animals. Then a short 
advance over the barren plateau brought them to 
a village on the direct road to Tell Shehab. Here 
the guide from Golan was dismissed, and a new 
one was engaged, not to take them further south, 
which was the direction of the "danger-zone," 
but to turn to the right and follow the southern 
bank of the gorge toward the west. 

Here were rapid tactics, well calculated to dupe 
the governmental envoys. A double change of 
guides and a complete "right face" away from 
telegraph and Turkish officials placed the travellers 
out of all danger of pursuit. Indeed, they en- 
joyed the possible predicament of the Golan 
sheikh, who might have been the means of send- 
ing out soldiers post haste to Tell Shehab and tele- 
graphic messages to Irbid. 

They themselves moved on rapidly along the 
high plateau, delayed in some places by mud, 
which in the autumn time is as unexpected as it 
is unwelcome. This plateau has the form of a 
triangle, ever narrowing toward the west, 
bounded on the north by the Yarmuk in its deep 
gorge, and on the south by another stream 
equally depressed below the surrounding land. 
At the junction of these two rivers the plateau 

91 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

narrowed to a mere tongue of high land. On 
either side could be seen the two streams far 
below. 

The road led down by a rapid descent to a 
point where a third stream joined the two, 
making a labyrinth of valleys and mighty 
chasms, which branched off in every direction. 
Here was scenery wild, and bold, and romantic. 
The majestic cliffs mingled in perplexing con- 
fusion. To the east could be seen the beautiful 
falls of Zeizun, descending in a series of cascades 
a distance of nearly eight hundred feet. At one 
point the river made a graceful turn, including 
within the circumference a high limestone hill. 
The whole course of the river was lined on 
either side by thickly-growing oleanders and 
other bushes. 

This was an ideal place for a camp along the 
broad river-bottom, with choice of water from 
three streams, and excellent pasturage for the 
animals. But alas, barley is necessary for a 
hard-working beast, and the mill, which the 
guide had affirmed to be a well-stored granary, 
was locked and the owner absent. Hence this 
choice spot must be abandoned and the travellers 
move on. 

Once more the deep gorge must be left behind, 

92 



Maneuvering 

as the animals mounted up to the former level of 
the plain. The crossing of two such deep 
abysses had tired the beasts of burden, and the 
caravan moved on slowly toward the close of 
day. The sun went down upon them as they 
came opposite Abil, the ancient Abila of the 
Decapolis. 

A new difficulty confronted them. The guide 
had crossed the boundaries of his own tribal 
section, and was in the district of enemies. One 
of his tribesmen had killed a man of the tribe who 
occupied this district, and by the laws of the 
blood-feud, it was their turn to kill some one of 
the other tribe. Why should it not be this 
guide? With difficulty could he be persuaded 
• to conduct the party to a fountain, whose lo- 
cation he knew. 

When the sun set, the moon was ready to take 
its place, and by the waning light of day and the 
ever-increasing brightness of the moon the party 
entered a little valley, where flamed a shining 
rill from a cool, refreshing fountain. There they 
pitched their tents on the greensward beside the 
stream. A muleteer was despatched with the 
guide to a near village to purchase barley for the 
well-deserving animals. Supper was served in 
the moonlight to three hungry travellers, wearied 

93 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

from a fatiguing ride and climb of seven hours 
and a half in the intensely hot sun. 

This quiet, lonely valley was unique as a camp- 
ing-place, and its very obscurity gave a pervad- 
ing sense of calm and security from all observa- 
tion. Not a soul was visible all the long even- 
ing. The travellers were monarchs in their 
lovely little valley. Their spirits revived under 
the genial, mellowing influence, and soon sweet 
harmonies of well-known strains echoed from 
crag to crag along the hills. 

How marked the contrast between the begin- 
ning and end of this eventful day! The one was 
marked by haste, confusion and alarm; the other 
came like a gentle benediction upon the labors of 
the day. That night a watch was set for the 
first time. Each one in his turn stood guard 
over tents and animals and slumbering com- 
panions. 

The " otherwise man "took his turn toward 
midnight. All nature seemed to sleep, save the 
tiny stream, whose gentle murmur broke the si- 
lence of the night. The cold rays of the moon 
cast stilly shadows alongside rocks and shrubs. 
The distant howl of a jackal added a weird charm 
to the strange, quiet scene. 

The stars above were friends, — those never- 

94 



Maneuvering 

changing reminders of God's love to man, silvery 
ladders of light, on which the finite mortal may 
rise in thought and prayer to the infinite Creator. 
Amid the stillness of the scene came the com- 
forting thought of a loving Protector. 

" Silently one by one, in the infinite meadows of heaven, 
Blossomed the lovely stars, the forget-me-nots of the angels." 

— Longfellow. 



95 



IX 



A MEMORABLE RIDGE 

Nothing is so sure to arouse a hunter from his 
early morning sleep as the calling of the par- 
tridges from one bush to another, — that peculiar 
sound, unmistakable in its identity. 

"Peaceful Valley" was evidently a favorite 
haunt of doves and partridges. They could 
drink at the purling stream and find refuge 
amongst the crags and low bushes of the moun- 
tain-sides. 

The cackling of these feathered visitors im- 
pressed itself upon the dreamy half-conscious- 
ness of the "Literary Friend," until he fully re- 
alized the situation. Then he left his cot, dressed 
himself, and started in pursuit of game. But 
there was another hunter in the party, fully as 
desirous of a shot as he. It was the "Aged 
Friend." That hale and hearty individual no 
sooner awoke to the transaction, than he, too, 
sprang out of bed and into a garment or two, 
grasped his gun, called to the dogs, and was out 
of sight amongst the rocks and bushes, before 

96 



A Memorable Ridge 

the third member of the expedition — not a hunter 
— could array himself for public inspection. 

Soon the report of the guns awoke the echoes, 
the dogs brought in a partridge or two, and 
thus the fundamentals for an excellent lunch 
were assured. Still the chase continued, one 
hunter up aloft on the ridge of the barrier moun- 
tain, the other leaping from rock to rock, hurling 
stones into every clump of bushes, up, down, 
everywhere, both oblivious of the flight of time 
and the labor of the chase, — thorough sportsmen. 

Long after the "otherwise man" in despair 
had begun upon bread and sweet-food, the two 
hunters returned and took a hasty bite before the 
process of "pulling down the house" began in 
real earnest. Soon, however, the whole camp 
was on the move upward, out of the beautiful, 
lonely valley, to the highlands toward the west. 
The guide of yesterday had returned early in the 
morning, happy in the possession of a bright sil- 
ver Turkish dollar. 

The caravan moved on past fields on either 
side, where busy scenes of ploughing were wit- 
nessed. Dozens of yokes of oxen were circling 
about the fields in jerky procession, true to the 
Biblical narrative. 1 The rude, one-handled 

1 I Kings xix. 19. 
97 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

ploughs, light enough to be carried long distances 
on the shoulder, danced unevenly over the rough, 
stony ground, which scarcely felt the wounds 
made by the simple oriental ploughshare. It is 
not due to the excellence of the farm implements 
that the soil yields " an hundredfold." 

The travellers next passed an old and ruined 
town, in whose midst was a gigantic tower, — a 
token of former greatness and an evidence of 
energy entirely foreign to the present purposeless 
inhabitants. For they live mostly in caves (if 
such an existence could be called living), or have 
piled up a few stones from the ruins of a nobler 
ancestry and covered them over with roofs made 
of sticks and branches and earth. They have a 
precious legacy in a subterranean fountain, 
reached by descending a long flight of steps, ex- 
cavated with great labor in the hard soil in the 
desire to make available the precious spring. 
There, deep, deep down bubbles the refreshing 
water, a priceless acquisition to the town. 

One might think that the present dwellers in 
that village and region would be stimulated to 
the exhibition of a little pride and energy by the 
grand examples of ancient activity ever before 
their eyes. But no ! they would not turn over a 
single spadeful of soil to find water. They would 

98 



WOMEN AT THE MILL 




A LOAD OF WATER 



i 



A Memorable Ridge 

rather send their women a mile to some spring 
to carry a jarful at a time for cooking and drink- 
ing purposes. 

The name of the village is Hebras, doubtless a 
town with a history, could it but divulge its 
secrets. 

From thereon the road led the travellers 
through a long valley, and up to a ridge bordered 
on the north by the deep, impassable Yarmuk 
valley, and breaking down to the south into a 
wide, depressed plain, whose towns and hamlets, 
woods and valleys formed a pleasing panorama, 
and ended in the magnificent prospect of the high 
and rugged mountains of Gilead. 

This northern ridge is historic. Along its whole 
length may be traced the aqueduct, which in 
ancient times brought water to Gadara from 
fountains in distant Hauran. At some points it 
is as perfect as in the days of its service, at 
others is entirely obliterated by time and the 
elements and man's destructive hand. This 
waterway recalls the period when human labor 
counted for nothing, and kings had but to order 
and it was done, despite all obstacles. 

Would that kings had always directed the 
labors of their subjects in the line of building 
aqueducts and other useful works, — peaceful pur- 

99 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



suits ! Alas, this ridge brings up memories of war 
and bloodshed, — host battling against host, and 
human lives held as valueless. It was somewhere 
along this natural barrier between north and south 
that two vast civilizations, leading representatives 
of the Semitic and the Japhetic branches of man- 
kind, met in deadly conflict to decide the su- 
premacy in these eastern lands. The Greek and the 
Saracen in the year 634, a. d. , opposed one another, 
army against army, and history records the deadly 
scene in the battle of the Hieromax. The Arabs 
bore down in an overwhelming avalanche upon 
the fated Greeks, and by sheer momentum of 
dauntless courage pushed them over the precipice 
to certain death in the valley below. This battle 
sounded the death-knell of European supremacy 
in Syria, and opened the door to the Moham- 
medans. 

To-day the country lies desolate. Only a vil- 
lage here and there distinguishes it from the desert. 
Yet this northern strip of 'Ajlun is better than 
dreary Jaulan because of the many small trees, 
which are the promise of forest lands beyond. 

The travellers plodded along in the white lime- 
stone dust, while the sun beat down upon them 
with relentless energy. The day was exception- 
ally hot and the dust was suffocating. 

100 



A Memorable Ridge 

" The sun 

Pours the unmoving column of his rays 

In undiminish'd heat ; . . . 

The parch'd baked earth, undamp'd by usual dews, 

Has gaped and craek'd, and heat, dry midday heat, 

Comes like a drunkard's breath upon the heart." 1 

The Syrian sun! Who can describe it! One 
might conclude that it is a different orb from the 
genial old Sol, who smiles down upon the States. 
There he tempers his mighty power, unless it be 
that the dogs in August bark him to fury. He 
warms the atmosphere (and sometimes uncom- 
fortably), and countenances the fashion of shal- 
low straw hats. 

But no traveller in Syria would venture to pro- 
voke his wrath by meeting him with less than a 
helmet of pith or cork. He burns the nose to a 
rubicund hue and tans the skin until the tourist 
might merge his identity in that of some swarthy 
Bedawy. 

The unfortunates of this particular day's travel 
were no magicians to pacify the raging sun by 
soothing incantations. They must move on, 
jogging along over a fairly good road, but ex- 
ceedingly dusty, with no water at hand to quench 
their increasing thirst. They were glad to take 
noontide shelter under a clump of scrub-oaks, 

1 Van Schaick. 
101 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

which furnished scanty shade for such a day of 
heat. Nor did dry biscuit and sweet-food tend 
to allay the desire for water. They then ex- 
perienced real thirst. The intense heat had 
seemingly burned out of their systems the last 
vestige of moisture. The driest package of 
desiccated codfish would have been a mineral 
spring in comparison ! 

Would that the old aqueduct were still carrying 
its precious burden of sparkling water ! Oh, that 
some water-seller might appear, with the well- 
known cry," Oh, ye heated ones, oh, ye thirsty ! " 
even though the goatskin tucked under his arm 
be filled with lukewarm, salty water ! 

No such good fortune was the lot of the trav- 
ellers. They rested as best they could for an 
hour or two with unslaked thirst, then mounted 
once more and urged their animals on, now over 
black stretches of white road, now amidst min- 
iature forests of scrub-oaks, until at last they 
stood upon the summit of a rising knoll and 
their gaze fell upon the goal of the day's journey, 
Gadara, toward which they hastened with eager 
steps. 



108 



X 



GADARA, THE CITY OF TOMBS 

As the three tourists stopped for a moment at 
the rise of the hill to rest the tired horses, from 
their elevated view-point they could look down 
upon the site of the once-famed city of Gadara. 
Its modern representative is mean enough,— a 
usurper of its situation only. At first glance 
the sightseers were poorly rewarded for their 
efforts. 

But the imagination is not fettered by the tes- 
timony of the senses. Suppose these travellers 
to have exchanged personality with three way- 
farers of nineteen centuries ago. Then let them 
stand upon this eminence. What a magnificent 
scene would have greeted their eyes! A truly 
Roman city would have lain at their feet. For 
Pompey in the hour of his ascendency ordered 
the rebuilding of the place in regal splendor, to 
satisfy the wish of his freedman, Demetrius, 
who had been born there. 

Gadara was once an important city. Did it 

not belong to the circle of the Decapolis ? Was 
103 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

it not the centre of the whole district known as 
" the country of the Gadarenes " P 1 A royal city 
it was indeed! A grand boulevard stretched 
toward the west, lined on either side with pil- 
lars of basalt brought from a distance. This 
was the fashionable quarter of Gadara, where 
noble Romans had their villas, and passed their 
time in driving their chariots over the well-paved 
street. To this day the ruts worn in the paving 
blocks attest the frequent passage back and forth 
of chariots and charioteers. They would drive 
to the temple to strew incense upon the altar of 
their favorite god, or to the theatre (of which 
there were two), there to join with other noble 
Romans in witnessing the plays, or seeing a 
Christian martyr torn to pieces by wild beasts. 

As they sat in the rising tiers of stone seats in 
the great amphitheatre, what a wondrous pros- 
pect greeted their eyes ! Clearing the nearer villas 
and columned avenue, their gaze could extend off 
to the western side of Jordan, to the waving line 
of mountains, to Tabor and Gilboa and Gerezim 
and Ebal. Far below in its deep-sunken basin, 
fully nineteen hundred feet beneath them, lay 
Galilee, the beautiful lake, shimmering under the 
rays of the afternoon sun. 

1 Mark v. I. 
104 



Gadara, the City of Tombs 

And doubtless all the surrounding land was 
laid out in gardens and parks to please the eye 
of the noblemen, and the breezes wafted to their 
refined senses spiced odors of rare plants and 
shrubs. In the foreground rose the citadel, the 
crowning feature of the magnificent city. 

Yet Gadara to the Christian Bible-student is 
connected more with the dead than with the 
living. Though the miracle of our Lord in heal- 
ing the raving maniac, who came out from the 
tombs to meet the party, 1 could not by any phys- 
ical possibility have been performed in or near the 
city of Gadara itself, yet because the evangel 
locates it in the country of the Gadarenes, the 
mind naturally turns to rocky tombs and deso- 
late places — to "the city of the dead." 

The necropolis of Gadara is well-nigh as ex- 
tensive as • the city itself. Between three and 
four hundred tombs fill the eastern quarter, mak- 
ing a veritable honeycomb. These tombs are 
huge caves under ground, with steps leading 
down to well-wrought doorways. Many of the 
tombs have double doors of hard basalt stone, 
which were carved with pivots at the top and 
bottom. These pivots work in sockets cut into 
the surrounding frame. Everything is of stone, 

1 Matt. viii. 28-34 j Mark v. 1-20 ; Luke viii. 26-39. 
105 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

— frames, pivots, doors. Most of them are still 
in situ, and are to-day in working order. 

Some of the caves contain carved and orna- 
mented basalt sarcophagi. Many of them, how- 
ever, have been removed and utilized as troughs 
for feeding animals and holding grain. The 
tombs themselves constitute excellent storerooms 
for fodder and the like. 

Thus have the present inhabitants made use of 
those relics of a bygone age of splendor and 
wealth. How great the contrast! To-day Gadara 
is in the hands of a dirty, degenerate population, 
— not natives of the soil, but exiles from old 
Shechem across the Jordan. A more untoward 
lot was not seen in all the trip. They were re- 
quested to sell coal and bread. The former was 
not to be found in all the miserable village of two 
hundred souls. They use smoky chips and twigs 
instead. 

As for bread, — that oriental staple never re- 
fused even to an enemy, — Gadara could, or rather 
would, produce none. The sheikh of the village, 
when asked to aid in the matter, replied that it 
would be a disgrace to sell bread. Yet his 
oriental instincts of the proprieties failed to 
discern the far greater disgrace involved in 
practically refusing to provide this essential 

103 



Gadara, the City of Tombs 

article. Pride prevented a sale; stinginess, a 
gift- 

Hard-pressed, the muleteers finally arranged 
with a man to bake some bread for them. When 
it appeared in camp, even the muleteers, accus- 
tomed to every known variety of food, exclaimed 
in wonder and amazement! That bread might 
have won a prominent place in the British Mu- 
seum! Its components no one would have ven- 
tured to name. It left a lasting impression upon 
the memory of all, and doubtless a painful one 
upon those who were obliged to partake. 

The present name of the town is Um Keis,/. e. t 
" mother of Keis." This appellation, coupled 
with the extraordinary display of culinary ability 
above mentioned, led the facetious member of 
the party to christen it "Mother Keis' Hotel." 

The water supply of this degenerate town is a 
fountain situated far down a steep and narrow 
ravine, fully a half hour away. Near this foun- 
tain the travellers found a level spot just large 
enough for tents and animals to find lodgment. 
There they passed the night, though not very com- 
fortably; for the place had evidently been used 
for tethering donkeys from time immemorial, and 
was a mass of fine dust not conducive to cleanli- 
ness. 

107 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Still, they were thankful that they could be free 
from the greater of the two evils, — the town up 
on the hilltop, polluting the very view with its 
squalor. Good it is that the noble Romans, 
scented and bathed and clad in perfumed gar- 
ments, could not realize the degradation of their 
beautiful city! 

The fountain furnished a study in the tenacity 
of custom. It was at the rear of a large cavern 
in the face of the cliff. A goodly stream issued 
from the rocky wall in a little waterfall. The 
floor of the cavern was sunk below the level of 
the ground outside, so that those who wished to 
fill their water-skins must wade in water two 
feet deep. Here was a cause of wonderment to 
a progressive westerner. That fountain, fully fif- 
teen feet within the cave, had been there for years, 
and the women, girls, and donkeys of that town 
had labored down the long, long hill with their 
empty water-skins (Biblical as could be desired), 
and had waded through the pool of water to 
reach the flowing fountain! 

And why should they do otherwise? Their 
mothers and grandmothers had been content thus 
to draw water. Has the thought never occurred 
to any one during all this time that they might 
fill up the undesirable pool with the loose stones 

108 



Gadara, the City of Tombs 



which abound everywhere, and thus make a 
rough causeway to the interior of the cave ? No ; 
such a burst of genius would be mentally dele- 
terious, and would be out of harmony with the 
general effect of the picture. Who would wish 
to change one line or bit of color in it ? Foun- 
tain, village and villagers, with dirt, donkeys, and 
universal indigence, rise in memory and invari- 
ably (even though contrary to fact) bring to mind 
another series of pictures, — a herd of two thou- 
sand swine; a demoniac "clothed, and in his 
right mind"; a great number of angry villagers ; 
a gentle, yearning, loving Presence departing 
from their midst, driven away, never to return 
with the priceless Word of Life, far greater in 
value than many a herd of filthy swine. 

Gadara must suffer for the sin of her one-time 
dependency, Gersa, where the miracle and the 
rejection of our Lord most probably occurred. 
But to-day Gadara, the city of tombs, represents, 
in the mind of the visitor, a sordid greed and a 
rejected Saviour. 

"Then the whole multitude of the country of 
the Gardarenes round about besought him to de- 
part from them." 1 

Turn, now, to a brighter and a cleaner picture. 

1 Luke viii. 37. 
109 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

The old Romans, whose villas graced the boule- 
vard of Gadara, delighted in abundance of water. 
Not only had they the aqueduct, bringing a refresh- 
ing stream from far-off fountains, but they could 
spend their leisure hours at the famous hot 
springs of the Hieromax, down in the deep valley 
to the north. It was a long descent to the river- 
level, but they had abundance of time for such 
excursions. There the precipitous banks of the 
river broke down on the one side into sloping 
terraces, and on the other widened out into a 
luxuriant, triangular plain. Palms and other sub- 
tropical vegetation were found in rich profusion. 
The view glistened in its broad, winding course. 
Stately buildings, — theatres, baths and villas, — 
united to make this place second only to the re- 
nowned Italian Baiae as a resort for the rich and 
titled Roman youth. 

Time and neglect have levelled the princely 
edifices, and only traces remain in prostrate 
columns and fallen walls. Yet time has been 
kind to the natural beauties of the place. It is an 
attractive spot, despite neglect and ruin. The 
pools of steaming water, even as of yore, show 
a temperature of 119 , — far too hot for comfort. 
The old arrangement of double tanks still exists, 

whereby the hot water is drawn off from one to 
110 



Gadara, the City of Tombs 

another and there allowed to cool. Even then it 
was too hot for nineteenth century missionaries. 
It was highly suggestive of Roman tortures. 
But a Bedawy at hand, tough of skin, leaped 
into the pool and remained there for a long time! 
The tourists were quite content to retire in his 
favor, and seek a cooler retreat in the shade of a 
compact little theatre close by the spring. 

The ride down the valley from the hot springs 
was a beautiful one, with the rushing stream in 
full view, and Um Keis receding in the back- 
ground. The travellers followed the narrow 
path, at first along the river-bottom, then up 
high on the sloping mountain-side, until at last 
they emerged upon the wide plain at the south- 
ern end of Galilee. There they could forget all 
discomforts of previous days in the delightful 
prospect before them*, For they were returning 
to civilization, to enjoy a quiet day or two with 
friends and renew acquaintance with books and 
papers. 

They reached the lake about noontime, rested a 
while and bathed in its refreshing waters, wash- 
ing away the last vestige of Gadara's unpleasant 
contagion. After lunch the party rode on along 
the southern shore of the lake, glad in the 
thought of rest. 

ill 



XI 



A SABBATH BESIDE GALILEE 

The camp at Tiberias was well chosen for 
situation. High up on the brown bluffs overlook- 
ing city and lake the white tents gleamed under 
the afternoon sun. Their occupants made them 
specially tidy, and the table was spread in the 
doorway, that the beautiful view might not be 
lost. For this was not to be an ordinary stop 
over night, but Saturday and Sunday were to be 
spent here and friends might be expected to call. 
There were letters to read and letters to write, 
and, best of all, there was the ever-present pic- 
ture of the peaceful lake, the most beautiful, the 
most restful spot in the world. 

" How pleasant to me thy deep blue wave, 
O sea of Galilee ! 
For the glorious One who came to save 
Hath often stood by thee. 

****** 

" Graceful around thee the mountains meet, 
Thou calm reposing sea ; 
But, ah, far more ! the beautiful feet 

Of Jesus walked o'er thee."— M'Cheynt. 
112 



A Sabbath Beside Galilee 



Who would not wish to sit down with the 
travellers at their evening meal ? Many a devout 
worshipper of our Lord has longed to see with 
the natural eye what is his to see only with the 
eye of faith. Many a saint, rich in grace and 
works, has yearned to look upon the scene of 
Christ's earthly labors. Every year come hun- 
dreds of tourists, at no trifling outlay of time, 
expense and personal inconvenience, that they 
may stand beside the hallowed lake. 

Silently, reverently the true believer waits at 
the shores of blue Galilee, and as he meditates 
upon the spotless Life spent beside the still 
waters, his thoughts are all enhanced by the 
harmonious views of nature round about. 
Where could be found a more beautiful, truly 
appropriate setting to the mental picture of 
the innocent Lamb Of God than in the ex- 
quisite physical surroundings on that quiet even- 
ing! The fading light of day in the western 
sky scarce dimmed the rays of the rising moon, 
as it ascended higher and yet higher in the 
east, sending its calm, cold rays over the 
obstructing mountains down to the quiet lake 
below. As the brightness reached the placid 
waters, there stretched from shore to shore a 
silvery path of shimmering light, as though the 

113 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

angels were preparing the way for the Saviour 
once more to approach, walking on the water, 
as of yore. 

Peace, perfect peace overspread the scene. 
Hardly a ripple stirred the face of the lake. No 
sound was heard from the quiet city. Far across 
to the northeast the crater cones stood out in the 
abundant moonlight, and the travellers could 
discern how their path had led them amongst 
those hermit mounts. There rose noble Hermon 
to the north, standing out in lofty solitude, in- 
deed the sheikh of the mountains. The south- 
ern horizon was closed by the mountains of 
Gilead, dimly revealed in the distant prospect. 

As one stood upon the overhanging bluff, his 
thoughts might wander back to distant centuries, 
and his memories harmonize with the dim, ro- 
mantic sheen cast over all the scene far and near 
by the full-orbed moon and the myriad stars of 
heaven. He might look down, and, almost at 
his feet, in imagination view the marble palace 
of a Herod, in the newly-built city dedicated to 
Tiberias Caesar, with streets laid out in ancient 
splendor, its baths and seaside villas the resort of 
the rich and titled aristocracy of the Roman city. 
Near the southern end of the lake might be seen 

another town, Hippos, whose name reveals its 
114 



A Sabbath Beside Galilee 



Greek origin, — one of the Decapolis. Far up 
on the eastern ridge gleam the columns of 
Gadara's boulevard. Gamala and Tarichese in- 
cluded in imagination's picture. 

Yet these Greek and Roman cities find small 
place in the devout memory, which seeks other 
places touched by the divine life of the Son of 
Alan. It is not recorded that our Lord ever en- 
tered Tiberias, or climbed the steeps to Gadara. 
No doubt He visited those centres of population. 
But nothing is said of such visits. The eye 
dwells but momentarily on the wonders of Ro- 
man greatness, and rests upon the scenes to the 
north. It seeks out the little village of Magdala, 
— not far away, just over the cliff, at the borders 
of the plain of Gennesaret. Thence came Mary 
the Magdalene, upon whom the Divine Physician 
wrought a marvellous cure, 1 and she in grateful 
recognition of His mercy became an humble fol- 
lower and helper in His needs. 

That wide-spreading, fertile plain of Gennes- 
aret! How it must have teemed with multitudes 
in towns and villages! While now it is all but 
deserted, then our Lord found much to do on its 
plain and at its shores. There it was that He 
used the beautiful, though commonplace, illus- 

1 Matt. xv. 39 ; Luke viii. 2, 
115 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

tration of the sower and the seed 1 to enforce in 
the minds of His hearers an important truth. 
They crowded about the shores in great numbers, 
while He stood in the boat just off the shore. 
The lowly fishing-smack, made serviceable as a 
floating pulpit, was gently rocked by the rippling 
waves of the quiet sea, and the Great Teacher 
revealed to them the way of life, looking lovingly 
upon the dense mass of human beings, for whom 
His own soul yearned as a parent for a lost child. 
Behind and beyond the crowds He could see 
the gently-rising plain, bearing on its bosom long 
stretches of ground prepared for the sowing. 
There He could discern the narrow path, passing 
through the cultivated fields, pressed hard by the 
tread of oxen, horses and men; in one place 
there was the good soil, warm and deep; in an- 
other a mere covering of earth over the limestone 
rock; with clumps of thorny bushes springing 
up on the borders. Perhaps, as our Lord looked 
upon this scene, some farmer, too busy with the 
cares of this world to be attracted by the words 
of salvation which fell from the lips of Jesus, 
was even then engaged in sowing the seed, — un- 
consciously furnishing a sacred lesson to be 
handed down the ages. 

J Matt. xiii. I-23. 
116 



A Sabbath Beside Galilee 

How typical of our Lord's work! He sowed 
on all soils. He spared not the seed. Wonder- 
ful power and force of propagation there was in 
that seed! Nations have been born, have flour- 
ished and passed away since that time. But the 
seed of the Word, sown beside the quiet little 
lake, has been propagated, until to-day its in- 
crease is found in every nation of the globe! 
Verily, God "hath chosen the weak things of 
the world to confound the things which are 
mighty." 

How busy was the divine Master! From the 
day that He called Peter and Andrew, James and 
John away from their boats and nets to follow 
Him and become "fishers of men," He led a life 
of unceasing activity. Mark records 1 that " in the 
morning, rising up a great while before day, He 
went out, and departed into a solitary place, and 
there prayed. And Simon and they that were 
with Him followed after Him. And when they 
had found Him, they said unto Him, All men 
seek for Thee. And He said unto them, Let us 
go elsewhere into the next towns, that I may 
preach there also: for therefore came I forth." 

Capernaum on the north shore of the lake was 
specially favored as being the Galilee home of 

1 Mark i. 35-38. 
117 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

our Lord. As in Judaea He made the Bethany 
house of Lazarus His home while there, so in His 
labors about Galilee He always returned to the 
house of Peter in Capernaum. 1 Many are the 
miracles recorded, plain and important were the 
teachings of our Lord in that place! None too 
lowly, none too exalted for His merciful touch. 
He healed a raving demoniac, 2 and raised Peter's 
wife's mother from her bed of sickness. 3 On 
His way to heal the daughter of Jairus/the ruler 
of the Jews, He stopped to speak to a poor 
woman in the throng, who had received the cure 
she desired by merely touching the hem of His 
garment. 5 While in Cana of Galilee, a noble- 
man came to Him in great haste, beseeching Him 
to go down to Capernaum and save his son from 
death. By a word the youth was restored, even 
though the Great Physician was far away. 6 Ro- 
mans, too, received favors from His gracious 
hand. A centurion besought Him for the life of 
a favorite servant, and for his great faith this 
was granted him. 7 It was in Capernaum that 
He spoke the wonderful words concerning the 
bread of life. 8 There, too, He placed a little 

1 Mark i. 29. 'Matt. ix. 32, 33. 'Luke iv. 38, 39. 

4 Luke viii. 41, etc. 6 Matt. ix. 20. 6 John iv. 46-53. 
'Matt. viii. 5- 13. 8 John vi. 26, etc. 

118 



A Sabbath Beside Galilee 



child in the midst of His ambitious disciples, 
saying, " Except ye be converted, and become 
as little children, ye shall not enter into the king- 
dom of heaven." 1 

Favored city, to have seen and heard the great 
Master! How must her citizens have listened 
with reverence and awe to those divine words of 
wisdom, and obeyed the injunctions to repent 
and believe! Alas! what do we hear the Sav- 
iour say? "And thou, Capernaum, which art 
exalted unto heaven, shalt be brought down to 
hell: for if the mighty works, which have been 
done in thee, had been done in Sodom, it would 
have remained until this day." 2 

That prophecy is literally fulfilled! Not one 
stone stands upon another, and even the site of 
the once-prosperous \ city is disputed by those 
who should know. 

" Tell me, ye mouldering fragments, tell, 
Was the Saviour's city here ? 
Lifted to heaven, has it sunk to hell, 

With none to shed a tear ? " — M'Cheyne. 

Chorazin, likewise, and Bethsaida, where the 
Lord worked other miracles, have suffered the 
same fate, doomed to oblivion, as our Saviour 
said. 3 To-day those sacred shores are calm, — 

1 Matt, xviii. 3. 2 Matt. xi. 23. 3 Luke x. 13. 

119 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

but only with the quiet of the wilderness, — for- 
gotten places. 

Then the whole lake in its length of a dozen 
miles or more felt the touch of a Divine hand, and 
seemed to reflect the peace, the repose of a super- 
natural will. Galilee is the scene of Christ's 
peaceful works, while in His Jerusalem ministry 
all was turbulence and strife. It might even be 
admissible to say that Galilee, the beautiful, the 
peaceful, could not have been chosen for the 
scene of His crucifixion. 

Even in its angry moods, when lashed to mad- 
ness by the raging winds, it remained obedient 
to the Divine word of command, "Peace, be 
still." 1 And after His resurrection, as if with the 
desire once more to see His disciples in that 
quiet region and beside the peaceful lake, the 
risen Redeemer appeared to them there, as they 
fished, and called to them. Then he led them 
away to a near mountain and gave them His last 
command to " go into all the world." 2 

The lustre of that glorious Presence still per- 
vades these shores. Some one has written of 
"sermons in stones." Here are sermons in 
scenes, — scenes, which cannot be polluted by 
human superstition and clerical myths. For 

» Mark iv. 39. 2 Mark xvi. 15 

120 



A Sabbath Beside Galilee 



they have to do with nature, not man. No need 
to offer threadbare stories to prove the reality of 
these places. Galilee is now what it was in our 
Lord's time in all but the part which man played. 
That has passed away, leaving the better part, — 
better, because natural. The placid waters of 
the lake cannot be changed by man, nor do the 
eastern precipitous bluffs lose one whit of their 
grandeur as the years pass by. Peter and John 
and all the disciples of our Lord have departed. 
Roman turrets and glistening ramparts have 
crumbled away. The Crusaders have come and 
gone, their memory kept in the massive, though 
fast-decaying walls and towers about the city of 
Tiberias. All these have seen their day. 

But the Divine Healer in His life and teachings 
has given an impulse^ to charitable works, un- 
dreamed of before His time. Where in all the 
Roman world could have been found a hospital, 
an asylum, a resort of any kind for the healing of 
body or mind? Christ, as embodied in Chris- 
tianity, has filled the world with noble institutions, 
for the relief of pain and restoration of bodily and 
mental powers. 

To-day there stands beside the sacred lake a 
spacious hospital, built by Scottish Christians, 
who have desired to follow the example of the 

121 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Great Physician. A rare privilege was accorded 
the "otherwise man" on Sunday morning, when 
he was permitted to address the patients gathered 
in the little chapel. Most of them were Jews. 
Tiberias is a great centre for these people, gath- 
ered from many parts of the world. Some of the 
listeners were brought in by attendants and laid 
gently near the speaker's stand. Many circum- 
stances recalled the Divine Preacher to the sick 
and suffering, — the nearness to the lake, the 
presence of halt, maimed, and blind, the Jewish 
faces and oriental dress. Even the language 
was akin to the Aramaic, which the Lord may 
have used in His talk, when "the common 
people heard Him gladly." Nor were these 
listeners inattentive, as the word was read, 
hymns sung and thoughts presented. True, the 
Jews of the present time are indeed "children of 
Abraham, " as were their forefathers, and they 
strenuously reject the Saviour. But our Lord 
was not discouraged in His labors, and shall His 
followers relinquish hope ? 

As the beautiful Sabbath day drew to a close, 
and the last many-colored hues on the eastern 
mountains had faded away with the setting sun, 
then sweet music, full of cheer and comfort, 

sounded on the evening air. In the parlor of the 

122 



A Sabbath Beside Galilee 



missionary home, beside the quiet lake, the 
tourists passed a delightful hour in song. 
Familiar hymns and inspiring solos from the 
grand oratorios seemed to bring nearer the 
blessed One, whose steps had hallowed these 
pleasant shores. And what could be more 
beautiful than the tender refrain, sung often in 
the home-land, but never so appropriately as 
beside those tranquil waters shimmering in the 
moonlight: 

O Galilee ! sweet Galilee ! 
Where Jesus loved so much to be : 
O Galilee ! blue Galilee ! 
Come sing thy song again to me ! " 



123 



XII 



A PROPHECY AND A FULFILLMENT 

Retrospect is a clever artist. It softens the 
darker lines of past experiences, brings into prom- 
inence the more interesting features, and tones 
the whole picture with the subtle sub-coloring 
of a genial hopefulness. 

As the travellers arose on Monday morning, 
after the grateful rest of the quiet, peaceful Sab- 
bath, memories of intense heat and waterless 
plateaux, of deficiencies in coal and bread, and of 
possible detection and detention, had given place 
to more agreeable anticipations. For the week 
was to be spent in a delightful portion of the 
country, filled with woods and fountains, and 
Jerash was the goal before them. This goal they 
might reach by either of two routes. One would 
lead them through the mountainous land of Tob, 1 
south of Gadara, and thus by pleasant stages to 
the desired point. 

The other route lay partly along the depressed 
valley of the Jordan, partly through the heavy 

1 Judges xi. 3, 5. 
124 



A Prophecy and a Fulfillment 

woodlands of 'Ajlun. Although this way prom- 
ised to be hot and tiresome during the first day's 
ride over the long stretches of the sunken plain, 
it was chosen, nevertheless, because of the wealth 
of historical associations connected with the re- 
gion, and more especially, because the site of 
Pella was the objective point of Monday's travel. 
For this little city was once the divinely-provided 
retreat of the early Christians during the years 
which followed the establishment of the infant 
church of Christ. Pella is connected with a 
prophecy and a fulfillment. The prophecy fell 
from the lips of the Lord Himself; the fulfillment 
was accomplished all unconsciously by the Ro- 
man legions. 

Ere the tourists leave the camp at Tiberias, it 
may be well to refresh the memory regarding the 
events of those early years and review the record 
of Rome's destructive work in Palestine. 

At about the time when the noble apostle Paul 
lay languishing in a Roman prison, awaiting 
death, as no uncertain tradition indicates, at the 
hands of the monster Nero; that infamous ruler 
conceived the necessity of subduing Palestine 
and the proud Jewish nation. He found them 
very different from other tribes and nations that 
had come under the sway of the Roman eagles. 

125 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

They were an independent, haughty race, and 
their very religion, free from idolatry, was a 
matter of remark to the idol-loving Romans. 
Other nations and principalities had easily taken 
a place in the accommodating Roman common- 
wealth, and their gods had been added to the 
number of the national deities. But this avow- 
edly monotheistic nation was perseveringly stub- 
born. And they were so situated geographically, 
as to render it imperative that the land be thor- 
oughly subdued. 

This difficult task was assigned to Vespasian, 
a skilled veteran of many a rough campaign, 
who undertook the work with most thorough 
preparation. He gathered a redoubtable army of 
sixty thousand men at Ptolemais (Acre), the door 
of all Galilee. Thence he advanced toward the 
east. All the open country and unfortified towns 
fell quickly into his hands. The first severe and 
protracted siege was before Jotapata, where 
Josephus, the historian of the war, commanded 
the Jewish forces. The beleaguered inhabitants 
resisted till the last vestige of hope had vanished, 
when they were all put to the sword (save Jose- 
phus himself, who escaped by a doubtful ruse), 
and as many as forty thousand Jews perished. 
This was but one instance of the terrible scenes 

126 



A Prophecy and a Fulfillment 

that accompanied the army's progress through 
the land. Peaceful Galilee was transformed into 
a charnel house, and the lovely lake assumed a 
bloody hue from the deadly sea-fights thereon. 

Tiberias voluntarily opened its gates to Titus, 
son of Vespasian, but Tarichea?, along the south- 
ern shore, sustained a heavy siege. It was of no 
avail. The Roman armies were victorious. Over 
six thousand of the inhabitants perished on the 
spot, and the strangers were marched away from 
the doomed city along the lake shore to Tiberias, 
to be slaughtered, if old and unserviceable, or, if 
strong and robust, to be sent to Greece to dig 
the great canal. Six thousand youths were thus 
transported as a tribute to Nero. The rest of the 
inhabitants, over thirty x thousand, were given to 
Herod Agrippa, or sold in the slave market. 

Gamala, an almost inaccessible fortress and 
town at the east of the lake, fell into the hands 
of the Romans, though not without severe loss to 
them. The city was built on a projecting spur 
of the eastern bluffs, and the houses, built in ter- 
races, overhung one another in a precipitous 
manner. Josephus relates that the Roman le- 
gions, having gained access to the city, crowded 
into the upper rows of houses in great numbers. 

This immense and unusual weight loosened the 

127 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

houses from their precarious foundations and 
bore them down upon the houses below. These 
in turn crashed down to lower levels. Thus 
perished many Romanc, — ground to powder in 
the falling ruins, or suffocated by the dust that 
arose from the debris. Vespasian himself led a 
second attack, which was successful. In this 
siege nearly ten thousand Jews perished. 

Gadara next succumbed to a bloody siege, and 
thousands met death by the sword, or were 
drowned in the Jordan, whither they had been 
pursued. 

Thus in one short year was all Galilee subdued. 
Cities and villages, fortresses and plains, fell into 
the power of the Romans, until all of northern 
Palestine was laid waste, and its inhabitants put 
to the sword. Strange contrast! The shores of 
gentle Galilee transformed into afield of blood! 

The southern portions of the country were next 
assailed in similar manner, in tragic preparation 
for the final scene, — the memorable siege of Jeru- 
salem. The destruction of this city in the year 
70 a. d, was a remarkable example of the literal 
fulfillment of prophecy. Our Lord, as he stood 
before the massive temple in the streets of the 
Holy City, had plainly told His disciples of com- 
ing events. "And when ye shall see Jerusalem 

128 



A Prophecy and a Fulfillment 

compassed with armies, then know that the 
desolation thereof is nigh. Then let them 
which are in Judcea flee to the mountains; and 
let them which are in the midst of it depart out; 
and let not them that are in the countries enter 
thereinto. For these be the days of vengeance, 
that all things which are written maybe fulfilled. 
But woe unto them that are with child, and to 
them that give suck, in those days! for there 
shall be great distress in the land, and wrath 
upon this people. And they shall fall by the edge 
of the sword, and shall be led away captive into 
all nations, and Jerusalem shall be trodden down 
of the Gentiles, until the times of the Gentiles be 
fulfilled." 1 

To Titus, the able son of Vespasian, was com- 
mitted the conduct of the siege of Jerusalem. 

He began operations in April, at the time of 
the great feast of the Passover, when Jews from 
all the world were assembled within the city 
walls, and the vast numbers added greatly to the 
terrible vividness of the foretold tragedy. The 
Roman general used the utmost precautions in 
fortifying his position by banks and trenches. 
He was greatly aided by the riotous dissensions 
inside the sacred city itself. The ranks of the 

i Luke xxi. 20-24. 
129 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Jews were divided into three parties, who filled 
Jerusalem with internecine carnage and blinding 
confusion. The people, though brave, were un- 
skilled, and no match for the veteran soldiers of 
the enemy. Famine, too, added its gloomy hor- 
rors. Who can describe the agonies of a million 
people, shut in to starvation and maddening pes- 
tilence! The stronger preyed upon the weaker. 
Even maternal instincts failed and the children 
starved to death before their mothers. Those 
who ventured outside the walls in search of grain 
or other food, were seized by Roman soldiers, to 
the number of five hundred a day, and crucified 
before the eyes of the Jewish populace upon the 
walls. So many were they that "room was 
wanting for the crosses, and crosses wanting for 
the bodies." Ah, did not the Jews then call to 
mind their atrocious crime in crucifying One 
who did them naught but good ? 

When Titus had built a massive wall about 
Jerusalem, precluding all possibility of escape, 
then famine stalked through the city with great 
strides and destroyed whole families, until there 
were none left to bury the dead. A great con- 
flagration also burst forth and swept away the 
magnificent temple, and with it the hopes of the 
Jews. A general entrance was soon forced into 

130 



A Prophecy and a Fulfillment 

the doomed city. Carnage was rife. The sur- 
vivors of famine and pestilence were killed or 
transported, and thus was destroyed the sacred 
city in awful fulfillment of our Lord's predic- 
tion, "Behold, your house is left unto you 
desolate! " 1 

Josephus states that over a million souls perished 
during the siege, and that in all the course of the 
war nearly one hundred thousand prisoners were 
captured and transported ! Thus thoroughly did 
the Roman accomplish the task ordained of God 
to be done. Like a mighty judgment upon the 
nation, that had rejected the promised Messiah, 
that wave of fire and sword and consequent pesti- 
lence swept through the land. 

And where were the disciples of Christ ? Did 
they perish with their countrymen ? No ; the 
omnipotent God, who uses kings and armies at 
His will, is able also to preserve His elect. Christ 
had not prophesied entirely to deaf ears. His 
followers caught the meaning of His warnings, 
ere it was too late. When all signs pointed to a 
Roman invasion, the little band of Jerusalem con- 
verts remembered His words, " Then let them 
which are in Judaea flee to the mountains." In 
the year 66 a. d., the Christians in and about 

1 Matt, xxiii. 38. 
131 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Jerusalem left their homes and made their way to 
those "mountains," which were to protect them 
in the coming besom of destruction. How often 
had they gazed off toward the northeast to the 
line of the solid hills that rose up beyond the 
dividing Jordan! 

No doubt they received plain guidance in their 
flight. They came to the little city of Pella, in 
the eastern hills, off from the travelled main road, 
which led from Galilee, through Peraea, to Judaea 
and the south, and made it their home for many 
years. Why this place escaped, while all around 
it met destruction, may possibly have been due to 
the character of its inhabitants. Perhaps it was 
so predominantly Greek and Roman, that the 
armies could have found but little employment. 
The great reason, however, was the divine pur- 
pose of God. 

Those were dark days for the church of Christ. 
Well-nigh universal destruction and carnage all 
about them ; thundering legions passing near in 
the valley below ; the evening skies reddened by 
the glow of burning cities ; their beloved country 
laid waste before them. And they, a little band 
of believers, were refugees in the east-Jordan 
country. There these disciples, who gloried in 
the cross of Christ, were destined to be preserved, 

132 



A Prophecy and a Fulfillment 

at a time when the proud rejecters of Christianity 
were perishing in their sins. 

Such were the stirring events which led up to 
the occupation of Pella as a retreat for the faithful 
disciples. Is it surprising that the three travellers 
of the present record willingly included the his- 
toric city in the list of desirable points ? The only 
cause for hesitancy was that the ruins of Pella 
are so snugly hidden away amongst the eastern 
hills, that they might easily escape detection. 

At eight o'clock the exploring party were un- 
der way, and travelled during the first two hours 
back along the shore of the lake, whence they 
had come three days before. Near the exit of 
the Jordan they passed the probable site of 
Tarichese, which suffered terribly at the hands of 
Vespasian. Then it was a populous city with 
turreted castles and moat and frowning walls. 
Now only the cattle graze idly on the gentle slopes, 
and the broad river sweeps along, as if to carry 
away on its tranquil tide all memories of fierce 
encounter. The noble stream was forded at the 
point where it emerges from the lake, there broad 
and shallow, — hardly two feet deep, — as if averse 
to entering between the narrow banks, which 
are to confine it along many a mile in its down- 
ward course. 

133 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

The eastern plain stretched out in level fields, and 
the tourists, urged onward by hope of reaching 
their goal, as well as by the intense heat of a shel- 
terless plain, rode straight across the fields. They 
sighted a number of beautiful gazelles, standing 
in a half-frightened, half-inquisitive manner, 
which, when pursued, bounded swiftly and 
gracefully over the soil to reach the shelter of the 
protecting foot-hills. Harmless creatures ! Lit- 
tle did they realize that they were passing over 
ground once reddened by the blood of thousands, 
and shaken by the tread of armies. They escaped 
unharmed, and their pursuers, retracing their 
steps, hastened onward to the ford of the Yarmuk. 
This river at its junction with the deep, swift- 
flowing Jordan is nearly as wide and deep as the 
better-known stream. The passage was not ac- 
complished without some danger of a thorough 
wetting. But all passed over safely and laughed 
heartily at the episode. Then southward as the 
crow flies, over fields unploughed, to a large, 
shady tree, where a rest was taken for lunch. 
After this they reached a refreshing little stream, 
bordered with those peculiar, thorny shrubs, 
which look inviting enough for shade, but have 
a most exasperating way of insisting on retaining 
the unwary one who accepts their invitation. 

134 



A Prophecy and a Fulfillment 

There a typical John the Baptist appeared. 
His shaggy locks and swarthy face, bare limbs 
and short garment bound about with a leathern 
girdle, and his sudden appearance from out the 
water of the little brook, reminded one of that 
striking figure who appeared in the wilderness 
of Judaea. 

At this stream the travellers imbibed great 
quantities of water, — enough, it might be 
thought, to suffice them till morning. But no; 
as day drew to a close and no signs of their 
destination were visible, their thoughts were de- 
tracted from the historically interesting Pella to 
the presently important question of water. They 
asked goat herds along the way as to the where- 
abouts of the village that marks the site of Pella. 
The invariable answer was returned, "Only a 
little way ahead." They tried one rise that ap- 
peared to have a well-marked path; this led them 
nowhere, and, baffled in the search, they retreated. 
Like some hidden city Pella was not to be found. 

When a running stream was reached toward 
sunset, the loads were "put down" beside the 
road and the tents were spread. Two of the trio 
went up a steep road leading into the foot-hills 
and followed it for a quarter of an hour or more. 
No village appeared, however, to justify the im- 

135 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

pression that they were near the desired spot. 
The night was spent in camp beside the road. 
The water was poor, the thermometer high, the 
mosquitoes industrious, and sleep intermittent. 

In the morning the contest was renewed and 
fortune smiled. From early wayfarers it was 
learned that the conjectures of the night before 
had been right. Tubakat Fahl (Pella) was only 
a half-hour away. Five minutes more of riding 
would have taken the two scouts into view of 
the village. While one of the party went with 
a muleteer to reconnoitre and to buy feed for the 
animals, the others had an opportunity to witness 
a proceeding which appeared to them at the time 
as somewhat novel, and proved in the sequel to 
be worthy of note. As they glanced up a steep 
ravine, they saw a number of cattle hurried along 
over the rough, pathless gorge, urged onward by 
two or three men. On the opposite side of the 
ravine, high up on the mountain-side, a number 
of armed Bedawin moved along, apparently not 
associated with the cattle-herders. They all 
moved on rapidly out of sight, and almost out of 
mind. 

Later on the two foragers returned, bringing 
with them barley for the horses, good news for 
the sightseers, and— the sheikh of the village, 

136 



A Prophecy and a Fulfillment 

who, when he heard that the travellers were 
near, went down to greet them in true oriental 
fashion. He led them back to his native place 
with manifest pride, and essayed to play the 
dragoman amongst the ruins. 

Tubakat Fahl is situated on a high hill, looking 
much like a truncated cone. This may have 
been the citadel of the ancient city. Below, in a 
beautiful, green valley, is a copious spring, or 
rather, a series of them, bubbling up into a rip- 
pling stream, that waters the broad valley. So 
abundant is the rank vegetation, that the pros- 
trate columns strewn about are quite invisible to 
the casual observer. Here was Pella, — not more 
than a remembrance of it left to-day; only a few 
broken columns and an inscription or two, built 
into the walls of the houses on the hill, or lying 
unused beside the road. 

It was near here, on the rising plateau beyond 
the town, that, many centuries after the first 
little group of Christians found protecting shelter, 
a great battle was fought between Arabs and 
Christians, and eighty thousand of the latter 
were left dead upon the field. 

The tourist of the present, as he wanders over 
the fields and drinks from the fountains, excuses 
the meagreness of the existing ruins, because of 

137 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



the abundance of historical memories that crowd 
in upon the mind. He recalls Pella as an oasis in 
the great desert of ruined and deserted villages, 
kept green by the fountains of God's providential 
care, the retreat of the Christians in that first 
century of conflict and commotion. 



133 



XIII 



THE OAKS OF BASHAN 

It would be a rare privilege to enjoy the atten- 
tions of a mayor as escort in visiting an American 
city. These officials as a rule deem themselves 
unqualified for such service. 

Not so, however, the mayor of Pella! That 
dignitary was quite willing to suspend the duties 
of his office, in order to escort his three guests 
and their attendants on their way toward the 
south country. Quite true, there was the pros- 
pect of a half-dollar, or thereabouts, and above 
all, the pleasure of hearing something outside 
the regular round of conversational topics, worn 
into ruts by the cumbrous passage of slow-going 
thoughts in a village like Tubakat Fahl. The 
sheikh was in a talkative mood, so that the trav- 
ellers gained fully as much information as he. 

The way led up from the fountains of Pella 
through a deep and precipitous valley, in whose 
walls appeared many caves, once used as dwell- 
ings for the living or the dead. The white lime- 
stone of this valley glistened under the burning 

139 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

rays of the sun. The only breezes that came 
were hot and dry, and not at all refreshing to 
parched lips. The memory of Pella's cool waters 
added vividness to the uncomfortable reality. 
At the upper end of the valley a huge rock stood 
out alone, like a guarding sentinel. 

Yet not so watchful but that robbery could be 
committed near by. As the tourists, sweltering 
in the morning heat, labored past the giant 
guard, down from an adjoining ravine rushed a 
number of excited villagers. One was riding, 
and the others hastened with careless feet over 
the rough, stony roads, all carrying guns of an- 
tique pattern, shouting and gesticulating at the 
passers-by. They had just discovered the theft 
of a herd of cattle. Ah, those cattle seen in the 
early morning! The mystery was explained! 
The sheikh of Pella was eagerly questioned, 
though he could give little satisfaction. The 
travellers told all they knew. Then onward 
again rushed the villagers in hot pursuit (liter- 
ally) of the raiders, urged by a siren hope that 
some one of the multitudinous valleys and ra- 
vines would divulge its unlawful secret. How 
improbable that those unfortunate villagers would 
ever see their property again! 

For this was Gilead, the rough, mountainous 

140 



The Oaks of Bashan 



district, where robbers abound, — once the ap- 
propriate home of brave warriors and stalwart 
huntsmen. Elijah, the prophet of fire, was born 
and bred in this region, 1 and his history well ac- 
cords with his mountain home. He might easily 
take refuge in some valley, safe from the intru- 
sion of Jezebel's mercenaries. And if, as some 
translators would have it, the Arabs, and not the 
ravens, fed him, 2 the picture might almost be du- 
plicated now. Woe to the king's soldiers, had 
they attempted to find their way in that maze of 
valleys without a guide! Their ranks would 
have been broken and l their numbers availed little 
against the natural barriers raised all about them. 
The wild scenery, so rocky and precipitous, 
forms a fitting background to the rugged story 
of Elijah's life and service. Even as that uncouth 
Gileadite appeared like a spectre before the 
wicked King Ahab, to frighten the conscience- 
stricken monarch 3 by the very suddenness of his 
appearances, so new scenes of rugged grandeur 
burst upon the view, as the traveller makes his 
way through difficult valleys and over rocky 
ridges. 

The three tourists followed their guide up a 
steep path, past the dusty village of Kefr Abil, 

1 1 Kings xvii. I. 2 I Kings xvii. 4, 6. 3 I Kings xxi. 20, 
141 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

and down again into a beautiful, green valley, 
set with olive-trees and watered by a clear 
stream, which bears the misnomer of the "dry 
river." This name in Arabic, Yabis, is the exact 
equivalent of Jabesh, Yabis{h), and since this 
situation accords with the Bible references, com- 
petent authorities have placed in this vicinity the 
site of Jabesh Gilead. 

This city had a peculiar history. It first ap- 
pears in the sacred record in connection with the 
incident of Benjamin's depopulation. 1 When Is- 
rael relented of their cruel deed, and realized that 
one of the tribes was thus blotted out, they 
sought a means of reparation, and fixed upon 
Jabesh Gilead to release them from the conse- 
quences of a rash vow. Because the inhabitants 
of this place had not joined in the war against 
Benjamin, this was made an excuse for a deadly 
slaughter, and of all the inhabitants very few es- 
caped, other, than four hundred maidens, who 
were given as wives to the needy Benjamites. 2 

The record does not tell how Jabesh Gilead re- 
covered its previous state, after this damaging 
blow. Three hundred years afterward it again 
came into notice shortly after the anointing of 
Saul by the Prophet Samuel. Nahash, the Am- 

1 Judges xx. i. 2 Judges xxi. 8. 

142 



The Oaks of Bashan 



monite king, had come up against the city, 1 and 
promised to spare the lives of the people, on 
condition that he thrust out the right eye of 
every one of them. They gained a seven days' 
respite from the execution of this terrible and 
disgraceful condition, and sent to Gibeah, Saul's 
home. That worthy was following the homely 
occupation of a farmer (strange kingly avoca- 
tion!), and, as he was driving the cattle home- 
ward, heard the unmistakable sound of a public 
wailing in the village, — the sure token of some 
calamity. With characteristic zeal he organized 
a relief party, which swelled to the enormous 
number of three hundred and thirty thousand 
men. The people of the besieged town were in- 
formed of the imminent deliverance, and sent a 
deceptive answer to Nahash, promising submis- 
sion. Then the redoubtable host crossed the Jor- 
dan, fell upon the Ammonites with great slaughter, 
and rescued the inhabitants of Jabesh Gilead from 
the tortures of their barbarous enemies. 

The recollection of these dire events did not dis- 
turb the travellers, as they sat under the refresh- 
ing shade of the olive-trees and ate their lunch 
with a relish. There the old guide turned back, 
after giving instructions to go straight ahead up 

1 I Sam. xi. I. 
143 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

the valley, which opened up before the tourists in 
the direction of their desires. After bidding their 
friend, the mayor, a proper farewell (including 
the half dollar) they ventured boldly forth. The 
valley led upward in what appeared to be a 
fairly passable road. Suddenly they came to the 
base of a perpendicular ledge of solid rock 
absolutely impassable. Here was a barrier not 
included in the guide's directions. Nothing 
could be done but to retrace a few steps to a 
point where a branch path led up the mountain- 
side to the left. It was a road evidently some- 
what travelled, but one pitied the unfortunates 
who were obliged to toil up the steep, rugged 
path more than once. It consisted largely of 
smooth, slippery rocks, dangerous to limb of 
horse and rider. The animals did nobly. 

At the top of the ridge a village appeared, 
whence might be gained some information re- 
garding roads. The occupants of this village 
were a most suspicious-looking lot, down to the 
very dogs. They were urgent in their invitation 
to the travellers to remain over night. But their 
sinister faces and overanxious expressions re- 
vealed too plainly the real desire for thieving, 
awakened by the sight of baggage and camp 
equipment. It was only by dint of much per- 

144 



The Oaks of Bashan 



suasion that a young fellow could be engaged to 
guide the party away from this malevolent com- 
munity to the desired destination. 

He knew his business well, conducting his 
followers over a path far from smooth and level, 
but leading through a most interesting section of 
country. For this is the great forest land of 
Syria. Here are the "oaks of Bashan," men- 
tioned by the prophets. 1 To one born and bred 
in forest-clad America it may seem strange to 
single out an oak-forest as a special theme for 
reflection. But ask the average Syrian where the 
woodlands are situated, and he may point to 
some clump of small firs or scrub-oaks, that 
would be unworthy of mention in the home- 
land. Even the famous "cedars of Lebanon" 
are now but an insignificant dot upon the bare 
mountain-side. Green hills and waving tree- 
tops are not now characteristic of the Holy 
Land, and the long stretches of brown, barren 
mountains are almost invariably a disappointment 
to the casual tourist. 

Not so, however, the "oaks of Bashan." 
Gilead is forest-clad in all its length and breadth. 
The travellers were privileged to enjoy a sight 
not soon to be forgotten. Their guide led them 

1 Isa. ii. 13; Ezek. xxvii. 6; Zech. xi. 2. 
345 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

by a narrow, crooked path through the wildest 
forest land to be found in all the country. The 
oaks were large and leafy, and their boughs at 
times almost intercepted the progress of the 
delighted tourists. Sometimes the path took 
them up steep hillsides, sometimes along beauti- 
ful, green valleys. Partridges abounded, but the 
dense woods were their protectors. Then, too, 
clouds had formed in the skies, and the burning 
heat of the morning had given way to acceptably 
cool shadows. 

What a grand place for a picnic in these east- 
ern woods! Not alone would the scenery please, 
but also many Biblical characters might in im- 
agination join the group. For the land of Gilead 
is the scene of much Bible history. Nineteenth 
century Sunday-school scholars might open their 
Bibles under the trees, and call up many a hero, 
whose reality had been dimmed by distance. 
Nor would the teachers object to a view of the 
Biblical panorama. 

First come the Midianite cameleers, who 
bought Joseph from his brethren, sold him to a 
high officer in Egypt, then returned to Gilead to 
load their camels once more with "spieery and 
balm and myrrh." 1 What questions would not 

1 Gen. xxxvii. 25, 
146 



The Oaks of Bashan 



Yankee curiosity contrive to ask them regarding 
the particulars of the lying deceit, whereby 
Joseph was taken down to Egypt! 

The panorama moves on to the time of the 
Judges. Behold a maiden wandering upon the 
mountain-tops amongst these wooded hills, clad 
in mourning robes, in evident grief and sorrow 
for some impending event. It is the daughter of 
Jephthah, the Gileadite. 1 He had driven the 
Ammonites from the land, and had vowed to 
sacrifice as a burnt-offering that which should 
first come forth from the door of his house upon 
his safe return. When his daughter, his only 
child, met him with timbrel and dance, his joy 
was turned to grief, as he saw the terrible out- 
come of his rash vow. 2 ' ' Alas, my daughter! 
thou hast brought me very low." Jephthah 
realized his misfortune in all its severity. Not 
only must he sacrifice his only child, but he 
thereby brought ignominious disgrace upon him- 
self for dying without posterity. To this day the 
perpetuity of an oriental family holds supreme 

1 Judges xi. i. 

2 While the theory of perpetual virginity has been offered by 
some eminent authorities in explanation of this difficult episode, 
yet their conclusions, however much to be desired, seem not 
sufficiently to accord with the Biblical statements and the exist- 
ing primitive conceptions of ethics and religion. 

J47 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

place in the plans of its members. The memory 
of Jephthah's glorious victories could not atone 
for the ignominy of a house blotted out. Hence 
his daughter, not questioning the propriety of the 
sacrifice, begged merely that it be postponed two 
months, that she might lament with her friends 
the doom of her father's house. Her fate, con- 
nected with the disgrace to Jephthah's memory, 
Tennyson has immortalized in verse in "A 
Dream of Fair Women," writing 

" of her that died 
To save her father's vow. 

My words leapt forth : 4 Heaven heads the count of 
crimes 

With that wild oath.' She render 'd answer high : 

' Not so, nor once alone ; a thousand times 

I would be born and die. 

My God, my land, my father — these did move 

Me from my bliss of life, that Nature gave, 

Lower'd softly with a threefold cord of love 

Down to a silent grave. 

And I went mourning, " No fair Hebrew boy 
Shall smile away my maiden blame among 
The Hebrew mothers " — emptied of all joy, 
Leaving the dance and song, 
Leaving the olive-gardens far below, 
Leaving the promise of my bridal-bower, 
The valleys of grape-loaded vines that glow 
Beneath the battled tower.' " 



" How beautiful a thing it was to die 
For God and for my sire ! " 
148 



The Oaks of Bashan 



Again the panorama rolls upon the scroll of 
time, and those woods resound with the din of 
battle. 1 Absalom, the usurper of David's throne 
in Jerusalem, has pursued his aged parent beyond 
the Jordan into the wooded slopes of Gilead. 
David is a fugitive before the face of his favorite 
son! How sad is this page of the sacred his- 
tory! Absalom's conspiracy had ripened, until 
his father had been obliged to flee from the holy 
city beyond the river, and there await the attack 
of his treacherous son. He had chosen his 
ground well. The entangled valleys and steep 
hillsides of Gilead, all covered with forest trees, 
were no place for the maneuvres of an army. 
David's tried and loyal bodyguard of six hundred 
chosen men were with him, 3 and thousands of the 
Giieadites fought for him, because they loved 
their king. He had many friends, who supplied 
the needs of him and his faithful followers. 

David himself, at the entreaty of his friends, 
remained in the city of Mahanaim, to await 
tidings of the battle. How did his paternal 
love shine forth! Confident in God's protecting 
power, his one thought was for his wayward 
son. " Deal gently for my sake with the young 
man, even with Absalom." 8 

1 2 Sam. xv., etc. 9 2 Sam. xv. 18. 3 2 Sam. xviii. 5 
149 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



The battle raged throughout all the forest, over 
hill and dale. The hosts of Absalom were over- 
thrown in their unequal contest against skill and 
nature combined. Twenty thousand men per- 
ished, most of them destroyed in the wild de- 
files of the mountain. "And the wood devoured 
more people that day than the sword devoured." 1 
Absalom became separated from his men and 
was obliged to flee precipitately. His abundant 
hair, 2 which had been his pride, became the cause 
of his destruction. In his wild flight through 
the woods his mule became unmanageable and 
dashed under a low-hanging bough. Absalom 
was left suspended, and entirely at the mercy of 
his enemies. A common soldier, coming upon 
him, respected the wish of David, and spared 
the life of the wretched son. He told Joab of 
the prince's plight, but was rebuked by him for 
thus dealing leniently with the king's greatest 
enemy. Joab himself hastened forward and 
killed Absalom in mid-air. The dead body was 
cut down and cast into a pit, and over it was 
raised a heap of stones, as a special mark of 
execration. 

Far different was this mean grave in the hidden 
forests of Gilead from the magnificent monu- 

1 2 Sam. xviii. 8. 2 2 Sam. xiv. 26. 

150 



The Oaks of Bashan 



ment which Absalom had erected for himself in 
the " king's dale." 1 Thus perished the beautiful 
son of David, beloved of his father even in the 
hour of rebellion. 

But how was Joab to inform David of his 
son's death ? He seemed to realize that he had 
acted under misguided zeal. When Ahimaaz, a 
young and special friend of the king, offered to 
bear the tidings of victory, Joab restrained him, 
and told a Cushite soldier 2 to run and tell what 
he had seen. After this man had started, Ahi- 
maaz again entreated Joab to let him go. He 
evidently knew the country better than the other, 
for he chose a better road and outran the other. 
Breathless from the violent pace, he entered the 
king's presence and announced a glorious vic- 
tory. David's mind was still preoccupied with 
thoughts of his son. " Is the young man Absa- 
lom safe?" The reply was characteristic of all 
such tidings even to this very time. It was 
deemed better to conceal the disaster with a 
half-truth, rather than to proclaim the real case. 
Many a falsehood is told in such circumstances, 
so that it is impossible to rely upon any message 
of safety and health. Ahimaaz thought to spare 
the feelings of his royal friend, and replied that 

1 2 Sam. xviii. 18. »2 Sam. xviii. 21. 

151 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

he had seen a great tumult, but had not compre- 
hended its meaning. 

The next messenger, however, bluntly replied 
to the same tender, eager inquiry, " The enemies 
of my lord the king, and all that rise against 
thee to do thee hurt, be as that young man is." 1 

Then the anxious father realized the truth of 
his son's destruction, and his heart overflowed in 
pathetic utterance. Where in all history can be 
found a more touching scene, and where its de- 
scription in more beautiful language: 

"And the king was much moved, and went up 
to the chamber over the gate and wept: and as 
he went, thus he said, O my son Absalom, my 
son, my son Absalom! would God I had died for 
thee, O Absalom, my son, my sonl" 

1 2 Sam. xviii. 32. 



152 



XIV 



CAMP AND CASTLE 

Experiences in new and untried mountain roads 
are not the least of the traveller's delights. All is 
fresh; nothing palls; the unexpected prevails. 
Each valley offers an ever-changing vista of scenic 
surprises. Each hilltop is a Pisgah of opportu- 
nity. Toward the end of the day's ride the im- 
agination outstrips the deliberate pace of the 
animals and in hope reaches the appointed camp- 
ing-place long before the time. Now and again 
it determines upon the spot, — surely just over 
the next hill, or around the bend in the road. 
Many are the mild disappointments. Then, in a 
moment of good-natured despair, the camp ap- 
pears, after all quite to the surprise of the 
tourist. 

The forest-clad hills of 'Ajlun afforded ample 
opportunity to the three travellers for indulgence 
in these varying sensations. The winding roads 
through the valleys were little paradises of green- 
ery, and from time to time, as the hilltops were 
reached, there came momentary glimpses of a 

153 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

rugged castle, half revealed through the interven- 
ing trees. 

The destination of the sightseers was the town 
of 'Ajlun (named after the district), but its exact 
location no one knew. At last they emerged 
from the dense forest of Gilead to a height, 
where a grand view was obtained. They stood 
on the brink of a great valley, which stretched 
far off to the southwest, and in the opposite di- 
rection broke into two forking valleys, — all cov- 
ered with oaks and pines and olives. To the 
right hand rose the sentinel castle, now close by 
and standing out against the clear, blue sky. At 
their feet, deep down in the beautiful valley, 
nestled the little village, where the camp was to 
be pitched for the night. 

The travellers ■ paused at this favored view- 
point to drink in the scene of mingled charm, 
beauty and sublimity. Then they followed the 
rapidly-descending path to an ideal camping- 
place. In the Christian quarter of the village, 
above the part occupied by the Moslems, a place 
was found for the tents amidst a number of noble 
olives, whose immense, gnarled trunks indicated 
great age. This spot, in its unadorned natural 
beauty, proved to be the choicest camping-place 
of the trip. What is more satisfying, more re- 

154 



Camp and Castle 

poseful, than the protecting shelter of a grove of 
olive-trees! The olive is the king (and queen) of 
Syrian trees;— king, by right of inherent strength 
and venerable age; queen, by reason of those 
gentler qualities of delicate refinement manifest 
in form and color. Mrs. Hemans in her apos- 
trophe to "The Olive" has beautified this 
thought with a woman's poetic touch in the line, 

" One shiver of thy leaves' dim silvery green," — 

and again, 

" But thou, pale Olive ! in thy branches lie 
Far deeper spells than prophet grave of old 
Might e'er enshrine." 

An olive branch, borne by a gentle dove, was 
once the messenger of peace on earth, — of wrath 
averted. The olives of Gethsemane, chosen, it 
might be, for their strength and sympathetic en- 
couragement, were the witnesses of the severest 
struggle ever known. Is it strange that these 
trees have a peculiar hold upon the affection of 
the people ? 

The advent of the tourists was the signal for a 
gathering of the villagers, who were not so much 
accustomed to tents and camps as to neglect the 
opportunity for a sight of them. One young 
man, who knew how to read, and exhibited a 
pleasing degree of politeness, became general 

155 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

purveyor to the party. He brought delicious 
milk and honey, and a bowl of leben, like that 
which Jael presented to Sisera in her tent. 1 
(This word is often blindly translated as 
"milk." 2 ) 

Water was brought in common pottery jars, 
such as have been used since the time of the 
Patriarchs. Solomon speaks of the "pitcher 
broken at the fountain." 3 Many a tearful maiden 
has returned to her house empty-handed, because 
the "pitcher "has been "broken at the fountain." 
No such misfortune befell the fair damsel who 
supplied the needs of the thirsty travellers. She 
had not far to go, and the water was abundant. 
How truly oriental was that picture ! A bright- 
eyed, clear-complexioned girl, with straight 
and well-formed figure, moving easily under the 
heavy weight of a large jar full of water, weighing 
nearly fifty pounds, and carried on the shoulder 
or the head, as it pleased the bearer. She was 
dressed in the Bedawy costume, adopted by the 
women of the district, with bare arms, and the 
loose sleeves caught together at the back. No 
cosmetics were needed to bring a rosy color to 

1 Judges iv. 19. 

2 Ex. iii. 8 ; Num. xiii. 27 ; Jer. xi. 5, etc. 

3 Eccl. xii. 6. 

156 



Camp and Castle 



those cheeks ! The exercise had done that. 
These oriental maidens know the drudgery of 
hard work and the comfort of excellent health. 
The carrying of the water is almost invariably a 
part of woman's work in this land. For this 
reason, when our Lord gave directions to His 
disciples as to how they should find the house 
where the Passover was to be eaten, He said, 
" Go ye into the city ; and there shall meet you a 
man bearing a pitcher of water: follow him." 1 
That man, carrying a jar of water on his shoulder, 
was a marked man, even in the motley crowd 
which thronged Jerusalem at the great feast. He 
was doing woman's work. 

An interesting Biblical courtship was forwarded 
by means of a pottery water jar. 2 Isaac must 
needs have a wife from among his own kindred 
in far-away Haran, and a trusted servant was 
despatched to make the proposal (by proxy). 
One is reminded of the stereotyped phrase in the 
" Court and Personal" of the London Times, — 
" A marriage has been arranged and will shortly 
take place between, etc., etc." In this instance 
the high contracting parties did not figure in 
drawing-room gossip. One was the son of a 
desert shiekh, and the other a maiden, who took 

1 Mark xiv. 13. 2 Gen. xxiv. 14-67. 

157 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



her place daily in the line of women, who "at 
the time of the evening went out to draw water." 1 
Rebekah had done this, doubtless, many times 
before. One evening she found a stranger at the 
well, with ten camels in his train. She came, 
bearing "her pitcher upon her shoulder," "and 
she went down to the well " (probably excavated 
below the surface of the surrounding land), " and 
filled her pitcher, and came up." She swung the 
heavy jar up to its place on her shoulder, and 
would have returned home, had not the stranger 
requested a drink. "And she said, Drink, my 
lord: and she hasted, and let down her pitcher 
upon her hand, and gave him a drink." 

True to life is this scene ! Not a line need be 
changed. One foot is slightly raised from the 
ground, and the jar is lowered to the bended knee. 
It is there steadied with one hand under it and 
the other grasping one of the small handles, and 
by a dextrous motion the outstretched palms of 
the thirsty servant are filled, and he sips the re- 
freshing water. 

A pottery water jar might be considered at the 
farthest remove from romance. But Cupid is a 
blind little archer. His shafts often take erratic 
flights. 

1 Gen. xxiv. II. 
158 



Camp and Castle 

After the sun had set, the tourists sat about the 
camp table, eating an appetizing supper, and not 
at all embarrassed by the assembled villagers, 
who whispered their comments on the scene. 
The flickering candles lit up the surrounding 
gloom in wierd fashion. Bending boughs and 
knotted trunks appeared like spectres in the semi- 
darkness, while the interested onlookers, of 
whom the travellers could discern but the front 
row distinctly, brought to mind the face of the 
Cheshire cat in "Alice in Wonderland." 

The first watch of the night fell to the " other- 
wise man." As he paced back and forth among 
the olives, he had ample opportunity to reflect 
upon the history, sacred and secular, which is 
connected with this district, and more especially 
the romantic record of the deadly struggle be- 
tween Crusader and Saracen. His thoughts 
turned to the castle up on the neighboring hill, 
ruined now and invisible in the black darkness of 
a cloudy night. Would that this stronghold of 
Christianity might divulge its secrets! 

The day dawned, and the travellers prepared to 
visit the castle of Rubud. They engaged the 
services of a lithe and long-limbed guide, whose 
rapid pace up from the town of 'Ajlun did not 
interfere with his conversational powers, Al- 

159 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

though the massive, ruined pile had seemed near 
enough to the party, as they gazed at it leisurely 
from the tents, the ascent was long and required 
nearly an hour. But once arrived, all effort was 
amply repaid. Could a grander site have been 
found for this castle than the summit of the noble 
peak, which towers above all its surroundings ! 
The Crusaders realized the strategic value of this 
lofty eminence, and built upon it one of their most 
imposing structures. 

From this point they could send the gleam of the 
nightly signal fires far across the country to the 
fortress of Belvoir to Tiberias, and further north 
to Safed and other points. By day they could 
scan the surrounding country and quickly discern 
the approach of a band or army, be they friend 
or foe, advancing from any direction. Thus 
they could gain time to prepare for siege. 

Perhaps these stern warriors had no inclination 
to enjoy the beauties of nature. But there was 
a panorama spread before them almost unequalled 
in extent and grandeur. At their feet lay the 
beautiful, green valley, with its stream of glis- 
tening water, here and there a village peering out 
from amidst a bower of green trees. All about 
were the grand forests of Gilead, rustling in 
the gentle breeze, or bending to the raging storms. 

160 



Camp and Castle 

To the north rose mighty Hermon, far, far away, 
only a white outline against the blue sky. Nearer 
by shimmered the sea of Galilee, and the Jordan 
revealed itself in its winding way. All the west- 
ern hills and mountains appeared, and Moab to 
the south, and even the Dead Sea could be seen 
spreading over the southern plain. 

All these magnificent views remain unchanged ; 
but the castle has succumbed to the ravages of 
time, and tells a tale of vanished greatness. Yet 
notwithstanding decay and fallen walls, it well 
repays a visit. The whole structure is sur- 
rounded by a deep, wide moat, cut out of the 
living rock. The one-time drawbridge, by 
which the great doorway of the castle was once 
approached, is no longer in existence, but 
grooved stones above the doorway mark its 
former place and way of operation. Now a rude 
bridge of stones affords means of entrance to 
shepherds and chance visitors. In one recess of 
the walls, inside the moat, a great cistern was 
built, and the water from the roofs of the castle 
was conducted into this, so that the occupants of 
the fortress might sustain a long siege. 

The vast building was wonderfully well 
adapted to its purpose. It was not merely a sin- 
gle castle, but a series of castles within castles. 

161 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

A powerful enemy might withstand the flights of 
deadly arrows from the slotted walls; might 
throw up a temporary bridge across the moat; 
might storm the castle and capture the entrance; 
and what would they find ? A blank wall of 
immense thickness and a second doorway and 
portcullis even stronger than the first. This, too, 
might yield, and a third one would bar further 
progress. The whole structure is a network of 
intricate passages, and the massive walls and 
towers show the resisting power of a beleaguered 
guard. 

One wonders, as he stands amidst the ruins, 
what power could cope with, much less over- 
come, a force stationed within those bulwarks. 
Nevertheless the Saracen conquered the Crusader 
and drove him from the land. What must have 
been the emotions of the besieged Franks, as they 
beheld their swarthy foemen advance step by 
step, taking first the outworks, then the bridge, 
and one by one the labyrinth of passages, which 
led to the keep, the last stronghold of the castle! 
With what a shout of triumph would the Moslem 
hordes dash into that final refuge, there to meet 
and massacre the remnant of the brave band of 
Christian defenders! 

Rubud castle, with many other fortresses in 

162 



Camp and Castle 



the land, marks the era when Christianity tried 
by might to regain the sacred places of the Holy 
Land. Does not history prove the futility of 
their efforts ? They attempted by military prow- 
ess to gain a land. Did not the three mission- 
aries, as they stood above the ruined monument 
of man's misguided endeavor, represent peaceful 
forces, — schools and hospitals and evangelical 
churches, — which shall some day gain a people, 
and thus conquer gloriously in a conflict which 
could not be settled by force of arms ? The Mo- 
hammedans have no weapons which will avail in 
this new warfare. They are now the belea- 
guered ones and already the portcullis has been 
surrendered. The fortress must fall ere long. 

The travellers descended from their lofty view- 
point and made their way back to the olive 
grove. The camp was ready to move, and the 
party set out on the eastern road. 



163 



XV 



A HALT AT MIZPAH 

The morning was well advanced, when the 
travellers left 'Ajlun, after the visit to the castle. 
Their way led through delightful territory. A 
little out of 'Ajlun they passed Ain Jenneh, — a 
paradise of huge walnut-trees, which formed 
a shady bower above copious springs of pure 
water. Thence they passed along gently rising 
ground, in a cool valley bounded by forests, 
where fallen leaves and moss-covered logs in- 
vited them to rest. Out of the valley they passed 
on to the summit of a high ridge, whence a 
grand view met their eyes. They could see far 
away into the desert and northeast toward the 
Druze mountains. 

Traces of the old Roman thoroughfare ap- 
peared, beside the modern path. Now impass- 
able, it was once a great highway to Gerasa and 
the east. At the eastern foot of the ridge the 
riders passed under a telegraph line with some- 
thing of the feelings of escaping prisoners. It 
seemed to mark the boundary between the land 

164 



A Halt at Mizpah 

of governmental restraint and the wilderness of 
freedom. 

After another half hour they came to the 
squalid and ill-favored town of Suf, where more 
than one traveller has endured inconvenience and 
insult at the hands of the lawless inhabitants. 
The village is situated high up on a commanding 
site, though many of the people live in caves in 
the hillside. The place was wretchedly dirty; 
poverty was prevalent; the cattle were relics of 
the " seven years of want." This unsavory place 
was passed in safety, and the travellers halted 
just beyond, in full view of the town and its 
surroundings. The lunch boxes were opened 
under some convenient olive-trees. 

Here, too, is a favorable spot to study a page 
of patriarchal history. For the town of Suf, ac- 
cording to the prevailing opinion among modern 
explorers and archaeologists, marks the site of 
Mizpah. If this conjecture be true (and it is not 
the province of this little book to be a judge), 
then the tourists were indeed treading historic 
ground. In the earlier Old Testament history the 
name of Mizpah calls up the record of Jacob's 
life, than which there is none more interesting 
among the early Bible characters. 

Mizpah, or Mizpeh, gives the meaning of 

165 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



"beacon," or "watch-tower," and was the 
meeting-place between Jacob and his father-in- 
law, Laban. Jacob had served him for twenty 
years, and finally desired to leave the avaricious, 
unprincipled farmer. 1 Laban refused to give 
consent, hence Jacob was obliged to use his 
wits. He called his wives, 2 Leah and Rachel, 
away from their father's tent to the place where 
he was keeping his flocks, distant three days' 
journey. Rachel took with her her father's 
household gods, — the penates, — but secretly. 
Then Jacob hurriedly packed up his goods, 
started his flocks and herds toward the Eu- 
phrates, and "stole away unawares to Laban 
the Syrian." Laban, who had been away shear- 
ing his sheep, did not hear of Jacob's defection, 
until three days had passed. Realizing that his 
recent good fortune had been due to Jacob's 
presence, he hastily organized a posse and pur- 
sued after him. Although Jacob had a start of 
three days, his progress was retarded by the 
sheep and cattle. Laban overtook him after 
seven days in "the mount of Gilead." 

There he attempted to upbraid his more honor- 
able son-in-law. He mingled reproaches for the 
secret departure with hints of illegal abduction 

1 Gen. xxx. 25. 2 Gen. xxxi. 4. 

166 



A Halt at Mizpah 



and tender utterances of parental affection. He 
asserted that he would like to have sent him 
away with music and mirth. But the crushing 
accusation was reserved till the end of the pas- 
sionate, dramatic outburst. With biting sarcasm 
he flung the question at Jacob, " Wherefore hast 
thou stolen my gods ? " Search was made, but 
the teraphim were not found. 1 Thereupon Jacob 
in his turn rose to the heights of oratory. Con- 
scious of his innocence, he recounted his harsh 
treatment, and his own faithful service. For 
twenty years he had endured the heat of day and 
frost of night; sleep had been denied him; his 
had been the responsibility for every untoward 
accident to flock or herd; he had served fourteen 
years for his wives and six for his possessions; 
and his wages had been changed ten times. 

Truly oriental is this scene! It may be dupli- 
cated at any time and. in any place. Doubtless 
the , conference began in mild tones, then in- 
creased in vehemence of speech and gesture, 
until at the culminating point the two main actors 
were face to face and vigorously gesticulating, 
while their retainers had gathered about them in 
wordy sympathy. 

Laban was defeated in the oratorical contest, — 

»Gen. xxxi. 34, 35. 
167 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



requiring only a pledge of future good-treatment 
to his daughters. He also extracted a promise 
that there should be no war between the two. 
Laban seemed to surmise Jacob's future great- 
ness, and feared lest his son-in-law should march 
against him and take vengeance for ill-treatment 
during the days of menial service. He proposed 
a covenant, to which Jacob readily agreed. A 
rough heap of stones was thrown up on some 
high point and given the name of Mizpah. " For 
he said, The Lord watch between me and 
thee, when we are absent one from another." 1 
Each one was thus " bound over to keep the 
peace." Early on the following morning Laban 
arose, kissed his daughters and their children, 
blessed the whole company, and departed to his 
far-away home. 

[Now it is by a remarkable liberty in the use of 
Bible texts that the words of this covenant have 
been made a familiar and much-loved watch- 
word in Christian societies and gatherings. But 
the words (beautiful and appropriate in them- 
selves) have doubtless been dissociated from their 
exegetical connections and made to serve a nobler 
purpose.] 

When Jacob had concluded this prudent ar- 

1 Gen. xxxi. 49. 
168 



A Halt at Mizpah 

rangement with his father-in-law, he passed on 
from Mizpah, probably congratulating himself on 
the happy issue of this family difficulty. He had 
been the aggrieved party, and his mind was at 
rest. As he journeyed in slow caravan from 
point to point, through the mountain ranges of 
Gilead, and emerged upon the open plain, the 
record says "the angels of God met him." 1 Per- 
haps he may have been gazing abroad from some 
eminence with righteous self-complacency over 
his numerous flocks and herds spread out in the 
broad valley and on the open pasture land. Sud- 
denly his gaze was directed to the open skies. 
There, as if encamped in the free air of heaven, 
were two hosts of angels, clad in glistening ap- 
parel, — a wonderful and inspiring sight. This 
double camp of heavenly protectors gave name 
to the place where Jacob saw them, — Mahanaim, — 
and afforded renewed assurance that God's host 
is ever near in time of trial and danger. 

But this vision also awakened guilty recollec- 
tions in Jacob's mind. His conscience was ill at 
ease, as he thought of his old offence against his 
brother, Esau. In this case there were no ex- 
tenuating circumstances. Jacob by trickery had 
wronged his elder brother. And now Esau in 

1 Gen. xxxii. I. 
169 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



the land of Edom had become wealthy and 
powerful. Years had elapsed since the unlawful 
taking of the parental blessing, and no intima- 
tion of reconciliation had ever come from the 
wild hunter. Jacob deemed it prudent to send 
messengers to his brother, both to ascertain the 
probable danger and to conciliate Esau, if possi- 
ble. 1 What, then, was the surprise and distress, 
when his envoys returned without the usual 
counter-greeting, and the sinister report that 
Esau was advancing to meet him with four 
hundred warlike men, — a roving band of free- 
booters, who might easily overwhelm him and 
his possessions in rant and destruction! Jacob, 
never a man of war, had recourse in his fear to 
stratagem and wise planning. He divided his 
possessions into two parts, so that, if one should 
be captured, the other might escape. Then he 
betook himself to prayer. This led him to the 
use of other means, not of defence, but rather of 
conciliatory persuasion. He prepared a large 
present for Esau, which he sent forward in sec- 
tions, that he might win his brother's heart. 

This accomplished, and the flocks and herds 
sent forward, Jacob waited till the stillness of 
midnight had settled upon hill and dale, and all 

1 Gen. xxxii. 3. 
170 



A Halt at Mizpah 

nature animate and inanimate had sunk to restful 
slumber. Then he arose, quietly sent his own 
family across the Jabbok at the ford, and himself 
returned to pass a sleepless night in conflict with 
distress and grave apprehension. 

But ere he was aware, a greater contest was 
upon him. He felt the grasp of a strong hand, 
and, fearing lest it might be one of the expected 
enemy, he arose and grappled with the stranger. 
The struggle continued until break of day re- 
vealed the identity of the unknown wrestler. 
Then the angel exerted his superhuman power 
and quickly disabled his persistent antagonist. 
Jacob, conquered in body and humbled in spirit, 
was not willing to lose a victory. He asked for 
a blessing and received it in change of name, — 
Israel, " a prince of God." All his fear now van- 
ished. 

" Contented now, upon my thigh 

I halt till life's short journey end ; 
All helplessness, all weakness I 

On Thee alone for strength depend." — Wesley. 

At sunrise Jacob advanced in all confidence to 
meet Esau and his troop. He arranged his family 
with Rachel and Joseph in the rear. Advancing 
before them all, he "bowed himself to the ground 
seven times, until he came near to his brother." 

171 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

This obeisance, like modern profuse salaams, was 
made with bent head and body and graceful 
sweep of the arm, as the person advanced. 
"And Esau ran to meet him, and embraced 
him, and fell on his neck, and kissed him: and 
they wept. Esau, forgetful of his anger and his 
threats, was entirely overcome. ''They both 
wept." Brotherly love and long absence had 
swept away all angry feelings. They only re- 
membered they were brothers. Twins in birth, 
they are united again." 1 

The sentimental manifestations of affection de- 
scribed in this connection are worthy of note. It 
is even now the custom for men to embrace one 
another, kiss each other's cheeks (lips never 
meet), and weep copiously. No words could 
better describe the realistic action of an eastern 
embrace than those used, "he fell on his neck 
and kissed him." 

Another custom, aptly illustrated in this meet- 
ing of the two brothers, is, in Esau's positive 
refusal of Jacob's gift, the subsequent urging of 
its acceptance, and the final yielding to entreaty. 
The gift was a very large one, — every gift in this 
country is large. Anything less than a donkey- 
load of dried figs, or a supply of rose-water suf- 

1 Harper : The Bible and Modern Discoveries. 
172 



A Halt at Mizpah 

ficient for two years, or a nosegay of flowers the 
size of a cabbage, would stigmatize the giver as 
stingy. Quantity, not quality, rules. Esau felt 
obliged to refuse the munificent gift of animals, 
in order to satisfy social custom. (Doubtless he 
fully expected to take it eventually.) By so do- 
ing he could mention incidentally, that he had 
sufficient of his own. Nor would it be polite to 
manifest a desire for the offering. Jacob on his 
part was in duty bound to urge the acceptance 
of his gift. The Bible sums it all up in four 
verses. 1 But in all probability the transaction 
consumed a good half hour. (The discussion of 
a simple supper invitation has been known to 
occupy as much as this.) 

Finally Esau with gracious condescension took 
over the prize, inwardly pleased at the large ad- 
dition to his possessions, outwardly manifest- 
ing no emotion of any kind. Gifts in this land 
are received with benumbing coldness and no 
expression of thanks. Otherwise the recipient 
would appear to show undue desire for more. 
The oriental definition of "gratitude" is "a 
lively sense of favors to come." Hence gratitude 
should be outwardly suppressed. Let it not be 
thought, however, that the gift goes wholly un- 

* Gen. xxxiii. 8-1 1. 
173 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

noticed. A return is always made, equal, if not 
larger, than the original. The basket, which 
brought grapes, is filled with figs. A present of 
raisins draws forth a iarger gift of pulse. 1 

When the gift had been properly transferred, 
then Esau extended a polite invitation to his 
brother to return home with him to Seir. Jacob 
prudently declined this offer, though the text 2 
would seem to indicate a courteous and consid- 
erate acceptance. It is easily explained by cur- 
rent customs. Esau's invitation was probably 
quite as superficial as was Jacob's evasive ac- 
ceptance of it. Each party fully realized, too, the 
other's polite, but meaningless, motives. Such 
interchange of customary courtesies is common 
among all classes in the Orient. How many 
other customs have descended from the days of 
the Patriarchs, who can tell ? 

The travellers left the heights of Suf and 
descended into a wide valley, whose innumer- 
able olive-trees softened the landscape with their 
pleasing tints. At the other side of this sea of 
green a village appeared, and there began a 
broad, open plain, which swept southward 
toward the Jabbok river. The riders hurried on- 
ward, for the elements looked unpropitious. 

1 Dan. i. 12. 8 Gen. xxxiii. 12-17. 

174 



A Halt at Mizpah 

Thus far the rain-god had been exceedingly 
kind in withholding his stored-up waters. Now, 
however, the heavens were lowering, and black 
clouds hung in the darkened skies. 

But the great impelling motive was their near- 
ness to Jerash. Another hour of travel would 
certainly bring them to the journey's end amidst 
its fallen buildings. How many and how great 
were their anticipations as they drew nigh to the 
city of ruins! "Jerash" had been a name upon 
their lips and in their deepest thoughts and high- 
est hopes from the very inception of the journey. 
It had seemed discouragingly distant, hidden by 
almost insurmountable hills of difficulty. Once 
the quest had been quite abandoned, when heat 
and apprehension had turned the tourists toward 
Galilee. Now, however, they were nearing the 
acme of their desires. 



175 



XVI 



JERASH, THE MAGNIFICENT CITY 

Eagerly did the expectant tourists traverse the 
rolling plain to the southward. Their thoughts 
were all upon what was before them. How 
would Jerash appear as it was approached from 
the north? Could it be the little town on the 
brow of that distant hill ? Would it repay all this 
toil and expense ? How much further off was it ? 

Suddenly, as a rising knoll was surmounted, 
there came into view in the plain before them 
such a picture as may not often be spread before 
the traveller's gaze. Like some well-set scene 
of surpassing grandeur, appearing before an ex- 
pectant audience, as the curtain rolls slowly up- 
ward, did Jerash, the magnificent city, silently 
greet the eyes of the tourists, as they waited, 
almost with reverence, to drink in the marvels 
of the wonderful revelation. There, at their 
very feet, lay the city of columns, stretching off 
into the distance, its temples and its theatres, its 
colonnaded avenues and triumphal arches, stand- 
ing in majestic outline, oppressive in motionless 

176 



Jerash, the Magnificent City- 
silence. It might have been a painting on can- 
vas, — so fixed, so dead. 

There came to mind a youthful visit to a gigan- 
tic panorama of a famous battle of the Civil War. 
The mountain-side was there, the trees, the 
copse, the rail fence, the rivulet, the smoke of 
battle settling in dark line upon the scene. The 
officers with brandished swords were bravely urg- 
ing their men forward into the face of belching 
cannon, into the jaws of death. Here and there 
a brave comrade was falling, mortally wounded, 
and the blood was staining the ground where he 
fell. Flags were fluttering in the breeze. Every 
line indicated intense action and energy, — but all 
was as still and unchanging as death. The scene 
was appalling from its very fixedness! 

So the afternoon sun of that memorable day 
shone down upon a scene marvellous in magnifi- 
cence, overwhelming in silent solitude. How 
came that hermit city to exist off there on the 
edge of the desert? Whose genius planned 
those elaborate buildings and well-laid avenues ? 
Whose wealth was poured into those massive 
piles of stone work ? Whose hands wrought 
out those delicate traceries in extended friezes 
and lofty capitals ? Whose strength was given 
to rear those gigantic columns ? 

177 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Some of these questions history answers. 
Others must be left to the imagination to fill out 
in reply. 

Gerasa was a grand city in its day. "One of 
the ten cities of Decapolis. It existed during the 
first centuries of our era. Its days of surpassing 
grandeur and architectural activity were in the 
second and third century after Christ. It was 
one of the famous Greek colonies, dependent for 
its beauty upon the successors of Phideas and 
Praxiteles; but it owed its very existence to the 
iron rule of an all-conquering Roman power. 
By order of the Roman emperors royal roads had 
been made, connecting this city of the east with 
western civilization. No expense was spared to 
build a city magnificent in its proportions. Acre 
upon acre of finely-wrought, massively-con- 
structed buildings filled the plain. Round about 
the whole stretched the wall,— -a mighty bulwark 
in itself. 

Who could exaggerate the grandeur of the 
ancient city, when its ruins excite unbounded 
surprise and admiration! No other ruins in all 
Syria (unless Palmyra be an exception) cover 
such a great extent of ground. Over three hun- 
dred columns still stand, — and they are but a 
fraction of the whole! 

178 



Jerash, the Magnificent City 

This mighty result in stone was accom- 
plished largely by slave labor, — by forced draft. 
How many of them were Jews, how many 
Christians, who can tell ? The remark of one of 
the trio was eminently true, "These buildings 
were not erected by subscription." The rather, 
by conscription. When the hidden page of his- 
tory shall reveal the labor, the toil, the suffering, 
ithe stripes, the agonies endured by overworked 
slaves of all nations, the price of those structures 
will not seem overvalued, " a stone for a life." 
The roll of the martyrs, read in the courts of 
heaven, may contain many names of steadfast 
believers, who died for their Lord in menial 
service at Gerasa in rearing a wonderful city 
for the proud and tyrannical Greeks and Ro- 
mans. 

Little did those imperial colonists realize that 
the ruins of their magnificence should one 
day serve a company of Christians, not for 
work, but for convenience. The three tour- 
ists, speculating as to the best place in Jerash in 
which to spread their tents, passed down the 
broad plain, where flowed a little stream, its 
banks lined with oleanders, which in their season 
make the scene beautiful with rich color. They 
crossed over the north wall of the city, — no 

179 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

longer a barrier, — and rode up to the first great 
pile, the ruins of a noble theatre. 

A Greek theatre of the ancient type forms a 
capital camping-place for modern travellers. His- 
torically it awakens myriad thoughts of regal 
splendor and Christian martyrdom. Practically 
it lends itself to the real necessities of the tourists 
in affording shade and shelter, semi-seclusion, 
and excellent stabling for the animals. Incon- 
gruous as this may sound, — a grand theatre re- 
duced to the level of tourists' conveniences, — yet 
so it was. Camp was pitched in the midst of the 
open arena. Round about on three sides rose the 
semicircle of stone benches, in sixteen tiers, one 
above another, capable of seating three or four 
thousand spectators. In the Orient, where no 
rain falls from May to October, the people could 
gather in the theatres with the vault of heaven for 
a roof. Light awnings were stretched above the 
seats, to protect the favored ones from the sun. 
The sockets in the stones to hold the poles of 
the awnings may still be seen. 

The proscenium was very low, with a backing 
of detached columns. This is now filled with 
dirt and rubbish, and the rude farmers of the dis- 
trict have laid it out in terraces for sowing, hop- 
ing for a little profit amidst the wrecks of time. 

180 



Jerash, the Magnificent City 

Part way up the rows of benches a narrow aisle 
ran about the semicircle, connected by five 
arched exits with the inner vaulted passage built 
beneath the upper tiers of seats. Under the low- 
est row, at each end, are certain dark cellars or 
vaulted rooms, manifestly used in their day to 
contain the wild beasts for the shows. 

The travellers reached this desirable camping- 
place early in the afternoon, with ample time to 
pitch tents and stake out the animals on one of 
the terraces in the midst of this oriental scene. 
Eagerly they mounted the narrow benches and 
walked about them, wondering at their solidity 
and capacity. They guessed at the use made of 
the shell-shaped niches about the aisle leading to 
the seats. Were they to contain busts of the 
idol gods, or were they for the burning of 
incense ? They passed through the " vomitoria" 
to the great vaulted semicircle, where the noble 
Romans were wont to stroll "between the acts.'' 
Surely this was a unique camping-place. 

Yet this theatre was but a small sample of 
what was to be seen further on. At a stone's 
throw distant, on the highest eminence in the 
plain, were the ruins of a majestic temple. This 
was doubtless the crowning feature of all the 
architectural marvels found in the once-favored 

181 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

city. This temple was probably dedicated to the 
sun, facing, as it does, toward the east. The 
walls are still standing, and enclose a rectangle 
about seventy-five feet long by sixty-five wide. 
The temple was originally enclosed by a colon- 
nade, but many of the columns have fallen. The 
portico, however, still merits its meed of praise. 
It is approached by broad steps, and consists of 
three rows of columns in the Corinthian style, all 
of colossal proportions. The front row now shows 
five of the original six columns. These stand 
out against the sky from every view-point. The 
other two rows each had four, but two of the 
inner ones are down. Of the thousands of 
columns, which once adorned the beautiful city, 
none were larger than these, which upheld the 
portico of the great temple of the sun. They 
are thirty-eight feet high, and fully six feet in 
diameter, and the carved capitals are beautifully 
wrought in acanthus foliage. In comparison 
with these gigantic monuments of bygone great- 
ness, what a pigmy does man appear, with his 
possible six feet of stature! 

The site of the temple was not chosen by 
chance. It is a well-selected platform whence a 
marvellous panorama greets the eye. A forest of 
standing columns fills the plain. It seemed to 

182 



Jerash, the Magnificent City 

the "otherwise man" as if some giant had 
passed that way and sown broadcast the germ- 
seeds, which had sprung up into a plentiful 
harvest of columns. 

From north to south stretches a well-paved 
boulevard, lined on either side by mighty 
columns, whose number may have reached a 
thousand. This avenue is intercepted by cross- 
streets at intervals, and ends in a great circle of 
columns joined by an entablature. Special atten- 
tion was given by the tourists to this long 
colonnaded avenue. Think of a boulevard half- 
a-mile in length, flanked on either side by mighty 
pillars joined one to the other by beautifully 
carved blocks fully fifteen feet long! At the 
street intersection are ruins of what must have 
been a massive vaulted dome, with niches in the 
walls for statues of their gods. At one point the 
street widens on the left-hand side into the shape 
of a semicircular room. The columns have 
there given place to a wall, which is most pro- 
fusely and exquisitely carved. The stone work 
in this room was the most beautiful seen in all 
Syria. Further on two or three very beautiful 
fluted pillars were found, of a delicate pinkish 
hue, the lines running about the shafts in a 
spiral. The great circle at the end of this avenue 

183 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

must have consisted of fully seventy-five or 
eighty pillars, — a grand forum. 

The cross streets led to bridges, which spanned 
the stream. One of these is still used for pas- 
sage. All the avenues were flanked by beautiful 
structures, either dwelling houses or public 
buildings, whose floors were laid with rich 
mosaic. The little cubes, which composed 
these mosaics, may now be gathered all along 
the way. 

South of the forum-like enclosure, on rising 
ground, is a second temple, smaller than the 
first, with many delicately-carved pillars. An- 
other theatre stands beside it. The close prox- 
imity of temple and theatre was not then con- 
sidered inconsistent. The ancient Greeks loved 
games and plays as they loved their gods. This 
theatre was capable of seating six thousand spec- 
tators. 

But no such numbers could now be found in 
this vicinity, even were the theatre in readiness 
to receive them. The only residents of this 
once-famous city are a few imported Circassians, 
who have obligingly built their houses across the 
stream in the eastern quarter of the town, and 
have not disturbed the grand array of ruins 
to the west, except as they have taken some of 

184 



SOUTHERN END OF COLONNADE AVENUE 




THE FORUM AT JERASH 



Jerash, the Magnificent City 

the carved and shaped stone, with which to 
build houses for themselves. One beautiful cap- 
ital was seen beside the southern temple, 
hollowed out inside and its exquisite carving of 
acanthus leaves chipped off, to* make, forsooth, a 
circular opening for some cistern! 

Further to the south, and beyond the city gate 
proper, is a noble, triumphal arch in the form of 
a handsome, triple gateway, erected in honor of 
some magnate in the time of Trajan or later. 
Near by is a great basin, once used for miniature 
sea-fights, whose water supply came through 
a conduit, which remains in a fair state of 
preservation. This naumachia was mani- 
festly a favorite resort of the time-burdened 
Greeks, — if the rows of seats all about it are an 
evidence. 

Beyond this for nearly a mile ruins of houses, 
tombs and other structures may be traced, but 
nothing of any (comparative) importance ap- 
pears. 

It is well for the fortunate few, who are able 
to reach this city of ruins, that Jerash is situated 
beyond the confines of an inquisitive civilization. 
Distance and difficulty of access have tended 
to produce somewhat the result of the lava over- 
flows upon Pompeii. Man's genius for change 

185 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

and improvement, or for pillage and destruction, 
has been restrained. Jerash may be cited as an 
example of natural decay. To all appearances 
it has been left uninhabited for centuries, and all 
changes must be credited to natural agencies. 
Sun and rain have done their work well ; earth- 
quake shocks have wrought havoc amongst the 
stately buildings, and scattered the columns right 
and left ; and Time, the insidious destroyer, has 
brought low those proud edifices, erected to 
withstand all enemies. 

Night settled upon the camp in the theatre. The 
" otherwise man " kept the watch from midnight 
and onward. As he paced back and forth on the 
highest tier of benches, the sight of the late-rising 
moon, fast waning in its reflected glory, brought 
to mind the reality of the weird scene about him. 
Those dimly-lighted piles and faintly-glimmering 
columns were the waning, vanishing evidence of 
a former magnificence and grandeur foreign to 
this land in the present generation. 

The accompanying outline (from survey by 
Kiepert) gives an idea of the form and vast extent 
of the ruins of Jerash. 

The following extended extracts from Keith's 
" Land of Israel" (written in 1843), are here in- 
serted, not only because of the intrinsic merit of 

186 




Copyright 1900, by Fleming H.Revell Company. , aoRHAjf 4-co., engr'8, n.y. 



Jerash, the Magnificent City 

the descriptions, but also in corroboration of 
foregoing statements. 

"Scarcely anywhere are ruins to be found 
which outvie those of Jerash, supposed to be the 
ancient Gerasa. Fallen as they are, enough is left 
to prove that the banks of a streamlet were so 
enriched and adorned, as to challenge in their 
magnificence, though in ruins, any spot in Europe, 
the most richly garnished with princely edifices. 
Lofty columns generally pertain only to palaces or 
temples or other public buildings. But the streets 
of Jerash were lined with colonnades from end 
to end, and opened a way to public edifices, which 
yet lost not their distinction, while statelier or 
finer columns were doubled or multiplied around 
them. 

"An arched gateway, facing the chief street, 
leads to the splendid remains of a magnificent 
temple, such as few countries could have ever 
shown. The base of the edifice is now covered 
with its fallen roof. Three of the walls still stand, 
showing the niches for images. The front of the 
temple was adorned with a noble portico, with 
three rows of grand Corinthian columns thirty- 
five or forty feet in height, the capitals of which 
are beautifully ornamented with acanthus leaves. 
The spacious area within which it stood were 

187 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

surrounded in like manner by a double row of 
columns, the total number of which, that origi- 
nally adorned the temple and its area, was 
not less than two hundred or two hundred and 
fifty. 

" In the construction of the city and the position 
of its principal edifices, now the monument of its 
glory, nature has been seconded or followed by 
art. An eminence on one end of the city, op- 
posite to the termination of the grand street which 
led to the other, was the site both of a temple and 
of a theatre, which were placed in pagan juxtapo- 
sition. The low hill on which they stood was 
connected with the princely street by a magnifi- 
cent semicircle of Ionic columns, embracing an 
open space at its base, fifty-seven of which are 
still standing, their height having been varied with 
the rising ground to give a uniform level to the 
whole entablature. The immense theatre, larger 
than that of Bacchus at Athens, and estimated as 
having been capable of containing eight thousand 
spectators, was partly cut out of the rock and 
partly built; the front wall, or proscenium, is very 
perfect, and embellished within by five richly- 
decorated niches, which are connected together 
by a line of columns, of which there is another 
parallel range within. 

188 



Jerash, the Magnificent City 

" Beside it are the remains of a beautiful temple, 
ornamented with pilasters surmounted by Co- 
rinthian capitals; without, it was surrounded by 
a grand peristyle of the same order. Now in the 
words of Lord Claude Hamilton, 'the columns, 
capitals, and cornice all lie confusedly in a com- 
mon ruin. The view from this spot is still most 
wonderful, but in the days of Gerasa's glory it 
must have been a spectacle of unequalled mag- 
nificence. The whole town, including a vast 
area, and surrounded by an immense wall, is at 
your feet. Immediately below is the noble Ionic 
crescent, from the centre of which the main street 
extends. Of the continued line of columns on 
each side, now eighty-three only are standing 
with their entablatures, but portions and pedes- 
tals of the remainder are clearly visible. Around 
them, on every side, are confused heaps of well- 
cut stone, and piles of ruins which have only 
fallen from the violence of ruthless barbarism. 
These columns, raising their slender forms among 
the general wreck, and stretching in so long a 
line amid the remains of former magnificence, 
produce an effect which nothing in Italy, Greece, 
or Egypt has yet presented to me. To the right, 
the noble temple first mentioned stands against 
the sight, displaying the beautiful proportions of 

189 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

its matchless portico, and in every direction, 
columns, colonnades, and massive walls attest the 
wealth, the power, and the taste that once dwelt 
in this desolate spot, and read a lesson to human 
vanity that cannot readily be forgotten.' " 



190 



XVII 



A GREWSOME BEDCHAMBER 

Drip,— drip,— drip; — disquieting dreams and 
fine spray upon the face of the sleeping "other- 
wise man " had the effect of gradually awaken- 
ing him to the realization that the expected rain 
had come. Had those old Greeks been in the 
habit of putting a roof on their theatres, he might 
have slept on undisturbed. Even this oversight 
on the part of our Hellenic friends might have 
passed unnoticed, if their more recent fellow- 
townsmen, the Circassians, had not ploughed 
their furrows quite so deeply, thus allowing an 
ill-placed peg to slip out and let the tent-top sag. 
Be that as it may, the gently-descending drops 
were oozing through the canvas and moistening 
the pillow of the sleeping tourist. He arose, 
moved his cot out from under these descending 
blessings, turned his pillow over, and would 
have resumed his slumbers, had not the "aged 
friend" called "all hands up" to bring in boxes 
and other articles to the sheltering tent. Ropes 
were tightened and the erring peg replaced. 

191 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

The muleteers led the animals into the "lions' 
den," — conveniently at hand for the occasion. 
Sleep was no longer possible, so thoughts were 
turned to breakfast, ruins, or partridge hunting, 
according to the individual tastes of the thinkers. 

Indeed, the rain was very obliging, having 
waited for a day when the travellers expected to 
remain in camp. Nor did it interfere with pres- 
ent plans. Only a slight shower followed the 
heavy downpour of the early morning. 

After breakfast and prayers a thorough inspec- 
tion of all the ruins was undertaken. The day 
was delightfully cool for the excursion. Every 
part of the ancient city was visited. Eyes and 
minds were busily occupied. The tourists lin- 
gered long in the southern theatre, specially 
favored as a choice outlook. From its higher 
seats one may view the whole expanse of ruins 
in all their magnitude. 

And they are only ruins! What must have 
been the splendor of the city in its entirety 1 Can 
the imagination compass its magnificence ? The 
spectator at the theatre might weary of the heavy 
dialogue in progress on the stage beneath him, 
but could his eyes ever tire of the grand scene 
spread out before his view ? He might see the 
chariots coursing up and down the avenue of 

192 



A Grewsome Bedchamber 

columns, and richly-dressed Greeks and Romans 
gathered at the Forum, or wending their way to 
the grand temple on the hill. Wherever his 
gaze was directed, his eye rested on beautifully- 
wrought pillars and graceful shapes in buildings, 
public and private. The companies of helmeted 
soldiers, with armor glistening in the sun, 
marched here and there, and the guards upon 
the wall proclaimed the hourly word of peace 
and security. 

Now, however, the walls are overthrown, and 
the sightseers made their way along the street 
strewn with prostrate columns, and returned to 
camp, impressed with the power of man to rear 
such mighty buildings, but the more with the si- 
lent, patient, yet destructive power of Nature, 
which works by rain and sun, by springing grass 
and burrowing roots, until it accomplishes the 
downfall of the proudest structure. 

The afternoon sky was still lowering, and, in 
order that the tents and camp outfit might be dry 
for transportation on the morrow, a bold and 
novel plan was formed. It was resolved to 
spend the night in the great vaulted passage be- 
hind and beneath the stone benches. Thither 
the baggage was transferred through one of the 
"vomitoria" connecting with this encircling 

193 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

chamber, even though the exit was nearly choked 
with stones and rubbish. The tents, having been 
dried by the afternoon breeze and the fitful sun, 
were folded and stored away. 

The removal was effected at first by the wan- 
ing light of departing day, and then by flickering 
candle light. A weird scene it was, as the forms 
moved back and forth, entering the cave-like 
opening, casting grotesque shadows on the walls. 
More grewsome than all was the passage-chamber 
itself. Candles had been fixed at intervals in the 
sides, revealing in the rounded ceiling the huge 
blocks which upheld the seats above them in the 
open air. This passage was ten feet in width 
and fully as high, though the floor was covered 
deep with earth and blocks of stones. 

The beds were ranged along the walls, with 
weapons close at hand. For who could tell 
what strange visitor might appear? At the far 
end of this semicircular vault the horses were 
sheltered, — not in sight nor in sound, except for 
an occasional stamp of a hoof. All the openings 
to the rear had long ago been closed by rough 
piles of stones. Only one was left, and by that 
opening the muleteers slept, guarding against any 
intrusion from without. When all preparations 
had been completed, and darkness had settled 

194 



A Grewsome Bedchamber 



upon the outside world, then the three mission- 
aries, envoys of the Christian religion, lay down 
to sleep in a heathen theatre, dedicated, no doubt, 
to a heathen god! 

And as they slept, and dreamed, what form 
may not their night visions have assumed! If 
environment can affect the unfettered fancies of 
the dreamers, they must surely have traced their 
path back over the centuries to the early days of 
Christianity, when hundreds and thousands of 
noble martyrs adhered steadfastly to their faith, 
even in the hour of ignominy and cruel death. 

This theatre by its very shape reveals its pur- 
pose, which is not the recital of innocent plays, 
but the shedding of blood for the amusement of 
heathen spectators. Nor would the thousands 
of onlookers be content with the slaughter of 
beasts, however wild and noble; they must see 
human prowess and human suffering. 

Might not the dreamer, with the liberty of ir- 
rationality, — 

" While fancy, like the finger of a clock, 
Runs the great circuit, and is still at home," — 1 

see the place restored to its one-time form ? 

Again the day dawns, but a day in the third 
century of our era. The sun shines upon glis- 

1 Cowper. 
195 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

tening circles of seats, and busts of gods and 
goddesses adorn the shell-shaped niches. The 
sand in the arena glows under the warming 
rays, while the half-famished beasts fill the air 
with their roaring, which issues from the 
strongly-grated dens on the lowest level. Hark! 
a strange, sweet sound rises on the morning air; 
— it is the hymn of the Christians, as they wait 
in chains for the hour of their release. Upheld 
by divine strength, they look out upon the prep- 
arations, as fresh sand is sprinkled on the arena, 
and the barrier walls are examined, lest some in- 
furiated beast leap to the benches. 

Then the rear gates are swung open and the 
crowds pour in. Those clad in the royal purple, 
their courtiers with them, choose the best seats, 
while the rest of the available space is filled with 
an eager, expectant throng. The nobility are 
greeted with cheers, then all eyes turn to the 
grated bars. 

These are opened, and one, two, three raven- 
ous beasts spring out. They have not long to 
wait. An opposite door swings backward, and 
perchance a Christian family move slowly for- 
ward to a horrible death, while pampered nobles 
and court-bred ladies eagerly bend far over to 
watch the certain result. They no longer think 

196 



A Grewsome Bedchamber 

of thumbs turned down, which might have res- 
cued a gladiator or a wrestler. 

But these are only Christians! With uplifted 
eyes and unswerving faith they die the martyr's 
death. Can such things have been? Is it not 
all a monstrous dream ? Were the believers ever 
put to such a test ? In this day of easy Christi- 
anity who would stand in the face of such an 
ordeal! 

The dreamer seems to be drawn irresistibly 
into the midst of the onlookers. Dazed and 
trembling he beholds the Christians, singly and 
in groups, brought before the altars in the pres- 
ence of the throng, and given a little incense to 
strew, if they will, upon the altar fire. A very 
easy way to deny their Lord, yet all the more 
subtle the temptation. One by one they refuse 
with the Christian fortitude born of faith. " To 
the beasts! " is the cry, and their crown is won. 

Now the dreamer is brought closer and closer 
to the altar. The officiating priest places the 
incense in his hand, and urges him to a decision. 
All about him are the eager, heathen faces, row 
upon row, with eyes bent upon him, and ears 
open to hear his reply, or witness the slight 
gesture of submission. He dare not look behind 
him, — the moans of the tortured are enough. 

197 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



It is a moment of awful suspense. All his 
professions of faith, his calling itself, urge him to 
the word of right decision. The sweetness of 
life, the love of his dear ones, the sophistry of 
plausible excuses tempt him to move his arm 
toward the altar. The crowds grow impatient; 
the cry goes up; his fate is about to be sealed; 
what shall he do ? Suddenly some hunger-mad- 
dened beast raises its voice; the dreamer starts 
and vainly struggles with his captors, and— 
awakes to realize that a wild-cat has invaded 
the improvised bedchamber, and the "literary 
friend" has raised the alarm. The provisions 
were saved, and a tragedy averted. 



198 



XVIII 



A QUEST FOR WATER 

The stars were shining brightly in the heavens, 
when, at four o'clock in the morning, the travel- 
lers emerged from their theatrical chamber, none 
the worse for their experience, and ready to 
start on a new path toward the west. No rain 
had fallen during the night, and all signs pointed 
to a cool, breezy day. Little did they realize 
that this was to be the longest day's work of the 
trip. 

The chilly darkness, scarce dispelled by a 
belated and discouraged moon, gave zest to 
active preparation for the removal. The loads 
were made up; the inner man was refreshed 
(principally with bread and sweet-food); lunch 
(ditto) was packed; and, as the genial light of 
dawning day grew brighter and clearer, the 
caravan started, rejoicing that no government 
officials had stepped in to interfere with the 
solid delight of the visit to Jerash. Indeed, the 
utmost precautions had been observed. The 
early morning start had been made without 

199 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

noise or confusion. The muleteers knew abso- 
lutely nothing of their destination. Hence no 
one could extract from them any reliable infor- 
mation. (This had been a rule of procedure 
thus far. The muleteers were under "sealed 
orders.") 

The ruins of Jerash were left behind, as the 
crest of a hill was turned, two or three villages 
were passed on the road, which led up and down 
over gentle hills and broad valleys, until Reimun 
was reached. This may possibly be the Ramoth 
Gilead of the Bible. Surely the site was most 
suitable, but, alas, the village has sunk to the 
lowest grade of poverty and squalor. Many 
huts were seen, built in wigwam style,— stalks 
of grain or reed coated over with mud. 

If this were indeed the true site of Ramoth 
Gilead, then the tourists were on historic ground. 
Moses appointed this city, with five others, to be 
a city of refuge. 1 It became also an important 
place and seat of government. Solomon made 
it one of his commissariat stations, 1 whence 
might be supplied the daily necessities for his 
table in Jerusalem. The requirements were 
prodigious. 3 The list would seem to indicate 
that quantity, not variety, was the chief stipu- 

* Deut. iv. 43. a 1 Kings iv. 13. a 1 Kings iv. 22-28. 

i 200 



A Quest for Water 

lation. It is even so at the present time. An 
oriental bill of fare undergoes slight changes, 
except in amount 

But the chief claim of this city to distinction is 
that Ahab, the infamous king and husband of the 
more infamous Jezebel, met his death here at the 
hands of " a certain man, who drew a bow at a 
venture." How black is the page of the sacred 
record, which contains the names of Ahab and 
Jezebel! The only redeeming feature is the 
necessary intermingling of the story of Elijah. 

After Ahab had gained a decisive victory at 
Aphek in Jaulan over his long-time enemy, 
Benhadad, the Syrian, he displeased the Lord by 
his lenient and foolish treatment of his royal 
prisoner, and received a well-deserved rebuke. 1 
He returned to Samaria, angry at the Lord's 
reproof, and peevish as a little child. He wanted 
Naboth's vineyard, and his childish wish was 
gratified. But appended to it was a terrible 
curse from the lips of Elijah. That sturdy 
prophet appeared finally to the conscience- 
smitten Ahab, and pronounced a bloody ending 
to the wretched king's career. "In the place 
where dogs licked the blood of Naboth shall 
dogs lick thy blood, even thine." 2 

1 i Kings xx. 28-42. 2 1 Kings xxi. 19, 

201 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Two years passed by after this event, but the 
fulfillment was delayed. Possibly the dire 
prophecy was forgotten by Ahab. God never 
forgets. In the third year came Jehoshaphat, 
King of Judah, to pay a visit to his royal neigh- 
bor. 1 He was entertained sumptuously (accord- 
ing to prevailing Eastern ideas). Sheep and oxen 
were slaughtered in abundance, and his attend- 
ants allowed to gorge themselves. When all 
were feeling happy, Ahab, the crafty ruler, pro- 
posed a joint expedition against the Syrian mon- 
arch, to compel him to keep his promises, 2 and 
more especially to surrender Ramoth Gilead, the 
key to the eastern situation. 

Jehoshaphat, really a good and a pious man, 
felt averse to joining with his infamous neighbor. 
He would enquire of the Lord through the 
prophets. Ahab readily assented, for he had his 
prophets well trained. One of them even placed 
horns of iron upon his head, thus representing 
how Ahab would push the Syrians out of the 
country. One poor fellow, who insisted on tell- 
ing the truth, was put into prison and fed on the 
" bread and water of affliction." His metaphor 
of " all Israel scattered upon the hills, as sheep 
that have not a shepherd," had reached its mark, 

1 I Kings xxii. 2. 3 1 Kings xx. 34. 

202 



A Quest for Water 



however, and Ahab went disguised into the bat- 
tle at Ramoth Gilead. 

Now this ruse did not work with entire satis- 
faction to the other king; for Jehoshaphat found 
himself the recipient of great attention, — he was 
the centre of attraction. The Syrians had been 
ordered to direct their force against the king, and 
they did so, without discriminating between 
Ahab and Jehoshaphat. Poor, innocent Jehosha- 
phat was so hard-pressed that he could escape 
only by crying out that they had the wrong man. 

Ahab did not profit by his scheme. God's 
sovereignty was upheld by man's free agency. 
One of the Syrian archers placed an arrow on his 
bow, and without taking aim, " in his simplicity," 
as the margin reads, let it fly. It reached a vital 
point beneath the armor of Ahab, and he fell 
mortally wounded. His life-blood ebbed away 
till the eventide, when he sank in the midst of his 
chariot. Then the word was passed from mouth 
to mouth, " Every man to his city, and every man 
to his own country." A king had fallen. 

The chariot was driven just as it was to the 
royal city of Samaria, and there was washed in 
the pool. "And the dogs licked up his blood 
. . . according unto the word of the Lord 
which he spake." Thus did the dogs, the home- 

203 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

less, ownerless, outcast scavengers of Syria, ful- 
fill the prophecy of Elijah. 

Again, after the lapse of a dozen years, Ramoth 
Gilead figured once more in the history of Israel, 
this time in connection with Jehoram, the son of 
Ahab. 1 He had gone out to the east-Jordan coun- 
try with Ahaziah, his ally, and had been severely 
wounded in Ramoth Gilead in a battle with the 
irrepressible Syrians. Upon his removal to Jez- 
reel for healing, Jehu, one of his captains, raised 
a revolt, and was proclaimed king by the soldiers. 
Then he mounted his chariot and drove headlong 
from Ramoth Gilead to Jezreel, and amid the 
slaughter of all Ahab's house, together with the 
frightful, but well-deserved death of Jezebel, 
Jehu assumed the reins of government. Thus 
was Ramoth Gilead again connected with the 
fulfillment of prophecy in the destruction of the 
house of Ahab, root and branch. 

Reimun is in the midst of a hilly, wooded dis- 
trict. The vision of the prophet was in place, 
" I saw all Israel scattered upon the hills, as sheep 
that have not a shepherd." 3 The travellers, hav- 
ing no guide, were often at a loss to know the 
right road, nor were there many wayfarers. 
The path led up and over a high ridge covered 

1 2 Kings viii. 28, etc. 8 I Kings xxii. 17. 

204 



A Quest for Water 

with forests, then on and up again, until the 
tourists emerged upon a high point to the south 
of their previous camp at 'Ajlun, with the castle 
Rubud in full view across the mighty gorge. 
The* noonday rest and lunch were enjoyed under 
the olives near 'Anjara, with Rubud ever in sight. 

Then westward they went, above the great 
valley, to Kefrenjy, where a council was held as 
to routes. The deep valley led down in a south- 
westerly course to the plain of the Jordan, invit- 
ing to the travellers, because (as described by a 
villager), it was perfectly easy,— a carriage road 
in directness and smoothness. "Need a guide? 
No! Couldn't possibly lose the way." The 
many good points of this route overcame the 
counter-attractions of a night at Helaweh, the 
possible site of Jabesh Gilead. The river route 
offered abundance of water, while at Helaweh 
there were only cisterns, and those liable to be 
nearly dry. 

So the line of march was once more resumed, 
and it was the expectation that the Jordan plain 
would soon be reached. All went well for a 
while, until the ever-winding stream in the gorge 
was crossed and the other bank ascended. That 
was the false move. The river should not have 
been crossed. They seemed, however, to be fol- 

205 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

lowing the course, though its resemblance to the 
above-mentioned carriage road was exceedingly 
faint. Fortunately, the animals were all watered 
at the stream and were ready to push on. 

The path led upward and away from the water, 
past large boulders and along a level plateau. It 
seemed to be a well-trodden path. But all at 
once it disappeared, — swallowed up in a field of 
ploughed ground, — nor could the most minute 
and extended search reveal its continuation. 

There the travellers were, high and dry, up 
above the desired Jordan plain, and the sun sink- 
ing ever lower in the west. The only compen- 
sation for this untimely altitude was the marvel- 
lous view. It surpassed even that from Rubud 
castle. Now this point is not marked in Baedeker 
with a triple star, simply because the compiler of 
that valuable guide-book undoubtedly never had 
occasion to view the world from this "no thor- 
oughfare." 

The wanderers realized that something must 
be done. It would be ignominious to retrace 
their steps; it seemed impossible to go forward. 
But they must leave the plateau and strive to 
reach a lower level. With some difficulty the 
horses were led down a steep, rocky hillside to a 
second and lower plateau. Here, too, no roads 

206 



A Ouest for Water 



were found, and affairs looked far from prepos- 
sessing. The tourists were ready to pitch camp 
then and there. The muleteers were taken into 
council. "Put up the tents and make the best 
of it in this dry place. Count it a night in your 
experience," was the suggestion offered. What, 
pass the night without water! Impossible! What 
would their mules do, and what would they do ? 
The idea could not be entertained. 

One of them remembered to have noticed a 
slight path leading down a gully toward the left. 
It was only a goat path, or used by wood-chop- 
pers, but it was a path, and take it they would ! 
The risk of defeat was great. A massive boul- 
der, or a steep declivity, or any one of number- 
less hindrances might stop them in their way. 
The sun was nearing the horizon, and the plain 
was far away. 

They first took a zigzag path down a rough, 
steep hillside, where a false step by horse or 
mule would send him to sure death. It is su- 
perfluous to state that the travellers walked, 
leading their horses. They reached the narrow 
gully, where a winter torrent had scoured the 
bed-rocks in the channel, till they almost shone. 
Here was indeed a geometrical progression of 
difficulties. The first descent from the highest 

207 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

plateau had seemed hard; the next was danger- 
ous; the one before them seemed impassable. 

But the muleteers were spurred on by the in- 
born Syrian craving for water. Deprive him of 
all else, but allow him water at all times of day 
and night! David took from Saul a precious 
article, when he carried off by night the jug of 
water placed for easy convenience at the king's 
bolster, out in the wilderness of Judaea. 1 Much 
of the Bible imagery, narrative and illustration 
can be understood only with a full realization of 
the intense desire for water among the people of 
the Orient. A westerner can curb his thirst, and 
be influenced by decisive circumstances. The 
oriental drinks at every fountain and in every 
house, — and his thirst continues. 

The thought of a night without water had 
sent the muleteers down over a declivity danger- 
ous in the extreme. They pushed ahead over 
pebbles and rocks and boulders, sliding on 
treacherous slabs worn smooth by the winter 
waters. The travellers cautiously followed their 
thirsty guides, fearful of consequences to limbs 
of struggling horses. As they passed over the 
slippery rocks, the query of Amos received re- 
newed verification, "Shall horses run upon the 

i I Sam. xxvi. 12. 
208 



A Ouest for Water 

rock ? " 1 And what if this progress should posi- 
tively be stopped ? Could they ever retrace their 
steps ? This mad plunge continued till the sun's 
red orb was hid behind the western ranges, when 
they emerged finally and with a shout of triumph 
onto the plain of the Jordan. 

That had been a novel experience in rough 
roads, far better in the retrospect than the actu- 
ality. It was unique! 

But the day's labor was not yet ended. No 
water was in sight. The Jordan was far away 
across the wide plain, and water to the north 
was a discouraging uncertainty. Yet the mule- 
teers were determined to keep moving, till they 
landed in the lake itself, provided no water were 
found before that. Wearily the tired pack-ani- 
mals plodded along. The colors faded out on 
the bare mountain-sides. Long after dark some 
shepherds, camping near the roadside, gave the 
information that a cistern was ahead "one 
cigarette." That cigarette could never have been 
lighted, for the cistern never appeared. 

Then the road was lost in the thick darkness, 
and with difficulty found by the closest scrutiny. 
A viper hissed in the roadside, unseen but not 
unheard. The way stretched out interminably 

1 Amos vi. 12. 
209 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

over slightly rolling ground. Patience was tried 
again and again, as the dried-up water-courses 
were reached and passed. Job had evidently 
been tempted thus, for he wrote "My brethren 
have dealt deceitfully as a brook, and as the 
stream of brooks they pass away; which are 
blackish by reason of the ice, and wherein the 
*snow is hid: what time they wax warm, they 
vanish: when it is hot, they are consumed out of 
their place. The paths of their way are turned 
aside; they go to nothing, and perish." 1 Each 
depression seemed to promise relief. None was 
to be found. Courage and hope were spent. 

At last the glad sound of running water was 
heard, faint at first, then growing louder. It was 
a little stream below the path, flowing in a nar- 
row channel through a field of stones. Darkness 
reigned, an absolute monarch; but the loads 
were put down without ceremony in the stony 
plot, and enough of the stones removed to fur- 
nish a place for the tired beasts. They had had 
a memorable day, — nearly fourteen hours of 
solid work! 

No attempt was made to unpack or set up 
tents, — no one had the energy to try it. A cold 
meal was "picked up," (the third cold one for 

1 Job vi. 15-18. 

210 



A Quest for Water 



the day). Beds were placed amongst the stones in 
the open field, and the reward of all the toil came 
in refreshing sleep. Fatigue vanished in the night, 
just as the thirst had departed, when the little 
rivulet of flowing water offered of its precious 
self to meet the needs of the thirsty wayfarers. 

Such an experience adds vividness to all the 
sacred allusions to water and its value. 

"And Abraham reproved Abimelech because 
of a well of water, which Abimelech's servants 
had violently taken away." 1 

"And there was no water for the people to 
drink. Wherefore the people did chide with 
Moses." 2 

"Thou shalt sell me meat for money, that I 

may eat; and give me water for money, that I 

may drink." 8 
"He shall bless thy bread, and thy water." 4 
"Thou hast not given water to the weary to 

drink, and thou hast withholden bread from the 

hungry." 5 

" He leadeth me beside the still waters." 6 
"Ho, every one that thirsteth, come ye to the 
waters." 7 

i Gen. xxi. 25 ; xxvi. 19-21. *Ex. xv. 24; xvii. 1, 2. 
3 Deut. ii. 28. 4 Ex. xxiii. 25. »Job xxii. 7. 

6 Ps. xxiii. 2. 7 Isa. lv. I. 

211 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

" If any man thirst, let him come unto Me, and 
drink." 1 

"And He showed me a pure river of water of 
life, clear as crystal, proceeding out of the throne 
of God and of the Lamb." 2 

1 John iv. 14, 15 ; vii. 37. *Rev. xxii. 1. 



212 



XIX 



THE FORD OF THE JORDAN 

As the tourists awoke from refreshing sleep in 
their stony camping-place, they were glad to see 
in the morning light what darkness had wrapped 
in impenetrable gloom. They had descended 
from the heights of 'Ajlun to the depressed Ghor 
of the Jordan. On the one side rose the moun- 
tains, and far across the wide plain the cleft of 
the sacred river could be followed. 

This Ghor, the great "plain of the Jordan," is 
one of the characteristic features of Biblical to- 
pography. It varies in width. In some places 
it embraces a plain nearly a dozen miles across. 
This is what Lot saw when he "lifted up his 
eyes, and beheld all the plain of Jordan, that 
it was well watered everywhere, even as the 
garden of the Lord." This strip of country is 
intensely hot and equally fertile. It is inhabited 
almost exclusively by Bedawin, whose lazy 
habits and meagre wants enable them to endure 
the burning heat with a minimum of physical 

313 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

inconvenience. They pitch their rude camps 
along the river-bottoms and exist. Not even the 
otherwhere potent offer of money could induce 
the lazy Bedawin to act as guides. Many a time 
the travellers, in their way toward the river 
across the perplexing rolling land and streams 
and marshy plots in the Ghor, made trial of the 
lounging Arabs. It was of no avail. They 
would not budge an inch. There they lay along 
the ground, sunning themselves, like lizards 
upon a rock, and counted it an effort to raise 
their hands to point toward the road. They 
were contented. There was tobacco in their 
long-stemmed pipes and probably enough meal 
in the tent to last a few days, and what more did 
they crave? One old Bedawy along the way 
was seen to produce a dirty bag from within the 
bosom of his tattered garment, extract a hand- 
ful of millet (or some other cheap grain), mix 
this with some dirty water, shape the dough into 
a rough cake, lay it on a smooth stone, bake it 
( ? ) under the hot sun, and then eat it with evi- 
dent relish. That constituted his noon meal. 
And doubtless all the others were similar. 

This great stretch of low land may once have 
been the basin of a great lake. But the waters 
have subsided and left only a stream and smaller 

214 



The Ford of the Jordan 



lakes, remarkable for their history as well as for 
their physical peculiarities. 

It is a curious fact that not until this century 
did the world know the truth about the marvel- 
lous depression of this valley. In 1837 an Amer- 
ican lieutenant, Lynch, explored the Jordan and 
the Dead Sea, and found that they lay below the 
level of the Mediterranean! What must have 
been his feelings, as he travelled the length of 
the sacred water-course, to discover his instru- 
ments gradually recording the fact that he was 
sinking below the ocean! At the waters of 
Merom he was but six feet and a half above the 
sea level. When he reached Galilee, he had de- 
scended to a point six hundred and eighty-two 
feet below the Mediterranean, and finally, as he 
emerged upon the great expanse of salt water at 
the Dead Sea, he had reached the lowest known 
spot on the face of the earth, twelve hundred 
and ninety-three feet below sea level! 

The Jordan is a river which has made the most 

of its opportunities. In a straight distance of 

one hundred and thirty-six miles it has managed 

to lengthen itself by twistings and turnings to 

almost twice the above distance. In one place it 

runs due north! And more than that, in the 

same distance it descends three thousand feet! 
215 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Contrary to the popular idea, the Jordan is a nar- 
row river. Its current is very swift, and it is 
impassable except at certain points, where it 
broadens into a somewhat shallow stream. It is 
not surprising that the Jordan is a muddy river. 
For its banks are of clay, and wage a losing war- 
fare against the allied forces of swift current and 
sharp loops. Bridges are few and ancient, most 
of them were ruined remains. One, the Jisr el 
Mijamia, still does a good business in the winter 
months, when the fords are dangerous or impass- 
able. Much of the grain from Hauran passes on 
camels over this ancient bridge. The Jordan has 
three banks, 1 one above another. The low- 
est one, — the true channel of the river,— is nar- 
row and sunk far below the surrounding level. 
This is its course during the fall and winter. 
One standing at the water's edge finds his view 
almost completely intercepted. The next bank 
consists of soft, sedimentary deposit, which con- 
fines the river in its fuller course. When the 
hot sun of late spring and summer melts the 
snows of Hermon, then the river swells to its 
greatest proportions and often rises to the level 
of the third bank, which is lined with trees, 
bushes and undergrowth. The Jordan at this 

1 Joshua iii. 15. 
216 



The Ford of the Jordan 



level is a formidable stream. It is noted of 
David's most valiant warriors, as a mark of 
special strength and courage, that they "went 
over the Jordan in the first month, when it had 
overflown all his banks," 1 — that is, they swam 
the swollen stream. 

The Jordan is the river of fancy and imagina- 
tion. Poets have sung of it, devotional writers 
have used it as a figure of death from time im- 
memorial. Every one, young and old, has 
painted some mental picture of this sacred 
stream. The hymn-writers have woven the 
thought of the swift-flowing stream into many 
a hymn of heaven and release from the burdens 
of this life. Yet not all allusions to the Jordan 
are adapted to the true facts. One beautiful 
poem begins with this stanza: 

" Like an arrow from the quiver, 
To the sad and lone Dead Sea 
Thou art rushing, rapid river, 
Swift, and strong, and silently." 

At the risk of seeming to question the poetic 
license it is permissible to state the fact that no 
arrow could possibly pursue the crooked course 
adopted by the Jordan. 
This well-known river forms a natural and 

1 i Chron. xii. 13. 
217 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



well-defined boundary, and in all times has 
sharply divided between east and west. The Is- 
raelites were accustomed to the phrases ''over 
Jordan," "on the other side of Jordan," "beyond 
Jordan," and similar expressions. Even the 
peoples that inhabited the. different sections were 
dissimilar. The eastern nations were rugged and 
uncouth, and lived by war and plunder. Those 
to the west were amenable to law and progress. 

The historical references to the sacred river 
form an interesting part of Holy Writ. The Jor- 
dan is mentioned nearly two hundred times! It 
is connected with incidents varying widely in 
character. The "great plain of Jordan " 1 tempted 
Lot to his final downfall. This is the first men- 
tion of the Jordan river. In opposite mood the 
Patriarch Jacob, when he set out from home to 
seek his fortune, crossed the river eastward. 2 
Later on his descendants, the Israelites, under 
Joshua's leadership miraculously passed over on 
dry land, and took twelve stones from the bed 
of the stream to rear as a memorial pillar. 3 It 
was the grief of Moses' life that he was not per- 
mitted to cross the stream. 4 

During the period of the Judges many stirring 

1 Gen. xiii. 10. 2 Gen. xxxii. io. 

3 Josh. iv. 20. * Deut. iii. 25. 

218 



The Ford of the Jordan 



events transpired at the Jordan. Ehud, the left- 
handed deliverer of Israel, gathered his men at 
the fords of Jordan and slew ten thousand 
Moabites. 1 

The episode of Gideon and his doings 2 is pecul- 
iarly interesting, because it illustrates the crude 
ideas of justice and the qualities of leadership 
displayed in those days. The Midianites had 
crossed the Jordan in great numbers and gathered 
on the plain of Jezreel. Where was the man to 
rise up as champion of Israel ? Gideon was the 
hero ordained of God. He belonged to a poor 
family of Manasseh. After receiving convincing 
signs that he should succeed, he assembled his 
followers from all the neighboring tribes (except 
Ephraim). But the Lord wished to reveal His 
power unto Gideon and to Israel, and therefore 
told him to send back all the cowards. These 
amounted to twenty-two thousand! Yet there 
were ten thousand left, — far too many for the 
purposes of God. 

Then a strange choice was made. They were 
all hurried pellmell down to the water, so that they 
arrived very thirsty. All but three hundred of the 
men hastened to the river's edge, knelt down, put 
their faces to the water, and drank without stint. 

1 Judges ii. 28, 29. 2 Judges vi. 7, 8. 

219 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

These were rejected, because they evinced lack 
of prudence and self-control. Caution, too, was 
wanting. The enemy might have gained an ad- 
vantage while they were thus kneeling and in- 
attentive to their surroundings. Such men were 
not the best for the delicate expedition proposed 
by the Lord. 

The other three hundred did not kneel down, 
but merely bending the knee, and with one eye 
upon their duty, quenched their thirst by dipping 
one hand in the stream and dexterously throwing 
handful after handful of the refreshing water into 
their mouths, just as a dog flings the water into 
his mouth by a quick movement of his tongue. 1 
These three hundred were prepared to spring 
instantly to attack or defence without the loss of 
a moment. And they stood in need of all their 
prudence and self-restraint. For the enemy num- 
bered one hundred and thirty-five thousand men. 8 

That night they gained an overwhelming victory 
by the use of pottery jugs, torches and trumpets. 
The remnant of the Midianites fled precipitately 
toward the ford of the Jordan. Gideon sent word 
to Ephraim to cut off their escape at the fords. 
As a result many of them were slain, and among 
them two princes. 

1 Judges yii. 5. * Judges viii. 10. 

220 



The Ford of the Jordan 

Gideon and his men, "faint, yet pursuing," 
hastened after the fugitives, even though the 
provisions were exhausted, and the citizens of 
Succoth and Penuel refused to feed his followers. 
This was a marked breech of hospitality, which 
did not pass unnoticed. On his triumphal return, 
he took occasion to look in upon these two places 
as he passed. Succoth's officials and city council 
he caught, and with a collection of thorns and 
briers, as the record says, he " taught the men of 
Succoth " ! Penuel he laid waste and killed its 
citizens. 

Jephthah, the Gileadite judge, is also worthy of 
mention in connection with the fords of the Jor- 
dan. 1 When the Ephraimites from the west of the 
river thought to bully him, because he had fought 
a battle without their aid, he sent some of his men 
to hold the fords of the Jordan, and with the rest 
routed the men of Ephraim, so that they fled 
homeward. But at the great river they fell into 
difficulties of a linguistic nature. Being asked to 
say something about the stream, they would in- 
variably say "Sibboleth," whereas an east- 
Jordaner would call it "Shibboleth." This 
lingual impediment cost the lives of forty-two 
thousand Ephraimites. Nor is it an unlikely story. 

1 Judges xii. i-6. 
221 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

Dialectical differences in Syria and Palestine are 
more marked than those between North and 
South, East and West in America. The teacher 
in Arabic, whose school is far distant from 
his native place, frequently finds himself in the 
dilemma of the lisping pedagogue who tried to 
teach his pupils the sound of " s." " The nektht 
letter ith 'eth.' But don't thay eth ath I thay 
eth ; thay eth." 

The Jordan river, although no city has ever 
stood upon its banks, nevertheless could boast 
two useful institutions in its immediate vicinity. 
One was a brass foundry of immense proportions, 
near to Succoth, where Hiram, king of Tyre, had 
all the brassware for the temple cast in the clayey 
ground found thereabout. So much brass was 
used in making the various utensils, that no one 
ever ascertained the weight of it. 1 

The second institution was a theological semi- 
nary conducted by Elisha. As far as is known, no 
question has ever been raised as to the orthodoxy 
of this school. Indeed, the pupils exhibited some 
excellent traits of character. One of them lost an 
axe head in the Jordan, and was specially dis- 
turbed because it was borrowed! 2 

Naaman, the Syrian leper-prince, dipped seven 

1 Kings vii. 46, 47. 2 Kings vii. 1-7. 

222 



The Ford of the Jordan 



times in Jordan, perhaps at the very ford where 
three travellers recently dipped also, but not for 
the same reason. 1 

David, the fugitive king, fled over Jordan by 
night, but on his return, triumphant, yet mourn- 
ful, he found a ferryboat set aside for his use, 
and was accompanied by that lovable old char- 
acter, Barzillai, eighty years of age. 2 

One more scene of the Old Testament must 
be mentioned, — the majestic translation of the 
Prophet of Fire, Elijah. As in service sudden in 
appearance, fierce in denunciation, and dramatic 
in action; so in his departure the fire of heaven 
shaped itself to his need. Strange it is that he 
delayed his ascension, — not in Gilgal, not in 
Bethel, not in Jericho, — until he had crossed the 
Jordan with Elisha, and there, in the borders of 
his own Gilead, the mighty prophet left this 
earth, swept by a whirlwind to heaven in a 
chariot of flaming fire. 3 

But the cup of Jordan's honor was not yet full. 
There remained one crowning event. 4 Hundreds 
of years after that fiery ascension a quiet scene 
occurred at one of the higher fords, transcending 
that manifestation of mighty power, even as the 

1 2 Kings v. 14. 2 2 Sam. xix. 18, 31. 

3 2 Kings ii. i-ii. « Matt. iii. 13 etc. . 

223 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

"still small voice" surpassed in real grandeur 
the wind, the earthquake, and the fire. It was 
a scene of utmost simplicity. A rough-clad 
preacher stood beside the flowing waters, pro- 
claiming salvation through repentance. People 
of all stations in life thronged to the ford, im- 
pelled thither by varying motives. In the midst 
of his exhortations the eloquent preacher paused. 
One had come, whose very look and sinless 
beauty, and majestic solemnity of mien com- 
pelled the attention of the prophet, who was 
overawed by the Divine Presence. How simple 
and heartfelt the confession of human depend- 
ence, "I have need to be baptized of Thee, and 
comest Thou to me ? " With the humble reply, 
"Suffer it to be so now," the Son of God 
descended into the waters of Jordan, the dove of 
the Divine Spirit rested upon Him, and from out 
the parted heavens came the Father's voice, 
"This is My beloved Son, in whom I am well 
pleased." 

Surely at that sacred river the three travellers 
might well pause in contemplation of all the 
scenes of sacred history enacted at its banks. 
They, too, came to the ford of the Jordan, 
desiring to cross. As it swept past them in 
deep, dark currents, there seemed to be no way 
224 



The Ford of the Jordan 

of passage. But a Bedawy near at hand strode 
across in safety, and riders and loads followed 
him, until all were across the stream. The camp 
pushed on to its destination, while the travellers 
lingered for a refreshing dip in the swift, cold 
waters, and a quiet rest beneath the overhanging 
shade. Oh, poet's dream, how many would 
delight to share that rest, in the sound of the 
rushing waters, in sight of the rolling stream! 

" Through the dark green foliage stealing, 
Like a silver ray of light, 
Who can tell the pilgrim's feeling 
When thy waters meet his sight ? 

11 All the deeds of sacred story, 
All its marvels great and true, 
All that gives the Jordan glory, 
Rush upon his raptured view ! 

* * * * * * 

u Emblem bright of Death's dark River, 
Long I linger on thy shore ; 
All its waves can harm me never, 

Now the Ark has gone before."— Anderson. 



225 



XX 



BETHSHAN, AND THE IGNOMINY OF SAUL 

The travellers, leaving the favored lunching- 
place at the river ford, mounted the steep western 
banks to the level of the great plain, which 
stretches off toward Bethshan. Almost opposite 
to this ford, somewhat back from the river, lies 
the site of the little village, where Elisha was 
born, — Abel-meholah. His father was evidently 
a well-to-do farmer, for he was able to employ 
several laborers for the work of ploughing. 
Elijah found the young farmer in a field at work 
with eleven others, each with his oxen and 
plough. 1 

As the tourists made their way across the 
wide-spreading plain, they looked toward the 
ancient site and in imagination could see a dozen 
yoke of oxen trailing lazily over the ground, 
spurred on by frequent pokes from the " pricks" 
in the hands of nineteenth century Elishas. 

This plain was once luxuriantly fertile. It was 
watered by many little rivulets, which afforded 

1 I Kings xix. 19-21. 
226 



Bethshan and the Ignominy of Saul 

ample moisture for abundant and easy crops. 
Many palms reared their stately heads. Not 
much of the ancient beauty remains, though the 
plain is as fertile as ever it was. 

Beisan itself, the objective point of the day's 
travel, is a Syrian paradise for water. On every 
side are living streams, copious fountains and 
running brooks. The place is a large and im- 
portant point on the great route from the south- 
ern seaports toward Damascus. The horses of 
the strangers clattered over well-paved streets, 
through markets lined with substantially-built 
stores and grain magazines. There, too, was 
found the ubiquitous Judeideh merchant,— this 
time a Protestant church member and a good 
representative of his sect. He was delighted to 
see his friends, and on Sunday evening brought 
some of his companions to the tents for an in- 
formal service of song and prayer. Having 
spent long months away from church life, his 
soul craved the fellowship, which the mission- 
aries were delighted to give. 

The present town is but a faded remnant of the 
old-time city. Then it filled all the surrounding 
plain, and, leaping a deep valley, planted itself 
upon a remarkable hillock, the citadel of the me- 
tropolis. When the travellers had passed through 

227 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

the town, they emerged upon the level threshing 
floors at the edge of a bluff looking across a deep 
water-course to the high hillock above mentioned. 

The muleteers had tried to pitch the tents on 
this level spot, though the rushing wind increased 
the difficulties of the operation, and filled the 
tents with the fine straw from the threshing 
floors, — the " chaff," which used to be burned in 
the time of John the Baptist. 1 The tourists at 
once realized the unwisdom of this choice of 
site, — exposed to heat, wind, dust, chaff, boys, 
donkeys and thieves. A prompt reconnoitre re- 
vealed a charming place at the foot of the bluff, 
at the rear of a large Grecian theatre, in a fig or- 
chard whose trees were of immense size and af- 
forded ample shade. This orchard, by the way, 
belongs to the Sultan, as does any amount of the 
best land in the empire. On this occasion his 
majesty's fig-trees were highly appreciated by 
those, who may not have considered his posses- 
sion of them as absolutely lawful. 

This spot settled upon, the camp was quickly 
shifted down the steep hill and as quickly put 
into shape by many willing hands. For this was 
to be a two-night stop, that the patient animals 
might gain a well-earned rest, Water was close 

1 Matt. iii. I2 4 ' 
228 



Bethshan and the Ignominy of Saul 

at hand, though somewhat brackish and not en- 
tirely pure. A thirsty traveller, however, does 
not always take the sanitary precautions which 
civilization renders easy. 

A variation in the usual program was occa- 
sioned by the collapse of the cook. His usual 
high spirits had suffered a decline a day or two 
before, and he could now barely drag himself to a 
spot near the tents, there to groan as if his end 
were near. But there was no danger. His ill- 
ness was more dramatic than serious, though dis- 
agreeable to him and inconvenient to others. 
The tourists set to work and soon had a choice 
meal of omelette and other delicacies. This re- 
past having been finished, there was nothing to 
do but retire. So at half past seven all sought 
welcome rest, trusting for protection from thieves 
to the intangible influence of the Sultan, repre- 
sented in his fig-trees. (Possibly a judicious dis- 
play of revolvers and other weapons during the 
afternoon removal may have been quite as im- 
pressive as fear of imperial vengeance.) 

Next morning the travellers arose betimes, pre- 
pared to enjoy a quiet Sabbath of rest and study 
in the Bible. All about them were spread the 
evidences of ancient greatness, and every point 

in the landscape was historic. 

229 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



Bethshan, long before the Israelites invaded the 
land of Canaan, had been a stronghold in war 
and a centre for commerce. The Canaanites held 
this city against all the endeavors of Israel to 
wrest it from their grasp. 1 It was a renowned 
centre of Dagon worship, and the devotees came 
from afar to propitiate the powerful god. Dur- 
ing the glorious reign of Solomon this place with 
all the surrounding territory seems to have been 
added to his dominion and made an important 
commissariat station for the supply of his royal 
needs. 3 

The later Grecian name of Scythopolis indicates 
the influx of a considerable foreign element, — 
perhaps Scythian settlers. The great theatre is 
also an evidence of Greek or other European oc- 
cupation. This (temporary) Greek city was also 
adorned by many other buildings, — a hippo- 
drome, colonnaded street, and other evidences of 
former splendor. Scythopolis was also the chief 
city of the Decapolis. In the Christian period it 
was important as the centre of an episcopal dio- 
cese, and during the Crusades was destroyed by 
fire at the hands of Saladin. 

The most interesting and thrilling narrative, 
however, connected with Bethshan is the recital 

» Judges i. 27. 2 1 Kings iv. 12. 

230 



Bethshan and the Ignominy of Saul 

of Saul's tragic death and ignominious exposure 
on the walls of the Philistine city. 1 How vivid 
did the record seem, as the tourists read of the 
episode on the very ground! The muleteers had 
been gathered under one of the great fig-trees, 
and one of the missionaries, speaking in the 
Arabic tongue, which is particularly adapted to 
such a narrative, read to them from the books of 
Samuel of that disastrous day in the history of 
Israel's first king. 

And even more thrilling did the story become, 
as the travellers stood upon the heights of the 
truncated cone, which represented the citadel of 
Bethshan. That great, elevated plateau seemed 
almost artificial, so perfect was it as an impreg- 
nable stronghold. The line of the massive wall 
could be traced all about it, and the site of the 
ancient gateway was still in evidence. 

A broad sweep of country fell beneath the 
glance from that favored view-point. All the 
places connected with Saul's sad death were in 
full view. The mountain of Gilboa rose to the 
west, and the plain of Jezreel north of it. Toward 
the east the Jordan flowed in its sunken channel, 
and beyond it lay Jabesh Gilead in the rising foot- 
hills. 

1 I Sam. xxxi. 10. 
231 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



Saul's career as king of Israel had been a 
troubled one, largely because of his disobedient 
nature. When he heeded not the command- 
ment of the Lord in saving alive the sheep and 
cattle of the Amalekites and Agag, the king, then 
Samuel warned him of his final end, and left him, 
never to see him again, 1 until the fearful night, 
when the witch of Endor brought him up at 
Saul's request. 2 The conscience-stricken mon- 
arch seemed to realize his impending doom. 
For he cried out in a paroxysm of terror and 
agony, "I am sore distressed: for the Philistines 
make war against me, and God is departed from 
me, and answereth me no more." The reply of 
the disembodied spirit contained no comfort for 
the sin-burdened warrior. "To-morrow shalt 
thou and thy sons be with Me." 

And it was even so. The next day occurred a 
mighty battle in the plain of Jezreel. The forces 
of Israel were overwhelmed in disastrous defeat, 
and were pushed ever backward, toward the 
long range of Gilboa. Defeat turned to rout, 
and rout resulted in dire destruction. The slopes 
of Gilboa were strewn with Israel's dead, while 
the victorious Philistines pressed madly on, re- 
gardless of dead and dying trampled beneath 

1 I Sam. xv. 35. 3 1 Sam. xxviii. 7-25. 

232 



Bethshan and the Ignominy of Saul 

their feet. They slew Jonathan and his brothers, 
nor stopped to remove their bodies, but has- 
tened after the royal victim. A well-aimed ar- 
row pierced his armor, and his life-blood stained 
the ground. He called upon his armor-bearer to 
thrust him through, lest the enemy should do so, 
and gloat over their deed. But his servant was 
unwilling to lift the hand against his royal mas- 
ter, and Saul fell upon his own sword and per- 
ished. 

The Philistines pursued their advantage all that 
day, reserving till the morrow the barbarous proc- 
ess of stripping and mutilating the dead. They 
found Saul and his sons, lying where they had 
fallen, and secured his head and his armor as a 
ghastly trophy of victory. A great day of re- 
joicing was proclaimed and the idol temples 
were crowded. Saul's armor was placed in the 
" house of Ashteroth," while his headless body, 
with those of his sons, was hung in ignominy 
upon the walls of Bethshan, — the very walls, 
whose remains appear to-day high up on the 
great hill of Beisan t The Israelites, defeated and 
crushed, could not openly avenge this insult. 
They must endure in silence the greatest pos- 
sible disgrace to their nation. So the bodies of 
their monarch and his sons remained exposed to 

233 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

the taunts and jeers of the heathen Philistines, to 
the attacks of carrion crows, to the punishment 
of God in the elements. 

The news of this signal disaster spread through- 
out the land. Fleeing fugitives carried the word 
even to the camp of David, the warrior-poet, 
who gave expression to his unfeigned grief in 
that peerless utterance of loss, — the most exqui- 
site funeral ode ever penned: 

" Thy glory, O Israel, is slain upon thy high places ! 
How are the mighty fallen ! 
Tell it not in Gath, 

Publish it not in the streets of Ashkelon ; 
Lest the daughters of the Philistines rejoice, 
Lest the daughters of the uncircumcised triumph. 
Ye mountains of Gilboa, 

Let there be no dew nor rain upon you, neither fields 

of offerings : 

For there the shield of the mighty was vilely cast away, 
The shield of Saul, not anointed with oil. 
From the blood of the slain, from the fat of the mighty, 
The bow of Jonathan turned not back. 
And the sword of Saul returned not empty. 
Saul and Jonathan were lovely and pleasant in their 
lives, 

And in their death they were not divided; 
They were swifter than eagles, 
They were stronger than lions. 
Ye daughters of Israel, weep over Saul, 
Who clothed you in scarlet delicately, 
Who put ornaments of gold upon your apparel. 
How are the mighty fallen in the midst of the battle ! 
234 



Bethshan and the Ignominy of Saul 



Jonathan is slain upon thy high places. 

I am distressed for thee, my brother Jonathan : 

Very pleasant hast thou been unto me : 

Thy love to me was wonderful, 

Passing the love of women. 

How are the mighty fallen, 

And the weapons of war perished ! " 1 

But the tale of death and ignominy was carried 
to another quarter, where brave men promptly 
conceived a plan to mitigate, if not requite, the 
insult brought upon their people. 2 The inhabi- 
tants of Jabesh Gilead, across the Jordan from 
Bethshan, when they heard of Saul's disgrace, 
were reminded of the favor which he had done 
for them, almost forty years before, in saving 
them from the barbarity of Nahash, the Am- 
monite. Although forty years had elapsed, and 
doubtless all the "elders of Jabesh" had passed 
away, yet the tale of Saul's magnanimous ex- 
ploit had been handed on from old to young, 
until the day when the favor could be requited. 
That opportunity had come in the downfall of 
Israel and the ignominious exposure of Saul's 
body upon the walls of Bethshan. 

A band of young and valiant Jabeshites set out 
by night across the plain, forded the river, and 
stole up unawares to the ramparts of the Philis- 

1 2 Sam. i. 19-27. 2 1 g am> KXX \ t ^-i^. 

235 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 



tine city. Doubtless the heathen citizens were 
celebrating their victory in revelry and mirth, and 
the guards had relaxed their vigilance. The 
rushing of the waters in the stream below cov- 
ered the ascent of the daring rescuers. With 
great toil they labored up the almost inaccessible 
hillside, until they reached the point where the 
royal bodies were hanging in disgrace. Noise- 
lessly they lowered them and returned with their 
burden to their native town across the plain and 
river. There they burned the bodies in solemn 
assembly, and buried the bones in a decent man- 
ner under a large tree, and mourned for seven 
days. Thus did they repay the favor which Saul 
had rendered in the day of his power. 



236 



XXI 



THE END OF THE JOURNEY 

A Bedawy funeral saddened the thoughts of 
the travellers, as they left Beisan on their way to- 
ward Tiberias. Just outside the town, under a 
spreading oak-tree, a grave had been dug, and 
without any ceremony and scarce any one to 
mourn, those wandering sons of the desert had 
laid away a lifeless form. A few women sat 
near by, their heads bent, perhaps in grief, 
though what know they of grief or joy ? What 
feelings can such creatures entertain, whose lives 
are untouched by all that raises man above the 
beasts ? One of their number had come to " the 
end of the journey" of life, with no joyful pros- 
pect of a glad welcome at Home. He had known 
no home on earth, nor had any one been found 
to tell him of the heavenly mansions. 

How different was to be the ending of the 
other journey! The travellers with thankful 
hearts hastened on their way. They were glad 
in the retrospect of the great opportunity vouch- 
safed to them to see a historic land. They were 

237 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

joyful in the prospect of the expected "welcome 
home" from the lips of friends and loved ones, 
whom they had entrusted to the tender, watch- 
ful care of the all-loving Father. 

The Bedawin exist and die, the Christians live 
in the joys of earthly home and comforts, and 
await with trust the last summons, when they 
shall be welcomed to infinite joys in the heavenly 
palaces. The contrast brings its own lessons of 
faith and duty. The poor Bedawin and millions 
like them will never know of Christian hope, 
until they are told. "How shall they believe in 
Him of whom they have not heard ? and how 
shall they hear without a preacher? and how 
shall they preach except they be sent ? " 1 

The end of the journey is near at hand, and 
the story is soon told. Beisan with its many 
water-courses and green trees was left behind, 
and the travellers pushed on across a hot and 
dusty plain, uninteresting in its monotony. The 
road, however, was not devoid of interest his- 
torically. It is a great thoroughfare from the sea 
to the east. Many and various have been the 
travellers over its level course. Some day the 
monotony may be forgotten in the shriek of 
whistles and rumble of trains. For this is 

1 Rom. x. 1 4, 15. 
238 




MIDIAXITISH CAMELEERS 



The End of the Journey 

along the line of the projected railway. Geo- 
graphically this road deserves mention as lying 
six hundred feet below sea level. It was well 
for the tourists that the barrier mountains kept 
their place and restrained the waters of the sea. 
This road led down to the Jordan and the his- 
toric bridge. From there the river was followed 
past the confluence of the Yarmukto 'Abadeyeh, 
where shade trees offered a desirable place for 
lunch. Thence the way led past ruined bridges 
to the southern end of the lake. The next two 
hours sufficed to bring the travellers once more 
to Tiberias. 

On the following day the usual order of prog- 
ress was varied by a boat ride to the northern 
end of the lake. The water was calm and beau- 
tiful. Hardly a puff of wind stirred the lazy 
sails. The boatmen rowed the craft, which left 
its wake far to the rear. The passengers enjoyed 
the change from horseback and dry land to this 
easy and indolent method of advance. They 
read and chatted and studied the landscape from 
their moving view-point. 

The plain of Gennesaret was specially interest- 
ing, and behind it the rock-bound valley, where 
robber cave-dwellers once lived. They had long 
been a menace to the inhabitants of the fertile 

239 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

plain. Whenever danger approached, they would 
betake themselves to their caves high up in the 
cliff. It is more than a thousand feet high, and 
in many places is absolutely perpendicular. 
There the robbers had made an impregnable 
rocky fastness, seemingly unapproachable, — a 
network of caverns and passages in the face of 
the frowning bluff. It remained for Herod the 
Great to overcome and annihilate them. This he 
did by letting down soldiers in huge iron-bound 
boxes suspended by iron chains, and thus land- 
ing them at the entrance to the caves. The 
modern name of the valley, in complete contrast 
with its former character and reputation, is "the 
valley of doves." 

The travellers were carried by boat to a point 
on the northern shore of Galilee near the site of 
Capernaum. There they took a farewell dip in 
its cool, refreshing waters. When the baggage 
train overtook them, they began the ascent to 
the Jewish city of Safed. From a depression of 
six hundred and eighty-one feet below the level 
of the Mediterranean, they must rise to an eleva- 
tion of nearly two thousand eight hundred feet 
above it. 

Part way up the mountain-side is the "Khan 
Jubb Yusef," which is by Mohammedan tradition 

240 



The End of the Journey 

the well in which Joseph's brethren placed him, 
and from which they sold him to the Midianite 
traders. Here the tourists "sat down to eat 
bread," though not in the heartless way ascribed 
to Jacob's sons at the time of their cruel deed. 1 

Safed is a large and important city, renowned 
for its stout resistance to the Moslems in the time 
of the Crusades. It has suffered many times 
from destructive earthquakes. The most note- 
worthy feature of the place at present is the in- 
fluential Jewish colony situated there. Two 
centuries ago it was the seat of Jewish learning. 
Famous rabbis and other teachers gathered there, 
and as many as eighteen synagogues were found. 
The place also contained a printing-press. The 
Jews consider Safed as a sacred city, for they 
expect the Messiah to come from there. 

This polluted stream of rabbinical lore, how- 
ever, in no way affects the natural streams of 
pure, cold water, that burst forth in a great 
fountain below the town. It is called the 
"fountain of the olives." Here men and ani- 
mals drank freely, and rested under the shade of 
the olive-trees, before they started on to the end 
of the day's journey. They had still two hours 
to go, and the sun had nearly set. Nor was the 

1 Gen. xxxvii. 25. 
241 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

road one to be chosen for a night ride. It was 
very rough and stones abounded. At last they 
arrived in the thick darkness at Sifsaf, where 
they had chosen to spend the night. Camp was 
pitched on the threshing-floors to the west of the 
village. Here was supposed to be a fountain, 
but it was dry. It was fortunate that the animals 
had drunk freely at Safed, for they were destined 
to pass nearly twenty-four hours without water. 
Darkness permitted no glimpse of the surround- 
ings. The tents sheltered tired sleepers. The 
morning sun revealed the nature of their where- 
abouts. They were near to Mount Jermuk, the 
highest peak west of the Jordan. 

The way lay along a plain for a time, then 
across rolling country, until the village of Kefr 
Bir'im was reached. A short halt was made to 
examine the interesting ruins of an ancient Jew- 
ish synagogue, used now as a dwelling-house. 
Kefr Bir'im has the distinction (by tradition) of 
being the burial-place of the judge Barak and the 
prophet Obadiah. 

A short ride further brought the party within 
the bounds of the American Mission, where the 
tour may be said to have finished. Each mem- 
ber of the expedition returned to his work by 
shortest routes, regretting that the parting-time 

242 



The End of the Journey 



had come, yet desirous of taking up his duties 
afresh in the added vigor acquired. 

Thus ended an eventful journey, full of inter- 
est, biblical, historical, geographical, sociological 
and religious. There remains now but to state a 
few general impressions derived from the trip as 
a whole. 



243 



CONCLUSION 



CONTRASTS AND HOPES 

During an absence of twenty-three days, 
within which a large area of interesting territory 
had been encompassed, one word was prominent 
in the thoughts of the travellers, as descriptive of 
the trip. That word was "contrast." The ex- 
periences had been exceptionally diverse in many 
lines. 

On the one side the eastern desert had been all 
but reached, on the other the horses' feet had 
been bathed in the waters of the "Great Sea." 
The travellers had reached an altitude of three 
thousand feet or more, and had crossed the Jor- 
dan where it ran fully eight hundred feet below 
the level of the Mediterranean. 

The heat during the daytime had been intense 
and almost unbearable, while the nights were 
comfortably cool. 

All the world had contributed to the tourists' 
larder. They had had beef from America, jam 
from England, sardines from France, maccaroni 
from Italy, butter from Denmark, tea from China, 

244 



Conclusion — Contrasts and Hopes 

coffee from Arabia, curry from India, rice from 
Egypt, bread from Tiberias, and partridge from 
the ruins of Jerash. 

The water supply had been as varied as the 
food. Fountains, rivers, pools, and conduits had 
furnished large quantities of the liquid, drunk 
from glasses, cups, pottery jugs and jars, bottles, 
tin cans, hands, and from the original sources 
directly. 

The travellers had run the risk of robbers by 
day and petty thieves by night, and had returned 
without a single loss. 

Possibly some may question the legitimacy and 
propriety of a trip in regions where entrance is 
guarded by a useless application to the Porte. 
No laws, however, were broken in so doing, 
and, per contra, treaty rights should properly 
secure all foreign travellers from annoyance from 
any source, — governmental or personal. As it 
was, the tourists merely ran the risk of being 
sent back, provided they ventured into the im- 
mediate precincts of some overzealous official. 
This did not happen. 

This expedition, too, revealed the existence 
of much virgin soil for missionary effort. No 
contrasts were more striking than those observed 
between towns where schools and churches had 

245 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

turned the thoughts and aspirations toward higher 
things, and villages whose inhabitants know 
nothing of and care nothing for the fruits of 
Christianity. Little do the dwellers in Jaulan and 
the other East-Jordan districts realize their privi- 
leges as members of a race above the brute crea- 
tion. Christianity, which has made possible oc- 
cidental civilization, must touch these eastern 
lands in its purity. 

Nor may it be the effete, decaying Christianity 
(so-called) of the oriental church. The results of 
this form of religion are manifest, — deadening of 
all spiritual aspirations, and temporal ascendency 
of the clergy. The land is cursed with politics. 
The various sects of the church are more political 
than theological, and each one strives for its own 
advancement in power at the expense of the 
others and to the detriment of real church life 
and growth. "The whole head is sick, and the 
whole heart faint." Political civilization has been 
tried and "found wanting." Political religion 
has kept the whole country at a low ebb of men- 
tal, moral and spiritual attainment. 

The trans-Jordanic regions will remain in gross 
darkness, if left to the ministrations of the church 
west of the river. No; the prevailing oriental 
Christianity of the present time must be su- 

246 



Conclusion — Contrasts and Hopes 

perseded, even as the misguided efforts of the Cru- 
saders came to an end. 

There is needed the infusion of a regenerating 
influence entirely foreign to the politico-supersti- 
tious fabric now investing the land. This influ- 
ence must be sought from above, — sent down in 
the Word of God, exemplified in the lives of 
God's servants. The ignorance of the ages must 
be overcome by a wholesome, effective educa- 
tional and evangelizing system based upon the 
Bible. Only thus may the land make permanent 
advance. 

The kingdom of God is a plant of slow growth. 
But it is surely blossoming out into the perfect 
fruition born of divinity. "One day is with the 
Lord as a thousand years, and a thousand years 
as one day." The spiritual regeneration of Syria 
and Palestine is but a part of the divine plan. 
Consider the reach of Christ's undertaking, — a 
new moral creation of the whole race, and the 
restoration of it to God in the grand unity of a 
spiritual kingdom. No such infinite and all-em- 
bracing purpose ever entered the mind of mortal 
man. The potentates of earth have been content 
to covet limited power for personal ends. The 
Holy Land, small as it is, has been the cause of 
endless strife. Man has tried in every way, — by 

247 



Forbidden Paths in the Land of Og 

force, by strategy, by human wisdom, by super- 
stitious zeal, — to protract his power in this 
coveted land. Where man has failed, has God 
also failed ? The answer may be found in Christ's 
saying, "The Kingdom of God is within you." 1 
God's rule is spiritual. He requires neither 
Rome's thundering legions, nor the knighted 
chivalry of Europe; neither mounted troops, nor 
turreted castles, to accomplish His purpose. 
When He said to Abram, "In thee shall all fami- 
lies of the earth be blessed," He knew that the 
divine purpose would be fulfilled, despite the 
plans of passing men. It is as if God would 
teach the lesson that religion and true power are 
not connected with time and place. The King- 
dom of God moves on down the ages, independ- 
ent of man's petty plans, and is surely transform- 
ing "the kingdoms of this world," "not by 
might, nor by power, but by My spirit, saith the 
Lord of hosts," until, in God's own time, they 
shall all "become the kingdom of our Lord and of 
His Christ." 

May the time be near at hand, when tourists in 
the East-Jordan districts shall find schools instead 
of rude caves, and churches in the place where 
the village dance is now held. May they see the 

1 Luke xvii. 21. 
248 



Conclusion — Contrasts and Hopes 



visible triumph of Christianity over degrading 
Mohammedanism, and a vigorous western belief 
in Christ supplanting the ignorant, superstitious 
worship of the virgin. 

And now permit the last word to be one of 
good cheer. Despite all untoward circumstances, 
the " Land of Og " is a delightsome land, teeming 
with recollections of historic interest, and he is a 
fortunate man who is permitted to traverse in 
safety its "Forbidden Paths." 



THE END. 



249 



Scripture References 



fxTWirsiTc; 


PAGE 


"NTttmrttpq 

ASS \J IVi 13 Hi XV D 


PAGE 


TTTFir'ITQ 
J U U\jJl.o 


PAGE 


t t • Tr» 


2l8 


21 : 35 


45 


4 • *9 


left 
*5° 


*4 : 5 


°3 


33 ; 34-52 


5° 


ft • T J? 




15: 19-21 


44 


35 : XI » 12 


77 


V 5 


220 


21 : 25 


211 






: au 


220 


2 4 : I 4-^7 


r 57 


UEUT. 




II: I 


147 


24 * II 


I5 5 




44 


11 • 3» 5 

12 : I— 


I24 


• ly — 


211 




21 1 


221 


30 : 25 


166 


1 : I— 1 


8i 


20 : I 


1A.2 


31: 4 


166 


3> 5 


75 


21 : 8 


142 


3 1 : 34, 35 


I6 7 


3: 11 




1 Sam. 
II : 1 

26 : 12 
26: 20 
28 : 7-25 
31: 10 
3i: 7-J3 

2 Sam. 




31: 49 
32: 1 

32: 3 
32 : 10 
33= 8-1 1 
33: 12-17 

37: 25 


168 
I69 
I70 
218 

173 
174 
I46 
24I 


3: 25 
4*. 43 
6 : 14 
24: 6 
32: 14 

Joshua 

3: 15 
4: 20 


218 

200 

44 
21 

54 

216 
218 


143 

232 

208 
31 

232 
231 
235 


Exodus 




9: 2 


44 


1: 19-27 


235 




44 


12: 4 


83 


14 : 26 


151 




156 


13: 12 


83 


15 : etc. 


149 


15: 24 


211 


13: 30 


75 


15 : 18 


149 


17 : I, 2 


211 


17: I 


57 


18: 5 


149 


23 : 25 


211 


Judges 




18: 8 
18: 18 


r 5o 
I 5 I 


Numbers 




1 : 7 


44 


18: 21 


151 


13: 27 


156 


1: 27 


230 


18: 32 


152 


21 : 22 


21 


2 : 28, 29 


219 


19: 18, 31 


223 


21 : 33 


45 


3 : 28, 29 


221 


20 : 16-22 


32 



251 



Scripture References 



i Kings 


PAGE 


ECCLES. 


PAGE 


Matt. 


PAGE 


4 : 12 


23O 


1 z , 


t eft 
I5O 


24 : 41 


3 5 


4: 13 


200 










4 : 22—28 


200 


Song 




Mark 




7 : 46, 47 


222 


1 : 5 


63 


I : 29 


rtO 
1 IO 


17 : I 


[41 






1 ; 35-3 8 


117 


17 : 4, 6 


I4I 


ISAIAH 




4 ' 39 


I20 


19: 19 


97 


2 : 13 


J 45 


5 : 1 


104 


i9 : I 9 -21 


226 


55 : 1 


21 1 


5 • i — 20 


I0 5 


20 : 28—42 


201 




14: 13 


x 57 


20 : 34 


202 


_ 

J ER, 




16 : 15 


120 


21 : 20 


141 


8 : 22 






21 : 49 


201 


11 : 5 


l 5 6 


Luke 




22 : 2 


202 




3 : 1 


5 2 


22 : 17 


204 


jbZEK, 




4 : 38, 39 


IIS 






27 : 6 


145 


8: 2 


"5 


2 Kings 




39: H 


54 


»: 20-39 


105 


2: i-ii 


223 






8: 37 


109 


5: 14 


223 


Daniel 




8 : 41, etc. 


118 


6: 1-7 


222 


1 : 12 


174 


10: 13 


119 


8 : 28, etc. 


204 




17 : 21 


248 


15 : 29 


32 


Amos 




21 : 20-24 


129 


16: 9 


46 


6: 12 


209 


John 
4 : 14, 15 




24: 14 


46 


Zech. 




212 


1 Chron. 




II : 2 


145 


4: 46-53 


118 


5 : 26 
12: 15 


46 
217 


Matt. 
3: 12 


223 


6 : 26, etc. 
7: 37 


118 
212 


Job 
6: 15-18 
22: 7 


210 
211 


3 ' 12 

• 5 *J 
8: 28-34 


228 
118 

:?§ 

us 
119 
n6 

"5 
119 


Romans 
IO : 14, 15 


238 


Psalms 
22: 12 
23: 2 

ECCLES. 


54 
211 


9': 20 

9 : 32, 33 
11: 23 
13: 1-23 
15: 39 
18: 3 


James 
2: 3 

Rev. 

22: X 


64 
212 


12: 4 


38 


23: 38 


131 







252 



Index 



Abadeyeh, lunch at, 239. 
Abel Beth-Maacheh, site of, 
32. 

Abel Meholeh, Elisha's birth- 
place, 226. 

Abila, Abil, city of Decapolis, 
93- 

Absalom, revolt, 149; death, 

Acqueduct of Gadara, 1 xo. 

Acre, surrendered by Cru- 
saders, 48. 

Ahab, history, 201 ; and Jehosh- 
aphat, 202 ; death, 203. 

Ain Jenneh, near Jerash, 164. . 

Ain Kunyeh, camp at, 33; 
burned, 37. 

Ajlun, district, situation, 52; 
described, 56 ; town, camp at, 

Alexander the Great, enters 
land, 48. 

Ameer Muhammed Fa'our, 61; 
his home, 61 ; his cattle, 65. 

Ameery, an Arab princess, 62. 

Anjara, lunch at, 210. 

Aphek, Ahab's victory at, 201. 

Arabs, enter land, 47, 49; 
changes in tribes, 48 ; tribe 
of Fudl, (situation, 60; en- 
campment, 61; horses, 63); 
hospitality of, 68 ; coffee, 68 ; 
unromantic life, 70; laziness 
of, 213. 

Ashteroth Karnaim, site of, 
Assyrians capture land, 46. 



Bag, the, 23. 

Balm of Gilead, 57. 

Banias, fountain of, 33 ; temple 
of Pan, 33; site of Csesarea 
Philippi, 40. 

Baptism of Christ, 224. 

Barak, burial-place of, 242. 

Barzillai, David's friend, 223. 

Basalt district, 54. 

Bash an, ruled by Og, 15 ; 
historic interest of, 16 ; travel- 
ling in, 17 ; conquest of, 45 ; 
to Manasseh, 45 ; names of, 
52; boundaries of, 50; extent 
of, 51 ; division of 52 Greek 
names, 52 ; Arabic names, 
52; once densely inhabited, 
75- 

Bedawin, visited, 63 ; cattle 
raiders, 136, 140; in Ghor, 
213; laziness of, 213; food 
of, 214; funeral, 237; ex- 
istence, 238. 

Beisan, described, 227; camp 
at, 228 ; site of Bethshan and 
Scythopolis, 230 ; destroyed 
by Saladin, 230 ; Saul's death 
near, 231; ignominy of Saul 
at, 235. 

Bel voir castle, 160. 

Bethsaida, prophecy concern- 
ing, 119. 

Bethshan, Beisan, history, 
230; citadel of, 231; Jabesh 
Gileadites at, 235. 

Blood feuds, 77 ; guide involved 
in, 87. 



Index 



Boat ride, on Galilee, 240. 
Brass foundry, near Jordan, 222. 
Bread, at Gadara, 106. 
Bridge, Roman, at Rukkad 

river, 74; el Mijamia, 216. 
Byzantine rulers, 47. 



Cesarea Philippi, Banias, 40. 
Cameleers, Midianite, 146. 
Cans, 23, 29. 

Capernaum, Christ's home in, 
117; miracles in, 1 18 ; proph- 
ecy concerning, 1 19; site of, 
240. 

Captivity, the, 45. 
Carriage road, Jewish, 73. 
Castle, Banias, 41 ; Tiberias, 

121; Rubud, 159; Belvoir, 

160. 

Cattle raiders, 136, 140. 

Cave-Odwellers, robbers, 240. 

Chederlaomer, 83. 

Children of Israel, take Bashan, 
45 ; nomadic, 77 ; cross Jor- 
dan, 218. 

Chorazin, prophecy concern- 
ing, 119. 

Chosroes II., Persian monarch, 
47- 

Church, the Oriental, impotent, 
249. 

Circassians, villages of, 72; at 

Jerash, 184. 
Cities of refuge, 78. 
Coffee, Arab, 68. 
Contrasts, 244. 
Cook's parties, 21. 
Cook, the, described, 27 ; ill, 229. 
Counting in pairs, 67. 
Country of the Gadarenes, 104, 

109. 

Crater peaks, 53. 
Crusaders, in Syria, 47; con- 
quered, 162. 
Customs, Arabic, 67. 



Dagon worship at Bethshan, 
230. 

Dance at Golan, 81. 

David, a hunter, 30; flees from 

Absalom, 149, 223; informed 

of Absalom's death, 152; 

takes Saul : s jug, 208; mourns 

for Saul, 234. 
Dead Sea, depression of, 215. 
Decapolis, Ajhin, 56 ; Scythop- 

olis, capital of, 230. 
Destruction of Jerusalem, 129. 
Dolmeus, tombs, described, 75. 
Dream of Gerasa, 195. 
Drinking, like a dog, 220. 
Druze Mountains, eastern 

boundary of Bashan, 51 ; 

lawless district, 55. 
Druzes, uprising, 37 ; in Hauran, 

55- 

Duties of missionaries, 19. 

Edrei, battle at, 45 ; capital of 
Bashan, 83. 

Ehud, at Jordan, 219. 

Elijah, home of, 141 ; and 
Ahab, 201 ; ascension of, 223. 

Elisha, and Elijah, 223; birth- 
place, 226. 

El Merkez, in Hauran, 83. 

Embrace, oriental, 172. 

Encampment of Arabs, 63. 

Equipment for trip, 22. 

Esau, and Jacob, 169. 

Ferryboat, used by David, 
223. 

Fig orchard, at Beisan, 229. 
Ford, at Yarmuk, 88, 134; at 

Jabbok, 171 ; at Jordan, 223. 
Forests of Gilead, 145. 
Fountain of the Olives, 241. 
Funeral, a diversion, 70; 

David's ode, 234 ; a Bedawy, 

237- 



Index 



GADARA, aqueduct to, 99; 
described, 103 ; not site of 
miracle, 105 ; necropolis of, 
106 ; bread at, 106 ; Um 
Keis, 107 ; hot springs of, 
no ; siege of, 128. 

Gadarenes, country of the, 104, 
105. 

Galilee, Sea of, 120 ; scene 
of Christ's peaceful works, 
120; depression of, 215; 
boat ride on, 240. 

Gamala, seige of, 127. 

Gazelles, near Galilee, 134. 

Gennesaret, plain of, 115; 
robbers near, 239. 

Gerasa, Jerash, 178. 

Gersa, scene of miracle of 
swine, 109. 

Ghor, the, part of Ajlun, 52; 
camp in, 213; described, 213 ; 
Lot chose the, 213; Bedawin 
of, 213; depression of, 215; 
west side of, 239. 

Gideon, at Jordan, 219; men 
drink like dogs, 220. 

Gifts, large, 173; coldly re- 
ceived, 173; repaid, 174. 

Gilboa, mount, from Beisan, 
232; Saul's death at, 233. 

Gilead, Ajlun, 52, 57; balm 
of, 57; described, 140; home 
of Elijah, 141 ; retreat of 
David, 149. 

Golan, city of refuge, 72; de- 
scribed, 77; degenerated, 79; 
Jewish settlement at, 79 ; 
Sahem ej Jaulan, 80; status 
of inhabitants, 81; dance at, 81. 

Government, no permissions, 
20 ; Lebanon, 49 ; Hauran, 
83 ; criticised, 84. 

Gully, dangerous, 207. 

Hauran, situation, 54; de- 
scribed, 55. 



Heat, 73, 100. 

Hebras, near Gadara, 99. 

Helaweh, site of Jabesh Gil- 
ead, 204. 

Heraclius, Byzantine ruler, 47. 

Hermon, mount, source of 
Jordan, 33. 

Herod, rulers, 47 ; the Great, 
52; and robbers, 240. 

Hieromax, river, Yarmuk, 
boundary, 52; battle of, 100; 
hot springs of, no. 

Hiram, king of Tyre, 222. 

Hospital, Tiberias, 121. 

Hospitality, Arab, 68. 

Hot springs, Hieromax, 1 10. 

Hunting, legitimate, 30. 

I JON, site of, 32. 
Impedimenta, 22. 
Invasion of Palestine, 126. 
Irade, Imperial, 20. 
Isaac, courtship, 157. 
Israelites take Bashan, 45; 

nomadic, 77 ; cross Jordan, 

217. 
Itinerary, 59. 

Jabbok, southern boundary of 
Bashan, 51 ; ford of, 171. 

Jabesh Gilead, site of, 142, 
204; history of, 142; from 
Beisan, 235 ; requites Saul's 
favor, 236 ; Saul buried at, 
236. 

Jacob, at Mizpah, 166; and 
Esau, 170; wrestling, 171. 

Jars, pottery, 157. 

Jaulan, situation, 52; de- 
scribed, 53; entered, 60; 
inhabitants of, 60. 

Jehoshaphat, and Ahab, 202 ; 
in battle, 203. 

Jehu, 204. 

Jephthah, vow, 147 ; Shibboleth, 
221. 



Index 



Jerash, first view of, 176; 
Gerasa, 178; history, 1 7 8 ; built 
by slaves, 179; theatre, camp, 
180; temple, 181 ; avenue, 
183; Circassians at, 184; 
natural decay of, 186; an- 
cient splendor of, 189; night 
in vault at, 193. 

Jermuk, mount, situation, 242. 

Jerusalem, destroyed by Neb- 
uchadnezzar, 46 j by Titus, 
129. 

Jesus Christ, busy, 128; home 
at Capernaum, 117; miracles, 
ilSj prophesied destruction 
of Jerusalem, 128; baptized, 
224. 

Jews, settlement at Golan, 79; 
at Tiberias, 122; at Safed, 
240 ; synagogue at Kefr 
Bir'im, 242. 

Jezreel, battle of, 232. 

JlLLEN, at Yarmuk, 87. 

Job, birthplace, 83. 

John Baptist, a typical, 135 ; and 
Christ, 224. 

Jordan, source, 33, 51; west- 
ern boundary of Bashan, 51 ; 
shallow at exit, 133; de- 
pression of, 215; described, 
215 ; three banks, 216 ; 
soldiers swam it, 217; river 
of poetry, 217; geographical 
boundary, 218; Biblical ref- 
erences, 218; two institutions 
near, 222 ; lunch at, 225. 

Joseph, sold, 146 ; well of, 240. 

Josephus, historian, 127. 

Jotapata, siege of, 126. 

Judeideh, rendezvous, 22 ; Arab 
boys in school at, 61 ; mer- 
chants, 80, 227. 

Kefr Abil, near Jabesh Gilead, 
141. 

Kefr Bir'im, synagogue at, 242. 



Kefrenjy, council at, 205. 
Keith, extracts from book by, 
186. 

Khan Jubb Yusef, 240. 
Kingdom of God, 247. 

Laban, and Jacob, 166. 
Lava district, 57. 
Lebanon government, 49. 
Leben, milk, 156. 
Legitimacy of trip, 245. 
Limestone, in Ajlun, 58. 
Lot, chose Ghor, 213. 
Lynch, Lieut., on Jordan, 215. 

Maccabees, 46. 
Magdala, situation, 115. 
Mahanaim, David's retreat, 

149 ; Jacob and angels, 1 69. 
Manasseh, occupy Bashan, 45. 
Man carrying water jar, 157. 
Martyrs, 197. 

Mary, the Magdalene, 115. 
Mejdel, situation, 35 ; first 

visit, 35 ; described, 35 ; 

Druze uprising, 37; second 

visit, 35. 
Merom, waters of, level of, 

2I 5- 

Mezarib near Golan, 86. 
Midianite cameleers, 146. 
Milk, leben, 156. 
Millstone, 36. 

Miracles, of swine, 105, 109; in 
Capernaum, 118. 

Missionaries, duties, 19; ad- 
vantages, 23 ; described, 30 ; 
representatives of conquering 
power, 163; work needed, 
248. 

Mizpah, site at Sftf, 165 ; mean- 
ing, 165 ; treaty at, 168; 
watchword, 168. 

Mountains of Syria treeless, 143. 

Mule load, how much, 24. 

Muleteers, described, 25 ; thirsty, 
208. 



Index 



Naaman, route of to Samaria, 
39 ; dipped in Jordan, 222. 

Napoleon, enters Syria, 48. 

Necropolis of Gadara, 105. 

Nero, orders invasion of Pales- 
tine, 125. 

Oak forests, 145. 

Obadiab, burial-place, 242. 

Og, bedstead, 15 ; exclusiveness, ' 
15; kingdom, 15, 16; de- 
feated, 45. 

Olives, camp under, 154; foun- 
tain of the, 216. 

Oriental church, impotent, 246. 

Outfit, for trip, 22. 

Palestine, invasion of, 125. 

Pan, temple of, 33. 

Parable of sower, 116. 

Partridges, 3 1 ; hunt, 96. 

Pasture land, Jaulan, 53. 

Pella, historic, 125 ; retreat of 
Christians, 132; situation, 
132 ; hidden, 137 ; Tubakat 
Fahl, 137; described, 137; 
battle of, 137. 

Penuel, and Gideon, 221. 

Permission for trip, none, 20. 

" Personally conducted," 21. 

Philistines defeat Saul, 233. 

Picnic in Gilead, 146. 

Ploughing, 97, 226. 

Prophecy of destruction of Jeru- 
salem, 128. 

Protestant merchant at Beisan, 
227. 

Proverb, Arabic, 21. 
Public weigher, 24. 

Raiders, cattle, 136, 140. 
Railroad, Beirut-Damascus, 56 ; 

Haifa-Damascus, 56, 238. 
Rain, at Jerash, 191. 



Ramoth Gilead, site of, 200 ; 
city of refuge, 200; commis- 
sariat station, 200 ; Ahab's 
death at, 203; Jehoram and 
Jehu, 204. 

Rebekah, courtship of, 158. 

Refuge, cities of, 77. 

Reimun, Ramoth Gilead, 200 ; 
situation, 200. 

Retreat of Christians, Pella, 132. 

Revolt of Absalom, 149. 

Ride by boat on Galilee, 240. 

Road, Jewish, 73; new, 153; 
Roman, 164; lost, 206. 

Robber cave-dwellers, 240. 

Rubud castle, 159. 

RUKKAD RIVER, 74. 

Sabbath, at Mejdel, 35; at 
Galilee, 112. 

Safed, situation, 240; de- 
scribed, 241 ; fountain of 
Olives near, 241. 

Sahem ej Jaulan, Golan, 80. 

Saladin, conquered Beisan, 230. 

Samuel and Saul, 232. 

Saracens, enter land, 47 ; con- 
quer Crusaders, 48. 

Saul, saves Jabesh Gilead, 143 ; 
water-jug stolen, 208; death, 
233 ; death requited, 236 ; 
buried, 236. 

SCYTHOPOLIS, Beisan, 230 ; 
capital of Decapolis, 230; 
destroyed by Saladin, 230. 

Seminary, theological, 222. 

Sheikh, of Golan, 86 ; of Pella, 

'35> 139. 
Shibboleth, spoken at Jordan, 
221. 

Sifsaf, camp at, 242. 
Sihon, king of Amorites, 44. 
Sinister faces, 143. 
Solomon, daily menu, 200; 

Bethshan in his kingdom, 

230. 



Index 



Sower, parable of, 116. 
Springs, hot, of Hieromax, 1 10. 
Stones, abound, 54 ; myth 

about, 54. 
Succoth, and Gideon, 221. 
Suf, situation, 165 ; Mizpah, 

165. 

Sultan, fig orchard of, 229. 
Synagogue at Kefr Bir'im, 242. 
Syria, became Roman province, . 
47- 

Syrian sun, 101. 

Tariche^e, siege of, 127; site 

of, 133- 
Taxes, government, 55. 
Telegraph line passed, 164. 
Tell Abu Nida, crater cone, 

53; El Faras, crater cone, 

53- 

Temple, Pan, at Banias, 33; 
Jerash, 176. 

Theatre, Gadara, 104; Jerash, 
180; Beisan, 228. 

Theological Seminary, 222. 

Threshing floors, 228. 

Tiberias, camp at, 112; an- 
cient city, 114; hospital at, 
121 ; Jews at, 122; music at, 
123; surrendered to Titus, 
127. 

Titus, destroyed Jerusalem, 130. 
Tob, land of, 124. 
Tombs, Gadara, 106. 
Transfiguration, the, 41. 



Tobakat Fahl, Pella, 136; 

described, 137. 
Turks gain ascendency, 48. 

Um Keis, Gadara, 107 ; foun- 
tain at, 107. 

Valley, camp in, 1 1 1 ; of 

Doves, 240. 
Vespasian, subdues Palestine, 

126. 

View, at Jillen, 87 ; at Gadara, 
103; from Rubud castle, 160; 
above Jordan plain, 205 ; 
from Beisan, 226. 

Vow of Jephthah, 147. 

Watch, at night, 94 ; at Jerash, 
186. 

Water, carrier at Ajlun, 157; 

courses dry, 207; jar, 156; 

seller, 99; supply, 245. 
Waters of Merom, level of, 

215. 

Weigher, public, 24. 
Woman's work, 156. 

Yabis river, near Jabesh 

Gilead, 142. 
Yarmuk river, boundary, 52; 

view, 88; battle of, 100; 

ford at, 89, 134. 

ZEIZUN, falls of, 92. 



258 



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